two_days_late Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out what I need to do ignition wise for the Escort. I've done a bunch of research on the net but pretty much have no experience setting up this kinda thing so am at the point where I need to ask some possibly stupid questions. First of all I have this distributor: I got it off TradeMe a few years ago and apparently it is a fully Electronic Bosch Distributor (no points). It requires an additional +12volt wire from the ignition switch and it interfaces to the standard coil ballast system perfectly. Also by looking at it, it appears to use a vacuum advance (Assuming that gold thing on the side is the vacuum advance diaphragm?). The car also came with this coil, which after doing a bit of hunting on the net appears to be a Bosch GT40T or a GT40RT. The RT requiring a Ballast Resistor, and the T not. I don't currently have the car with me so can't check which coil it is and if it does have the resistor. I'm also going to be running twin Weber DCOE 40's on this manifold: Soooo my questions are... Should I be using this Coil with my Distributor as the new Dizzy is non points and the old one was a standard points based unit. Does this matter at all? If so and it is the Ballast Resistor type, is there any advantage or difference to getting the non ballast type instead? Should I bother with this coil anyway, as I've read a bunch of people saying they are crap but that is possibly due to them being used for the wrong application? Do I need to use the vacuum advance? (assuming yes), and if so how should I go about plumbing it to the manifold (assuming it would run off manifold pressure). Is it as simple as running a vacuum hose from the dizzy to the manifold, and if so would that be what the nobbin on the left most intake pipe on the manifold would be for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 So after a bit more research, I can probably just block off the vacuum advance on the Dizzy and be OK. Anyone...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Block vac advance on dizzy, that boss on your manifold is for if you want to run the brake booster. Looks like the resistor wire may have been cut off your loom, I would run a relay and new wiring (to headlights as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Cool cheers bro, will be rewiring everything (all of that has been ripped out now). Will most likely be running a remote booster so will sort that then, just focusing on getting the engine running for now though. Run a relay where?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Run a relay where?... Power feed to the + on the coil (if your going to feed 12v to the coil at least) And to both beams of the headlights, especially if you ever plan on running some good lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Personally I'd tap the manifold for a vacuum to get the advance curve riight. I have a hazy recollection that the twincam dizzy is vacuum-free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Ah right sweet, yep I need an extra 12+ at the Dizzy as well. Will be running it with spotlights so will sort all the headlights etc then. Cheers for that bro. I'd be keen to use the vacuum advance if I can, though virtually all the aftermarket ones on Burton etc seem to be non-vacuum. The fast road cam may also effect the standard vacuum advance on it as well? I wonder if it's better to sell this Dizzy and just buy a non vacuum one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 hey if you sell that dizzy let me know Or talk to Peter at Quality Rebuilds, knows his stuff, he can properly modify it for your application, also i have a side entry cap for your dizzy which is no use to me, I had problems with the dizzy cap fouling the manifold/carbs so i ended up going with a 1300 manifold which clears it. Also using a genuine Lucas dizzy that Pete built for me, wasnt cheap! http://www.qualityrebuilds.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Sweet will let ya know if I decide to go for another option. Thanks for that link, I'll give them an email and see what they can do. How much would you want for your side entry cap bro, I'm just about to put in a big order of odds and ends from Burton so was just gonna grab one from them, they're quite cheap. Pretty sure my Dizzy will fit once I get the side entry cap on there, if it doesn't then I will have problems as my manifolds been ported to match the ported head! I'll email that dude, but the main thing I think I'm trying to get is if the vacuum advance is just used as an extra on top of the mechanical advance to help with smooth idle / emissions / idle temp, or if the mechanical advance is different on a dizzy that also has vacuum advance. I don't want to just block it off if its going to make it idle like crap if I can just use a non-vacuum dizzy or connect the vacuum advance. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 You won't easily be able to get a good enough vacuum from that manifold for the dizzy (or at least I never managed to with mine and ended up ditching vac advance) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hmm so just block the vacuum at the Dizzy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 my vac advance pulses at anything below about 2k rpm, I have 1/8" NPT fittings on each runner. Didnt really notice any difference with or without Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Vacuum advance is just for better emisions at idle, unsure why you are messing around with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 It also effects Idle temp and how smooth the car runs at idle. I'm messing around with it because my new distributor has a vacuum advance, and I want to know the implications of not using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 All it does is add a small amount of advance to the ignition when there is manifold vacuum, it is there to promote clean burning at idle to appease the hippies, nothing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 you have alot of manifold vacuum at motorway speeds too, which supposedly means more efficient running http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_t ... ng_advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Yea definitely more than just emissions, just gonna see how it idles with this dizzy and if I'm not happy then I'll change it. It should at least run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkcortina Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 I saw this in Junes CF Mag http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/page_1796358.html they don't have the price for the crossflow yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 All it does is add a small amount of advance to the ignition when there is manifold vacuum, it is there to promote clean burning at idle to appease the hippies, nothing else. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32653 Get some learning into ya! @TDL, As already mentioned, you should be able to get the car running without vac advance, then worry about fine-tuning later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 All it does is add a small amount of advance to the ignition when there is manifold vacuum, it is there to promote clean burning at idle to appease the hippies, nothing else. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32653 Get some learning into ya! I don't know if you have ever played with twin webers/dellortos (probably not I'm guessing), but they have very little manifold vacuum at anything but idle. As the OP clearly stated that he is going to run them, and asked "Do I need to use the vacuum advance?" the correct answer is no, he doesn't NEED to hook it up and there will next to no benefit from doing so, there would be much more to be gain by getting the dizzy recurved to the carb/cam/compression combo that he is planning on running. If this was using the stock manifold/carb then sure there would be gains to be had by hooking it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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