Gaz Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Long time no hear. Looking forward to following this thread. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 I've got a '71 MK 1 Escort Van. I've had it for amost 2 years and I'm pulling the mighty 1100cc and putting in a Pinto 2L as I'm sick of being over taken by old ladies and cyclists. I have the bottom end built it's pretty much a sandard 205 with 1mm over pistons, shot peened rods, everything balenced and the deck was skimed .006 to clean it up (Yes I know I should have zero decked it). Bore 92.25mm Stroke 76.9mm Deck 0.59mm Gasket Dia 93.25 Gasket thickness 1.4mm The current numbers give me 9.61:1 CR. 1mm felpro gasket: 10.01:1 .75mm copper gasket: 10.29:1 .50mm copper gasket: 10.57:1 .25mm copper gasket: 10.88:1 We put the head on my friends flow bench (Superflow 110) and got some good numbers. It's down on the last head I did (only by about 2-5% depending on the lift point) but that had the valve guides shortened and knife edged 45.5mm wasted stem inlet valves and less epoxy in the port. Lift mm / stock / mine - CFM @28" 1.27 / 21.8 / 25.4 2.54 / 47.8 / 53.7 5.08 / 107.6 / 112.0 7.62 / 141.5 / 150.1 10.16 / 151.9 / 174.8 12.70 / 157.2 / 185.8 I was well pleased with the results but the velocity was higher than Max would have liked to see at 260 fps. I asked him if I should lower the tops of the epoxy speed humps he sad no because I'm building a daily driver that isn't going to see high rpms often and the higher velocity will help at low rpm. I'm going to run the throttle body injection set up from a Falcon that I ran on my last Van so it will still look stockish. BF134: 1000-6250 rpms, 11.7mm lift, 266 duration, full lift 110° FR34: 1000-6250 rpms, 12.7mm lift, 263° duration, full lift 110° FR32: 2500-7000 rpms, 11.22mm lift, 285° duration, full lift 108° I'm told that the BF134 doesn't stress the valve train as much but I'd be loosing flow. I'm liking the FR34. With the common plenum manifold I think running a cam with a lot of duration isn't a good idea because of the reversion. Any thoughts on what cam, how much CR and running a thin copper head gasket with out o-ringing block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 I run the FR32 and highly recomend it. I have standard carb + manifold. Head is basically standard but with hardened valve seats. Bottom end is well balanced and pretty light flywheel. I also run an adjustable cam gear which I spent hours trying to dial in. Cam is so much better than standard in almost everyway. Engine is in my mk2 Cortina and even with the light as flywheel and cam there is enough torque to have little problems at low RPM. 55-60kmph cruise in 5th is still doable with the 3.54 diff. I also ran a fr32 in my old escort with the 2l bottom end and 1600 flowed head. 10.3:1 compression. Cant coment on flow rates as it was never benched, it did have 2l valves in it tho. It wasnt a Vizard type job I know that much. With the higher compression the little fucker went pretty well, alot better than before I put the head/cam on anyways. Again this was on standard intake. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 AFAIK copper head gaskets without o-ringing is a no-no. Daniel had one on his 280Z for a little and it didnt work. That is a turbo motor however, so higher pressures and whatnot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 AFAIK copper head gaskets without o-ringing is a no-no. Daniel had one on his 280Z for a little and it didnt work. That is a turbo motor however, so higher pressures and whatnot... can be done old guy showed me a trick with some Vaseline and speaker wire he built TT winning triumphs so i wont argue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 AFAIK copper head gaskets without o-ringing is a no-no. Daniel had one on his 280Z for a little and it didnt work. That is a turbo motor however, so higher pressures and whatnot... Do you know how thick? Was he trying to get some decompression with it? I've been told that when using thin copper head gaskets you don't need the o rings as long as the surfaces are fresh. Garage beers tonight if you are still on holiday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Long time no hear.Looking forward to following this thread. Gaz Yeah had the year from hell at work.... it's taken me almost 6 months just to get the bottom end and head done and I get free machining at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Cam is so much better than standard in almost everyway. Engine is in my mk2 Cortina and even with the light as flywheel and cam there is enough torque to have little problems at low RPM. 55-60kmph cruise in 5th is still doable with the 3.54 diff. I'm liking that... My brain says go with the FR34 daily driver maximise the torque blah blah but the duration is really Nana. Excort is running that first epoxy filled head I posted here with a 300ish° cam and thats way too much for what I want but I ldo love it gets on it. I also ran a fr32 in my old escort with the 2l bottom end and 1600 flowed head. 10.3:1 compression. Cant coment on flow rates as it was never benched, it did have 2l valves in it tho. It wasnt a Vizard type job I know that much. With the higher compression the little fucker went pretty well, alot better than before I put the head/cam on anyways. Again this was on standard intake. Gaz Was that only 10.3:1? Do you know the CC's of the 1600 combustion chamber? Standard intake with the weber 32/36? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 can be done old guy showed me a trick with some Vaseline and speaker wire he built TT winning triumphs so i wont argue And the trick was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 AFAIK copper head gaskets without o-ringing is a no-no. Daniel had one on his 280Z for a little and it didnt work. That is a turbo motor however, so higher pressures and whatnot... Do you know how thick? Was he trying to get some decompression with it? I've been told that when using thin copper head gaskets you don't need the o rings as long as the surfaces are fresh. Garage beers tonight if you are still on holiday Im in study study study mode at the moment, last exam tomorrow afternoon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Im in study study study mode at the moment, last exam tomorrow afternoon! Good luck! ......Not that you'll need it geekboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 I'm liking that... My brain says go with the FR34 daily driver maximise the torque blah blah but the duration is really Nana. Excort is running that first epoxy filled head I posted here with a 300ish° cam and thats way too much for what I want but I ldo love it gets on it. Def go with the 32, it is def still streetable. Perfect cam IMO. Only bad thing I can say about my first FR32 was the fact it ate itself even tho I had matched the rockers. The one I run now is a billet item and has been mint. Damn Pinto geometry! Was that only 10.3:1? Do you know the CC's of the 1600 combustion chamber? Standard intake with the weber 32/36? I had chambers changed to make for 10.3:1. Standard 1600 head on 2l block would be alot higher. It was cc'd at the time but I cant remember outcome and I didn't write it in my project thread. Im thinking it ended up at 47cc's but thats just a number that springs to mind lol. Yes the car had standard sierra intake and standard 32/36. I had plans to upgrade both but then decided to swap for a CA which never happened and then I sold. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Def go with the 32, it is def still streetable. Perfect cam IMO. Only bad thing I can say about my first FR32 was the fact it ate itself even tho I had matched the rockers. The one I run now is a billet item and has been mint. Damn Pinto geometry! Hell yes! ...the geometry sucks ...you are a bad man I sorta want the FR32 as it's the standard performance cam. I had chambers changed to make for 10.3:1. Standard 1600 head on 2l block would be alot higher. It was cc'd at the time but I cant remember outcome and I didn't write it in my project thread. Im thinking it ended up at 47cc's but thats just a number that springs to mind lol. Yes the car had standard sierra intake and standard 32/36. I had plans to upgrade both but then decided to swap for a CA which never happened and then I sold. Gaz My 2L was 48cc, when I got it planed again it dropped to 46.4cc. 47 makes it about 2lish ....I really gotta cc that 1600cc head I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 The high lights. My camera died so only a few head porting/building pics Block Piston Bores Furking key took some removal It's porting time I just cleaned up the valve guide and left it mostly intacked On the flow bench vs the standard head Big D aka d.p.n.s making the front sump pickup Looks good Ready for the crank Crank in Block done Head on with the front sump You can sorta see the epoxy in the ports Love that billet flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 just laying a single wire from some speaker flex and holding it down to the gasket with vasaline (stickier than grease)to make a slightly overlapping circle around the bores, fiddly job that has a knack to it copper gasket we were fitting at the time was 10thou, head and block were averagely finished he said a media blasted finish was best but cbf stripping shit down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 Looking good. WHy did you take the keyway off the cam? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 just laying a single wire from some speaker flex and holding it down to the gasket with vasaline (stickier than grease)to make a slightly overlapping circle around the bores, fiddly job that has a knack to itcopper gasket we were fitting at the time was 10thou, head and block were averagely finished he said a media blasted finish was best but cbf stripping shit down Interesting! ...worked well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Looking good.WHy did you take the keyway off the cam? Gaz The cam key came out fine that was the crank key. It was rusted in and a complete bitch to get out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 just laying a single wire from some speaker flex and holding it down to the gasket with vasaline (stickier than grease)to make a slightly overlapping circle around the bores, fiddly job that has a knack to itcopper gasket we were fitting at the time was 10thou, head and block were averagely finished he said a media blasted finish was best but cbf stripping shit down Interesting! ...worked well? did a full race season before being gutted for bigger crank not sure how itd work on a road going car/long periods of time if i was rolling copper not steel id be using that method/might do when i reuse/jew up on gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 did a full race season before being gutted for bigger crank not sure how itd work on a road going car/long periods of time if i was rolling copper not steel id be using that method/might do when i reuse/jew up on gasket Ahh that's what I was wondering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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