nismo.capri Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 they work well mate they just need to be a wee bit longer so they are about10mm from the spring. dan They certainly stop the tramp! I'm going to hunt for bigger stops, may be a visit to CTS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 Looking & sounding good there.. Def go for at least the Fr32. It is def a streetale cam still. Gaz After driving Brendan's with the 300+ degree cam I know there's more power sitting there. His cam while a lot of fun while standing on it is not for a daily driver. I really think FR32 timing with as much lift as possible is the go. That said the guys on turbo sport don't think I have enough CR to be running an FR32 "the Burton BF134. Cannot recommend this cam enough for your spec of engine. (266 degrees, 11.7mm lift)" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 The info I read reckoned that you want the force to be applied halfway between the center of the spring eye and where the second leaf ends. I definitly want the stops closer to the spring, can you send me the link about the force being applied on the spring, most of the setups I've seen do that. I found this very interesting http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/traction_bars.htm I found this pic as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Ford/Engines/auction-331848580.htm how bout one of these bump sticks. slightly better than the gt grind and not to aggressive. cheap to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 ^^^ not enough lift or duration for what I think I want. He can do roller profiles though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 iI think hes saying that the stop wants to be closer to the leaf to start with. Its in the right postioin but the spring can still wind a up a fair bit before that hits the leaf. thats the one dave. they worked well in my van i thought they needed to be closer to the spring. they work well mate they just need to be a wee bit longer so they are about10mm from the spring. dan They certainly stop the tramp! I'm going to hunt for bigger stops, may be a visit to CTS yeah im sure they do one that had thread and nut on it so we can weld a nut to the trap bars and then you can adjust them to where you want them. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Actually I was quite mistaken. That distance was referring to a completely different set up. I had the halfway between bit in my head, but the whole thing was different. I was thinking of caltrac slapper bars, Make some!-http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 yeah im sure they do one that had thread and nut on it so we can weld a nut to the trap bars and then you can adjust them to where you want them. dan Did you have a good look at the base of them? I'm worried that a good wallop in to the spring would just impale the stop on any adjustment nut as there will be a fair bit of force there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Actually I was quite mistaken. That distance was referring to a completely different set up. I had the halfway between bit in my head, but the whole thing was different. I was thinking of caltrac slapper bars, Make some!-http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html Nice but if I'm going to make something I'd like to do an A frame as it seems to me like the poor mans radius arms and panhard rod (top on in the pic below) it stops tramp and does some laterial location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Going on the dyno finally this Saturday, almost a year later so it's well run in This is the dyno run on this engine before I rebuilt it. The differences are Bottom end rebuilt, decked 6 tho, TBI ported,inlet manifold ported, head ported and filled, Head skimmed, same cam, same headers,same exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Good luck Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Good luck Si. Thanks Bart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Where's the dyno sheet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Turns out I was a month early. Not expecting big gains more a change in the the shape of the curves, it was a winter morning for the first run so lots of nice dense air also dynos aren't the most accurate of devices. Hoping for some decent gains when I put the angry cam in though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Dyno day is tomorrow! There's going to be 2 pinto engines with heads I filled ported Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Do you think the TPI could support blowthrough if the whole shooting match was boxed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I dont think you'd even need to box it. Shafts have seals. Come over and borrow one i have a couple of spares Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Outside NZEFI, looks more like the escort club not the subaru club Ready to go The results are in! Overall pleased, the torque has good increase up the rev range until 4400 rpms where it drops under the non-filled port. You can't see it with the pic from my phone but NZEFI dug up my first run and over laid it, shame it's a fine dotted line. I'll scan it at work monday. It needs a bit more fuel especially at the top end The filled ports made a good gains in the low and midrange but might be too filled. I'm thinking I might drop them down a bit when I put the new cam in Here' the run of the other 2L that I did the filled ports on. It's running way rich, the cam hasn't been dialled in and the ignition is factory Sierra electronic. So it needs a lot of tuning still. This is in kWs it peaked at 120HP. The guys at NZEFI think it would easily hit 100 kW (135HP) at the wheels. See the AFR is averaging 10:1ish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 I forgot to say that my engine was 13 HP less than the professionally built 2L with freshly well tuned twin 45's and a cam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Here's the before (black) and after (blue). Notice how the top end drops off with the filled port. I think this filled port is becoming a restriction at about 5400 rpms. This is the biggest of the filled port heads by far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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