7AGE thoughts.

[WhangareiKE70]

Was thinking of building a N/A 7AGE, to replace the N/A 4AGE I currently have in My KE70 wagon, when it comes off the road for it's twin headlight conversion/general tidy up.

I did a search on here/the general internets and have found information generally inconclusive.

I know Seedy Al has had a 7AGE powered beast before, as well as some other OS members.

My general requirements are:

-Reliable.

-Only semi make-me-broke®-ish.

-Semi good power, meaning over the power of a standardish 4AGE.

-Higher revving, which means I want higher compression?

So, what I would like from you OS boes is your general advice, and help. I want to run the blacktop 4AGE ITBs, so would I be better off using the blacktop head or getting an adaptor kit so I can use the 16v head?

Also I plan to use a Gilmer belt drive kit and run some sort of standalone ECU, if this info helps.

Let me know if there is any other information I can provide to make answering my questions easier, as I know you guys hate answering "plz hlp me gt mre powa broom broom" type questions.

Share with me your knowledge, oh wise ones.

[Seedy Al]

only way to get more power is with a stand alone ECU, so thats a good start.

You will also need some adjustable cam gears to line up the cams correctly with the longer cambelt etc.

Mine made 79kw at the wheels, with a street tune. thats more over your standard bluetop or redtop, however down low it lacked the abilty to pick up the revs like you would want it to.

but, in saying that, that was becasue it was running factory 7afe pistons, which give it a compression ration of mid 8's. so pretty much the same as a gze.

this can be fixed by putting any 4age pistons in, which bumps them up to 10 some, or 11 something if you use 20v ones.

to fit the pistons I believe you need to machine down the 4age Gudgions 2 mill to fit the 7afe conrod.

but as for drivabilty. a 7age is more of a torque engine, not so much rev engine. i could notice the difference in torque pretty well, and i would say with 4age pistons, and some quads it would have been a much more fun little unit.

I would also recommend Aftermarket con rod bolts, as the 7afe ones arnt that stronge and can let go. and maybe consider i lighten flywheel also to get it a bit more rev's

Anyway long story short, they are fun little motors, most the money goes into the ECU and Cam gears more than anything.

Markku seemed to like driving that one time round the track, as did I

[phatt20]

spool do an off the shelf h/beam rod with arp bolts for these. proly wouldnt be silly if you are goin to try revving it.

[WhangareiKE70]

it was running factory 7afe pistons, which give it a compression ration of mid 8's. so pretty much the same as a gze.

this can be fixed by putting any 4age pistons in, which bumps them up to 10 some, or 11 something if you use 20v ones.

to fit the pistons I believe you need to machine down the 4age Gudgions 2 mill to fit the 7afe conrod.

So for a higher compression I should use the Blacktop pistons? I will be sourcing a whole blacktop engine for this from my uncle so using as much of this as possible would be preferable. However those conrods that phatt20 mentioned from Spool are only 500 dollars (U.S.?). What compression ratio would these give? Here's the link: http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conro ... fe-conrods

I would also recommend Aftermarket con rod bolts, as the 7afe ones arnt that stronge and can let go. and maybe consider i lighten flywheel also to get it a bit more rev's

Does anyone know if you can get an aftermarket lightened flywheel, or would my money be better spent getting the factory one lightened?

So my shopping list (so far) would be:

-Blacktop head with ITBs,

-7AFE block at least, probably easier to buy a whole one.

-Spool rods,

-ARP rod bolts,

-Blacktop pistons,

-Gilmer drive kit,

-Link or other standalone ECU,

-Adjustable cam gears.

Anything else? What sort of headgasket and cambelt do I need? I hear it's a Peugeot item, does anyone have a product number or similar?

Also what sort of gearbox would I want? I have a T50 with the A series bellhousing at the moment, would that suffice?

Cheers guys. =]

[mikuni]

Personally I would rather spend (less than) the amount you intend on spending either building up a blacktop or dropping in a BEAMS 3S-GE and getting better results with far less hassle than building up a 7A-GE.

[Simon]

^^

Yep, BEAMS it.

Spend your budget on a good motor and gearbox conversion then hey presto, you have something that works not a old half built / blown up motor with no money left.

[WhangareiKE70]

Personally I would rather spend (less than) the amount you intend on spending either building up a blacktop or dropping in a BEAMS 3S-GE and getting better results with far less hassle than building up a 7A-GE.

I have a Beams 3SGE going into my other KE70. I would say the hassle is definitely moreso with that than an A series engine, due to mounting issues and all the rest. A blacktop or turbo 16 valve isn't off the cards as of yet, just weighing up options. Hell, if I was made of money I would be running a 1UZ with ITBs. But I'm not.

I'm looking at all options, and I couldn't find much on this one. So I thought I'd ask.

[Yowzer]

A 7a ain't gonna rev as high as a 4a, I think ya need to knock at least 500 off your redline. In saying that that is probably based on stock internals which aren't very strong.

Cambelt is from a Porsche 924 I think.

You will need to make some sort of custom mid piece cambelt cover as the 4a one won't fit, or just run without if you don't have a fear of stones getting caught in the belt.

20v cams would be mildly gay on a 7a as they start hitting their power when the engine is at its redline. I think the bluetops worked best in factory form. If you're building up the bottom end then this won't be as big a deal though.

[mikuni]

My brain collapsed while attempting it at this hour, but after a few minutes looking through this thread I think it is safe to say that reading this from start to finish will answer all of your questions.

http://www.wheelsjamaicahost.com/wheels ... 038.0;wap2

Gist is it shouldn't really work, its not really worth the effort, but some people have smashed them together and got very good results from doing so.

It kind of boils down to what you want. I relate it to me putting an Opel engine in my old Chevette. It didn't make the most sense, nor power, and it perhaps wasn't the best option for "bang for buck", but it was what I wanted to do and I was very happy with the results. Sure an SR20DET (or pretty much any Japanese engine for that matter) would have made twice the power, but it no doubt would have caused endless problems and broken things and at the end of the day, I wouldn't have been happy opening the bonnet to see an SR in there.

So if you are set on a torquey engine and must stay with the Toyota A series and NA, then a 7A-GE is the answer. If you just want more power and don't care about revving it, building a 4A up might be the solution, and if you want to bother with forced induction, then 4A-GZE or an NA motor + T might be the best bet.

[thegreatestben]

Cambelts:

16V head = Porsche 944 Belt

20v head = 16V 4AGE Belt

I wouldn't bother with an N/A 7A as if you look around there's plenty of 4AGTE's smashing out just as much power as my 7AGTE ever did.

It made things very annoying because of all the little things like the timing belt which doesn't line up properly without mucking around and the lack of flywheel/clutch choices thanks to *AFE only having 6 bolt crank/flywheel as opposed to the 4age 8 holes etc.

Going by what you have said I think you'd be getting more bang for your buck by going for a 4AGZE + turbo and aftermarket ecu. The ECU will make the possibilities in future much easier to achieve as you figure out what way you want to take the project.