fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hey guys, where is the oil pressure relief valve located on a Volvo B21 engine in a '76 244GL? My oil light is on and sometimes flickers at high rpm, oil level is full and I can hear a faint knocking noise so I think the oil pressure is quite low - possible stuck relief valve. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Not downline from the oil pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Where is the oil pump? On some engines you can access the pressure relief valve externally, just wondering if it's the same case with the B21. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 the pressure relief valve is part of the pump I think, pump is part of the pick up inside the sump thats from memory but also seems to be backed up by mr Haynes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 bah! damnit. I'll replace the oil pressure sensor and see if that fixes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Haha doesn't sound good Phill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 haha yeah I know. That faint knocking noise doesn't appear to still be there after a 100km drive home - the light apparently has been on for the previous owner for a few weeks (I'm sure they had it checked out) and they drove from Nelson to Akl then to Tauranga with no probs. Hrmm. This is probably why you check out a car before buying it, apparently an oil light on isn't something that I should know about when I specifically asked if there were things to know about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 have a 0-100psi gauge at work and a fuckload of fittings should you decide you actually want to diagnose whats wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 have a 0-100psi gauge at work and a fuckload of fittings should you decide you actually want to diagnose whats wrong do this then you can find out what the pressure is before possibly wasting money on oil pressure senders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 have you heard of stationary full load cooling test? its also used for diagnosis of oil related issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 ^ this but yeah check it properly you n00b. and full the shit out of it with some sweet 20w50 coz I bet they filled it with wees of a fur seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Yeah I got a gauge here somewhere just need to make sure I have the right thread adapter, I'll probably drop you a visit tomorrow mikey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 If you don't have the right adaptor go and talk to a dude at Mitchell Motorsport, he has a whole range of adaptors and last time lent me them for a few days for $20. Has a gauge and everything, even fit an Opel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Sweet as cheers for that I'll see what Mike has and failing that will go to Mitchell Motorsport. I think I know what the problem is now though, this other guy with a 240 series had the same troubles and it turned out to be this: I just wonder who/where does the new seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 seal imports philly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Just take the light out...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hah was going to say those seals look like cut down garden hose. Find suitable hose, cut strips off, done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 hah I'm not that rangi! I can't even get the electric oil pressure gauge sender on the block without it fouling on the alternator or the oil filter housing - the oil pressure switch looks to be the same used on most jappas so they're only a few bucks, will buy one and chuck it on and see, or just pinch one from the VR-4 or GT for testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 all sorted, once I put the sender back in and cleaned up the terminal the oil light now goes out when the engine is running - surely if the connector was dirty the oil light just wouldn't come on full stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 who are you trying to convince phill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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