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How low can you go? (Legally w cert)


Ridal

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Built adjustables = real low. What is the lowest (from lowest structural point) someone here has got cert for? Also will I have any trouble with my home made adjustables? They are standard struts that have been chopped down. I had them welded professionally and the guy did a really nice job. Used Jamex steel sleeves etc so components are from a reputable brand. They have ample travel so that won't be an issue. I'm yet to have a yarn with cert man but I thought I'd try here first to hear peoples experiences.

James

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check the cert thread were we have a vehicle certifier checking quite regularly.

However the first question is pretty open so would be mor of a first person question to ask .

as for the latter , unfortunatly im pretty sure they need to be tigged and xrayed? or somthing like that

ill find thread

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I don't think there is a rule for how low you can go with a cert.

But the cert man is not going to cert it 5mm from the ground.

I know there have been cars certed at 40mm from the cross member but to get there the springs pretty much have to be so hard you have no travel.

The only way you can be sure is to talk with the person who is going to certify the car.

If the suspension components look like they have been built well they will get a cert.

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Thanks guys. A guy at autoline told me you need a minimum of 30mm travel in the shock which I easily have. Not sure if what he said is true but sounds believable. Have you had DIY adjustables certed Simon? So you're saying there's no x-raying involved? I put mine in one time and got pink stickered the next day. It was a bit silly of me but I had just finished them and was at the garage... The xmember was about 20-25mm clear of the ground with captive springs and ample travel. I'd say I couldn't get cert for 25mm if you need 30mm shock travel.

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christ that is low!! my hardtop was 70 mm off ground at front x member (the lowest point) and i had to raise it up again as travelling on anything that wasnt a motorway was hell.

also need to factor in droop of the springs . but yuh check with cletus he knows alot and if he dont he can point you in the right direction , also he is in auckland

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It wasn't too bad. 4kg springs were a bit soft. I'm looking for some 8kg's to use. The tow hooks collected a lot of tar! But man it was fully worth it. Looked real good.

I never got them certed but know heaps that have.

I was aiming for about 50mm and my springs are 10kg in the front ant 7 in the rear.

Anyway I gave up on that and just spent a heap on airbags which will allow me to be 2mm or 200. All problems solved.

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there currently is no minimum measurement, last training session it was being suggested that there might be one bought in. Bit of a worry, cause there was plenty of certifiers saying 100mm was low enough..........

But as it stands at the moment, it would have to comply with the scrub line rule, ( basically if you get a flat tyre, nothing can hit the road)

geometry cant be excessive ie steering arms on silly angles etc

no bind in ball joints/tierod ends

no tyre rub

have enough travel

above all its got to be safe to drive, so if its scraping on the road during normal driving then its too low

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Thank you Cletus! Ok I will hurry up then. Thanks everyone for the input. Is there any rules regarding camber? I got my cressida lower arms the other day and was planning on installing them this weekend. They will give me quite a bit of camber, maybe -5 degrees, and I have just wondered whether this would be considered unsafe?

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In most cases legal = sensible. If the certifier doesn't like what they see you will fail, end of story.

The most I'd run on a "road car" would about -4 camber, and even that is excessive for most road driving. Are you trying to make something that looks sweet but handles like a sack of knobs? Because going around corners (fast) and making it from A to B without getting beached is kind of the bonus of having a car on the road.

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Yes its legal to the point where it screws the tyre/bearing and it wont pass a wof. There is no camber check box on the wof sheet.

I had about 3.5 degrees on my little Alto and it rooted a bearing and a CV. Not recommended on fwd's lol.

Did handle better down hill.

Truenotch is right how a certifier wont cert it because it's just stupid.

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Truenotch - Yea I think the car will end up looking good, handling badly and being a bit difficult in general to drive around. I'll get some adjustable camber plates as well which will hopefully allow me to pull a few degrees out if I don't like it. I think -5 would still be in the 'to make it handle better' realm though? If it was VIP spec camber they'de tell you to jog. I think the best thing to do now would be to take the car as it is now to the cert guy, tell him my plans and go from there.

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has to pass a brake test, too much camber and you prob wont.

my escort is about 80mm off the ground and its annoying to drive where speed bumps are concerned.

also high speed suspension soaking woops in road sometime makes a bit of scrapage.

just dont make it soo silly you hate driving it, cos then theres no point.

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Very valid point and I know what that feels like. I do have two cars so it may just switch the daily duties around. Or I'll realise it's not worth it and change it back. Good things to consider especially the brake test, thanks.

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