SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Engine ground checked and cleaned. 2nd engine ground added. No difference. Is the -ve terminal on coil meant to go basically straight to ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 no - thats the signal wire from the points opening and closing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 K. So what did keltik mean by the ground and the coil body? /Sorry for the stupid questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Crappy ground would equal crappy spark and crappy running. Since its all G - youve eliminated one simple thing without spending money. However, i was under the impression whenever you did points you should also do condensor. So that'd be the next thing i'd throw on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Escortina Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 just a thought tho..I had the same kinda problem with my escort did everything points.spark plugs timing ,carb etc drove me nuts in the end i removed the inlet manifold to put the standard carb on to find the gasket was fucked and was sucking in to much air making it run lean as.New gasket was the fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Yeah, I've done the condensor. There's power to the coil, but none to the dizzy - so it gets lost somewhere inbetween? This is really doing my head in Manifold has new gasket, may try to tighten the bolts up a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 That would indicate fucked coil no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Could do, but coil is brand new EDIT: coil says to use with an external ballast resistor. Is this right for a Mini? God I'm confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Does your mini have a ballast resistor or is there 12V at the coil with the ignition on? Coils that require a ballast are designed to run with about 6-8v with the ignition on and only 12v when starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 A bung condensor will cause your points to burn out quickly. Wish you were in chch, would come have a squiz. With the key in the on position, but the engine not running, what's the voltage at the positive terminal of your coil? measure it between the pos terminal and a good engine ground . Should be battery voltage as minis don't run a ballasted system. The dizzy never really 'gets power'. its got two functions, first is to open the circuit, by way of the points, that is letting current flow though the coil. This makes your spark at the ht lead. The second is to distribute this spark (via the rotor and cap) to the correct cylinder. Should be wired up to an ignition switched source is to the positive of the coil, and the negitave goes to the distributor points. Have you done the coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Running a coil for a ballasred system at a full 12v all the time will kill a coil... usually takes a while though. I'm pretty sure minis don't run a ballasted system, unless they have a long resistive wire to power the coil in place of a ballast resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 wrong coil is burning the points out. need a non ballast coil, or fit a ballast resistor in the power supply to the coil. sounds like the points are shorted out/ wire is on the wrong side of the insulator on the points. very common thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Coil has 12v at the positive terminal. Pos terminal of the coil has a white wire that disappears into the loom - is that meant to be like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 wire is on the wrong side of the insulator on the points. Insulator on points? So do I need a coil that has a ballast resisitor in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Guys from the garage came round, said the new condensor is fucked. Gah, do I fix it Saturday and go to Kumeu Sunday, or do I go to Kumeu both days as a passenger in Lincoolns Fuego? Fuck this sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtdvl Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 you can't fix it today? If you need anything picked up from town let me know, i can go grab it and drop it off after work if your in the haven... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Yup, wrong coil could def fuck condensor quickly. Get a coil for a non-ballasted system, a new condensor and fixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Got new points & condensor, still no luck. The coil I have is a 12V one, without it's own ballast. Is this right, or do I need a coil with an internal ballast? Oh, and drtdvl, thanks for the offer, but I think I'll hold off for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 No such thing as a coil with its own internal ballast. Basically (for old cars) you have two types of coils: Those for non-ballasted systems, that run at run 12v all the time, regardless. This is what a mini is. So you want a coil that DOESNT say 'use with external resistor', or whatever. These coils are also commonly known as 'electronic ignition coils', even though the mini clearly isnt electronic ignition, as almost all kettering points systems use a ballast resistor of some kind (the mini is a bit weird here). On the flip side, you have coils that are for use with a ballasted system. These are made to run on 6-8v all the time, with a short burst at 12v used for starting. Ballasted systems are actually a bit better, if i hadent switched to electronic ignition on my mini i'd definatley set up a ballasted system. If you have a coil that is for use with a ballast resistor, and your running it at 12v all the time, it'll get hot and you'll kill it. Also, since the current through the coil, and therefore the current through your points is quite a bit larger than what the system is designed for, your condensor wont work properly, causing a spark at your points when they open, which will burn them out quick smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Would not explain the severity of backfiring, I say timing out, word start from scratch, even the pro's sometimes miss the basics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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