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Need a good auto sparky in west/north Auckland.


z18et1200coupe

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Hey team. 

I'm after a good auto sparky in north/west Auckland. I live in whenuapai but I don't mind towing it half an hour or so to somewhere decent.

Any suggestions on a good place would be rad! I'm new to Auckland so I'm not sure where to go.

 

My problem;

 

I put some new coils into my Datto 1200 (CA18det engine) because the factory ones suck. I put in some lexus coils and wired it all up. When I first started it, it ran sweet for about 10 seconds, then cut out completely. Then when I tried starting it, it would only run on 2 cylinders. Then after trying to figure out the problem, It wouldn't run at all.

 

I sent the ECU (megasquirt) to Jared in Tauranga for him to check it, and it turned out sweet but My coils had pooed themselves. So I got some more coils, chucked the ECU and the new coils in, gave it a crank.... and nothing.

 

I'm quietly chipping away at little fault finding jobs but nothing seems to be working. 

 

Since it initially started and ran fine, I think the wiring is fine, But I'm not sure could have crapped out, I think I may have touched a couple of wires together coming out of the ecu plug. Maybe it stuffed the resistors for the low imp injectors?

 

Any help would be appreciated! 

 

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go and see Nick at Ron Wood electrical, tell him i sent you. he's in point chev. talk to him about it and he may know whats wrong and tell you how to fix it or he may come out to your place and fix it there. 

anyway, have a yarn to Nick. 

 

Ron Wood's,

8464410

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Coil settings may be wrong in the config. Dependent if they go high to fire or low to fire. if they are backwards you will either burn out the ignitor or coil. what ever wants to go first if the ignition cct isnt fused well enough. I can do you something but I work from home after my day job.

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The spark dwell settings are set up correctly so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Tried to figure out what the problem is yesterday with Chris R. It has spark and fuel, but too much fuel. It would soak the plugs after a bit of cranking. When we pulled the fuel pump fuse it wanted to run after a bit of cranking.. So maybe the fuel pressure reg is stuffed? We didn't have a gauge to chuck in and see if it was getting the right pressure though.

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The spark dwell settings are set up correctly so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Tried to figure out what the problem is yesterday with Chris R. It has spark and fuel, but too much fuel. It would soak the plugs after a bit of cranking. When we pulled the fuel pump fuse it wanted to run after a bit of cranking.. So maybe the fuel pressure reg is stuffed? We didn't have a gauge to chuck in and see if it was getting the right pressure though.

Is the coolent temp sensor ok?

 

Does it soak all the plugs or just 1?

 

pull the plugs to the injectors and crank it over you may have a leaking injector.

 

Have you had it running fine through the rev range before hand?

 

You sure its not just weak spark ie looks ok out of cylinder but no go when in?

 

Also the timing hasent skipped or you havent wired the coils up wrong? 

 

lol so many things it could be 

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Coolent temp sensor was ok, Was soaking all the plugs. pulled all the injector plugs and it eventually cleared (plugs dry). it wasnt running before I saw it. Spark looked healthy enough which means coils should be wired correctly. 

 

yes but wired in the correct firing order. if not then it will soak the plugs and never run might back fire tho lol.

 

also check cranking settings you should set flood clear at around 70% tps value. so if you are still finding it hard to start you can jam your foot down and crank it over.

 

Maby trim back the fuel table 10 points and see if that helps.

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yes but wired in the correct firing order. if not then it will soak the plugs and never run might back fire tho lol.

 

also check cranking settings you should set flood clear at around 70% tps value. so if you are still finding it hard to start you can jam your foot down and crank it over.

 

Maby trim back the fuel table 10 points and see if that helps.

 

It started up and ran fine when I first put the new coils in, so they are in the correct order. Yeah I was just told about the floor clear the other day, its a handy feature.

I don't want to fiddle with the mixtures as its been tuned and they should be fine. The problem shouldn't be in the tune.

 

I'm having a little bit of trouble connecting my laptop the the Megasquirt, once I've got that connected up I'll be able to check that the ECU is not at fault.. If the ECU checks out ok then I'll start looking at some other possibilities.

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It started up and ran fine when I first put the new coils in, so they are in the correct order. Yeah I was just told about the floor clear the other day, its a handy feature.

I don't want to fiddle with the mixtures as its been tuned and they should be fine. The problem shouldn't be in the tune.

 

I'm having a little bit of trouble connecting my laptop the the Megasquirt, once I've got that connected up I'll be able to check that the ECU is not at fault.. If the ECU checks out ok then I'll start looking at some other possibilities.

What problems are you having? signiture mismatch?

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What problems are you having? signiture mismatch?

 

My laptop died a while ago and I lost everything on it. I'm not sure what drivers I need for the serial to USB cable. If I just plug in the cable windows is ment to download it automatically but it doesn't for some reason. But once I've got the correct drivers loaded it "should" connect up fine, as I downloaded the latest tunerstudio with portmatch.

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So, connected up my laptop to the ECU yesterday (thanks Russell for the correct drivers). Anyway, once the laptop was synced with the ECU everything looked normal, water temp, air intake temp, vacumm/boost ect. Apart from the tacho. It was red when I wasn't cranking the engine, and when cranking, it seemed normal, staying around the 200-300rpm range. But then it would randomly spike up to 2000 or 5000rpm, completely randomly, and the engine timing and duty cycle would jump around randomly at the same time.

 

Not too sure what the problem is. I was thinking it could be interference to the CAS wire to the ECU. But I've never had a problem like that when using the previous coils. I think all my earths are good. Not too sure where to go from here.. Any help or suggestions would be cool!

 

Cheers!

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Do any of the coil/ igniter trigger wires or ignition leads run by the cas wires? Can cause interference. Also are you using resistor plugs and leads?

Yes they do for a small part.. But it has always been like that when running fine previously. And yes running resistor type plugs/leads. I'll check the timing tomorrow with a light, and give the plugs a wicked clean, to eliminate those possibilities, but I'm not getting my hopes up..

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