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rust remoal/ paint spray question


LingLing

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Hi all

I removed some rust from my car. and thought didn't need filler.

After primed it, i found few uneven surface probably due to the heavy flake rust I removed.

so should i sand the areas that uneven and filler and then prime it again?

cheers.

yep unless you want to to still look shit. if its surface rust grind it all away, slap a skim of filler on it. sand paint done. spent most of my day doing the same thing :)

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Spray parallel to the panels at all times, don't curve the spray gun, which is natural, but real bad for quality (causes uneven coverage, and eventually runs, which are shit).

That's the main thing.

Other than not rushing it.

will be using a spraying can. thanks, Yeh, runs are what I am worried about.

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Spray parallel to the panels at all times, don't curve the spray gun, which is natural, but real bad for quality (causes uneven coverage, and eventually runs, which are shit).

That's the main thing.

Other than not rushing it.

QFT, i sprayed my old familia and curved my arm/body when spraying and it turned out shit, didnt even relize i was doing it

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Spray parallel to the panels at all times, don't curve the spray gun, which is natural, but real bad for quality (causes uneven coverage, and eventually runs, which are shit).

That's the main thing.

Other than not rushing it.

QFT, i sprayed my old familia and curved my arm/body when spraying and it turned out shit, didnt even relize i was doing it

Yeah, it's natural to do it.

I did it just today in fact, when I was spraying the inside of the Lada engine bay.

But I blame that on lack of space.

And the hugely bad man flu I have.

And the fact that it is only a Lada... :lol:

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Personally, even if it's just surface rust, I believe it is ALWAYS better to chop it all out and weld in a new patch as well as suss out WHY it was rusting (ie. if its in a footwell, is something leaking water in/ if it's by a window, are your seals fucked etc)

If you just grind it back and bog/respray, then 15 years later after it's rusted again to absolute fuckery underneath all that cancer-bait bog shit, then someone like me will put a voodoo hex on you and you will get ball cancer.

Over the course of my extensive hacking up of my car I have found that most of the rust has developed where there is extensive bog over something that WASN'T patched, which indicates to me that in the past the person who 'fixed' it just grinded/bogged.

Furthermore, my mate just had his AW11 fail a wof on rust that had sprung up where a paintshop had just ground/bogged/sprayed some rust about 2 years back (though they charged him on the invoice for patches welded in etc - but that's another story) Showing that cutting corners instead of rusty metal leads to future problems. Even if you are just doing it to sell the thing quick - don't be THAT dick.

/end rant.

tl;dr - CUT AND PATCH SHIT, DON'T GRIND AND BOG - OR THERE WILL BE... TROUBLE. (robocop, 1987)

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Got it not so long ago, Not selling it soon, will drive it for a while, and all the rust isn't structure. and Lucky it is all surface rust, chip the thin layer of mixture of rust and paint out and I can basically see the metal.

Rust is like cancer, will not cure unless you remove the part then you got a good chance to fight it, well it's just Cut and Patch is too pro for me bro.

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i can paint with cans better than a gun

go figure

+1,and i only use plastikote brand,no others.

on the subject of rust,cutty cutty weldy weldy,better to get rid of it completely and put new metal in than anything else.ive done the whole grind,bog,paint on rust,always turned to shit after a few months.plus if its doing that on the outside who knows what could be hidden underneath it even if it isnt a structural area

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