punk_a_saurus Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 hey guys i drove the datsun out onto the road a few weeks ago and it was running like shit... misfire etc and pissing out black shit from the exhaust.. and when i went to start it yesterday there was no spark at all??? what could be wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SloNLo Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 start at the basics points are set right? 12v to coil? trigger wire connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Does it have a L24E or is it carby? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 yeah check the basics Do you have 12v to coil Do you have points gap set correct Are yuor spark plugs fouled, and if so, replace, dont try and clean Also, if replacing dont use NGK, they are good plugs for efi but i find champions work very well on carby cars Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Fuck off Allan. Champions are for Lawnmowers. I've always ran NGK on my carb'd L's and to good effect. Just make sure you get the right heat-range, same as any plug. L's usually run a BP6ES though if they're fouling a bit then a BP5ES will do the trick. (I will now also run NGKs on my triples even if they cause problems, just to be stubborn and prove a point/fail hard.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_a_saurus Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 its l24 single carb. i replaced the plugs and drove about 12 miles... could the plugs still have fouled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_a_saurus Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 great. fuck. how will i know if they are fouled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Have you checked the points and condensor?? If the points are closed it will not run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raredat Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 an easy and cheap thing to change is the condensor and you may get a good result from changing that to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_a_saurus Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 i checked the points and they are opening all good....... what could be causing the plugs to foul? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 honestly and I say this without trying to be a prick - this kind of thing is near impossible to e-diagnose - my advice is to get an old car savvy mate to check it out and you watch over his shoulder to do some learning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 great. fuck. how will i know if they are fouled? They'll be wet/damp and covered in fuel/oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Thought I'd copy/write this up. Courtesy of NGK FAQs - Spark Plugs Q: How do I "read" a spark plug? A: Being able to "read" a spark plug can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the insulator firing nose color, an experienced engine tuner can determine a great deal about the engine's overall operating condition. In general, a light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition. Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap. If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition - depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip. Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and possible engine damage. Normal Condition An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally. Dry and Wet Fouling Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon. Overheating When a spark plug overheats, deposits that have accumulated on the insulator tip melt and give the insulator tip a glazed or glossy appearance. Depostis The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel quality and the engine's operating duration. Lead Fouling Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance. Breakage Breakage is usually caused by thermal expansion and thermal shock due to sudden heating or cooling. Normal Life A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of gap growth are as follows: Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles) Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000 miles) Abnormal Erosion Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and reaction with lead - all resulting in abnormal gap growth. Melting Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F) Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough. Lead Erosion Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures; crystal of nickel alloy fall off because of the lead compounds permeating and seperating the grain boundary of the nickel alloy. Typical lead erosion causes the surface of the ground electrode to become thinner, and the tip of the electrode looks as if it has been chipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_a_saurus Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 chur for the advice. oldschool are straight GC's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusted Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Thought I'd copy/write this up. Courtesy of NGKFAQs - Spark Plugs Q: How do I "read" a spark plug? A: Being able to "read" a spark plug can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the insulator firing nose color, an experienced engine tuner can determine a great deal about the engine's overall operating condition. In general, a light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition. Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap. If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition - depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip. Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and possible engine damage. Normal Condition An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally. Dry and Wet Fouling Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon. Overheating When a spark plug overheats, deposits that have accumulated on the insulator tip melt and give the insulator tip a glazed or glossy appearance. Depostis The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel quality and the engine's operating duration. Lead Fouling Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance. Breakage Breakage is usually caused by thermal expansion and thermal shock due to sudden heating or cooling. Normal Life A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of gap growth are as follows: Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles) Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000 miles) Abnormal Erosion Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and reaction with lead - all resulting in abnormal gap growth. Melting Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F) Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough. Lead Erosion Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures; crystal of nickel alloy fall off because of the lead compounds permeating and seperating the grain boundary of the nickel alloy. Typical lead erosion causes the surface of the ground electrode to become thinner, and the tip of the electrode looks as if it has been chipped. Quote of the month!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.