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Supercharging 1uz + Manual


Bombsquad

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Hey lads doing a bit of reasearch before i start collecting parts for the next phase of my project. I have a uzz v8 soarer which im currently converting to manual (w55 box, tilton clutch etc). Which is almost all sorted now apart from actually having the time to do it :lol:

But i figure while its sitting there I might aswell be on the lookout for the next stage which is a 671 or similar supercharger setup (same style as the Japrod laurel).

Can anyone tell me anything about doing this? where to find/best manifold, supercharger snout length, glimer belt setup etc.

Ill be going fuel injection eventually, but wont worry about this until I have everything else required for the blower.

Cheers for any info

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I probably wouldn't use a 6/71. Something like a an M112, or an M122 would be heaps bettter suited. I dunno how many different toyota V8's there are, but a guy here in chch has a snot green VK commy, with an M112 fed toyota V8. Runs a turbohydromatic trans and a 9' diff. I think he's making around 360rwhp? (It's been a while since I've been drag racing, so I can't remember) BUt the car is very consistant. Although how fast it is escapes me atm. He's pretty fast though.

About five or six years ago on trademe there was a guy selling a big lysholm screw blower off some mercedes V8. I think the price came down to about 1800 bux in the end. I woulda loved to have owned that.

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Nah it has to be a big 671 or similar top mount blower out the bonnet, to be honest im doing it more cos i love the look and the sound more than the performance, hell i dont even care if the thing only makes 2psi. I have no intrest at all in drag racing or high Hp/kw etc (it bores the fuck outta me tbh) so all the car will be used for is alot of burnouts and the odd track day.

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You can get a top feed m112 . With bug catcher , on a side note there is height limitations now if you plan on keeping it road legal. .you can get that style you are looking for. Google bullet m112 custom manifold and charger . But the cost involved your really wasting your time if you just want it for the looks. . I would recommend a w58 or a r154 minimum as blowers make good amounts of torque meaning if you do super charge you will kill a w55 in no time.

Super charging is not cheap . There is allot to think about ,not as easy as just bolt ing it on.If your looking for just the sound then get the gilmore kit off trade me . Much simpler option

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I dont think the height would be an issue as I have seen two setups the same as what i want to run in similar road legal vehicles, and it wont be anything too extreme. I thought the w55 and 58 had the same gear strength just different ratios? but either way I was more using the 55 just to get it running and sorted as a manual and then go to an r150 or r154 if/when I blow it.

Cost isnt really an issue, im sort of basing my pricing on 2g for the blower, 2g for injection, 1-2 for computer, and then other odds and ends as required.

Ive talked to simon regarding his manual conversion and hes been very helpfull and pointed me in the right direction, though ill be doing a few things differently with regard to bellhousing and clutch setup.

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I dont think the height would be an issue as I have seen two setups the same as what i want to run in similar road legal vehicles, and it wont be anything too extreme. I thought the w55 and 58 had the same gear strength just different ratios? but either way I was more using the 55 just to get it running and sorted as a manual and then go to an r150 or r154 if/when I blow it.

Cost isnt really an issue, im sort of basing my pricing on 2g for the blower, 2g for injection, 1-2 for computer, and then other odds and ends as required.

Ive talked to simon regarding his manual conversion and hes been very helpfull and pointed me in the right direction, though ill be doing a few things differently with regard to bellhousing and clutch setup.

ok that sounds good, I have a nite parts bell housing , I don’t like the look of the adapter plates although I don’t have any arguments about there strength or anything like that I just like the nice and tidy factory look of a good custom bell housing .

w58 can handle more power as the shafts and bearings are bigger if you get the right one . . . bloody Toyota w series, only way to know for sure is to pull it down and look. , r box is the king though; i will be changing up to one when i kill my 58.

I got my m112 for 300 of eBay, plus another 600 for tax and shipping.

The m112 is good for price and availability, it’s a bigger charger than the m90. best to have a bigger charger that is working much less harder ,than having a smaller charger that is working harder to sustain the boost level you are looking for because it keeps the air temp down if the charger isn’t working hard to make the boost level you are looking for .

As for the manifold, I got one from A1 turbos , they are selling them on trade me still . About 1600 bucks

As for the height that is sticks out of the bonnet, I have been to the library to read up on the rules from the” hobby car building ltsa guide”, I recommend everyone to read it if customising as its the written law book that the certifiers we all take ours cars to use and abide by , this cuts out any of the guess work out . I am not 100 % sure on the measurement as it was a month or 2 ago that I read the book. But the rule goes something like this. From the centre point of you front windscreen draw a string line to 17meters in front of the car to the ground no part of the engine or vehicle is allowed to be any higher than the string. also the wider the object is the shorter the string line gets, not to hard to work out . the only other exception and or change is what body style your car is ie : hot rods get away with murder on mostly all the rules , no idea why they just do .

I am using a g4 storm to control the lot, and 7m injectors.

You won’t see a lot of change out of 5 grand, but in saying that there is always a buck to be saved from making your own adapter and or building your own manifold etc. all comes down to how much you can do yourself and budget etc. I’m going all out on my build just cause its my dream build so “no holds bared “

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Cool, i think because of the style of the setup im going for the certifier and cops might be a bit more leniant (heres hoping lol) but either way if i cant get it legal then im not to worried. The car owes me virtually nothing now, and its a build ive always wanted to do.

With regard to the manual, im using modded auto bellhousing and adaptor plate with an internal release bearing setup.

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I bumped into the guy with the green VK commy at the pub yesterday arvo.

He's turning 420hp at the rears, and has a pb of 11.4 secs.

His is a top mount style set up. I think he's adapted a setup off some mustang V8. His even has an h20 to air exchanger in the manifold between the charger and the motor. As I understand it, the motor itself is completely standard. (Aside from the whopping great supercharger.

His blower is a rear intake, Kinda top rear. And it has two intake pipes which curve around to two throttle bodies which a sequential. I asked him about if he might run one sweet sweet injectoin hat with butterflies through the bonnet. But he said it would be two hard to drive. It needed the sequential TB's otherwise the blower just got too much air, and made too much torque to be drivable/tunable for the street.

If you take a gander on fleaBay, you'll be able to get an eaton charger SHITLOADS cheaper than a 6/71. Most "Cores" that you'll find cheaply, will be straight off trucks. They need quite a bit of work before they'll be bolt on and go on a petrol motor. And the blowers that have already had all that done are somewhat more pricey.

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2.43 is the bit that deals with blowers poking out bonnets

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ctions.pdf

bear in mind that a lot of "legal" cars you see with blowers hanging out the bonnet, are not really legal.ive had a couple of arguements with people saying im a prick for not certing thier car when" xxx`s car has a cert and thier blower sticks out way more than mine" they may have a cert plate but what most guys do is take scoops/spacers/air filters off for cert then as soon as the plate goes on the tall stuff all gets put back on. So now when we do a cert on a car with anything hanging out the bonnet, the protrusion has to be measured at its highest point and that gets recorded on the cert plate.

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i wasn’t to far off lol, and this is right out of the book,

Fixed-roof vehicles

2.4(3) A low volume vehicle which has a fixed roof must not have any

components or fittings forward of the firewall which protrude above

a straight line from the centre-point of the windscreen measured

both vertically and horizontally to:

(a) in the case of protrusions 250 mm or less in width, a point at

ground level 15 metres forward of the front of the vehicle; or

(B) in the case of protrusions between 250 mm and 400 mm in

width, a point at ground level 12 metres forward of the front

of the vehicle; or

© in the case of protrusions 400 mm or more in width, a point

this is the pic i took from the hobby guide from the library

2012-03-31121847.jpg

2012-03-31121857.jpg

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"I think he's adapted a setup off some mustang V8."

" His even has an h20 to air exchanger in the manifold between the charger and the motor".

"His blower is a rear intake, Kinda top rear. And it has two intake pipes which curve around to two throttle bodies which a sequential."

the m112 is a mustang charger, jag charger, ford lightning charger, eaton supply a few brands, each have their own setup, some of the eaton m112 off jag's even have their own factory water to air intercoolers! They can be top feed, rear feed and side feed. Also another thing to note is that there is different snout lengths and kits to change them over for your desired length. here are a few pictures of the bullet site there is a few options for however you want to set it up . these are m90s rear feed , with custom throtle adapters .

kit-car1.jpgresized_universal-toyota-supercharger2.jpg

the more boost you make out of a smaller charger, the hotter the intake air temp is, this is one of the down falls of super charging , some people make water to air coolers that fit inside there inlet manifold, some use water injection to help cool the intake charge air down, by injecting water spray directly into the intake. There are some people who utilize the use of methanol injection which is very effective and very similar to the water injection setup..

Some use air to air intercoolers and modify their inlet manifold into chambers then pipe/duct to front mounted intercoolers. All this helps but each setup has its down falls all will need trial and error, and can be allot of engineering.

If you’re like me and just want to keep life simple just run low boost like 8psi this is a compromise but you still retain good power increases whilst keeping a reliable clean setup.

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