MKD Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 im needing to weld/braze a few things soon, but ive never learnt to weld... I can braze with OA, but im wondering if anyone has had any experience with silver soldered joints? google + youtube shows a few vids with SSF6 silver solder and I hear its pretty strong. im going to be welding/brazing a few bits & pieces on a motorbike/scooter so loads shouldn't be too high on the joints. and...does anyone know if you can silver solder braze with butane? or whats the best/cheapest/easiest gas to get hold of? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 braze is actually stronger then welding, because it doesn't change the metals molecular structure , it puts less stress in the joint and far les heat which all helps to keep as minimal stress in the joint as possible . . it wont crack as easily and generally is a very good repair, but have to remember you cant weld on top on braze so if you need to do serious repair later on then it can become an issue, I like to braze most things but the down side is I don't have a OA at home so I end up mig/tig welding everything . braze is insanely strong in the right circumstances what are you thnking of doing ? got any pictures of your intended repairs/modifications 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 You can silver solder (it's really just brazing with a different filler)* with butane if the part is small enough, it's what jewelers use. Otherwise look at oxy-propane or compressed air-propane as a slightly cheaper than OA. Not sure why you would silver braze over regular though? If you are only working with steel anyway. I prefer to weld most things as then you don't have to be so fussy about getting nice fits. *you can get electrical solder with a silver content, pretty much works like higher temp lead-free solder, but I'm presuming we are talking about silver brazing here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 At my old work we built alot of motorcycle frames, they were always brazed, the frames with cast lugs that we repaired were silver soldered (easyflow) its strong as hell, I easyflowed the hex nuts on to my cylinder head through bolts on my BSA, they haven't failed yet. you do need to make sure the parts are very clean. I use oxyacetylene I have an old acetylene producer, only have to fill my oxy cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Fuck. you produce acetylene? my mind ls blown. Google here I come edit. did some reading. it sounds like danger multiplied by danger 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Ok cool, so its strong enough for sure. Looking at making some custom hardtail struts for a fr50 suzuki, most likely from bit and pieces round the shop. Brass to steel and steel/brass to chrome vanaduim? Should work hopefully. Just dont have access to OA otherwise id probably use that. So you reckon a propane torch like a plumbers benzomatic etc or butane would work? Ill Just try it i guess, see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Ok cool, so its strong enough for sure. Looking at making some custom hardtail struts for a fr50 suzuki, most likely from bit and pieces round the shop. Brass to steel and steel/brass to chrome vanaduim? Should work hopefully. Just dont have access to OA otherwise id probably use that. So you reckon a propane torch like a plumbers benzomatic etc or butane would work? Ill Just try it i guess, see what happens I don't think you would get a cet if your frame is half welded and brazed, its only bikes that were produced from fractory with brazed frames that will pass. 1.6mm Chromoly, or 3.2mm mild steel for cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Nah not for a cert, and theyre parts im going to be making to put in place of factory parts, so can swap back if i ever need to anyway. 50cc, so no wofs anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Every thing will be cool then, you could use the legs off an old chair 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 If its an issue I'd just take the bits to get welded properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 Every thing will be cool then, you could use the legs off an old chair but, if youre worried, the chromoly will be about 6-8mm and the mild steel around 6mm. far beefier than the stock pressed sheetmetal framed original. I do have some nice chairlegs around though, good suggestion =P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattscort Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I've used silver solder to repair pipework and join dissimilar shit together and its always the metal around it that deforms later. I usually use a small benz-o-matic torch with yellow gas cylinder, MAP. Blue works too but we have MAP at work most of the time. Works mint just gotta remember where you want the heat. Somtimes I braze shit but usually can't be fucked getting oa out when silver solder is so easy. But I am not a plumber so I could be doing this wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattscort Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Use wooden chairlegs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZford Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 High silver brazing is what we do when making hydraulic fittings. Damn that stuffs expensive though but good. But not what you want for your task at hand by the sounds of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Can steel on steel be brazed together? If it can be what sort of gap is required? What do you use as flux/filler, should just do a google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 yup steel to steel can. tighter gaps is better. i havent really tried with big gaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 tighter gaps is better. This is the truth . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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