Mr.Mk1 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Hey guys, Can someone please scan their Haynes Manual or the like and post up how to Set the timing on a Kent? The one in mind is my early 1600 from Mk2 Cortina, but all should be the same. I cant even find a link online. I got it from cranking over, to fising, to able to drive, but thirsty, to going fine, not it runs on and pops and farts under revs in 4th.. Its driving me insane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I've still got a 'scrotum book about somewhere, it should have it in. Come get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 I actually would, But would have holes in my Pistons that werent factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Alright, I'll scope it out tonight for you if no-one else responds/sorts it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Are you confident that you don't have a vacuum leak? Do you have a timing light? If so set the total advance with the engine over 3,000rpm to 28 degrees. That is safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Confident theres no leak, as it was closing points due to shagged dizzy, so ive has the whole thing out and swapped it, swapped points, condensor, rotor etc. Its just timing. Also, I dont know how to physically time the engine either,so advance and degrees are all *shrug* Yea can get timing light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Can't find the book. Not sure where the hell I put it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Under your pillow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Found it. Will take it in to work and see if I can find the relevant info then scannage if it's there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Many thanks Mr Dobalina, Mr Bob Dobalina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 This book is useless. Cheers Haynes. Has settings for a million things but doesn't explain anything except entirely mundane things including "Service Station Filling Facts", but the bitch has a mean MkII Popular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 i have a genuine ford escort manual in my locker at work . ill check for you chap . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 ok according to book it is 6deg BTC , total mech for 1.1 and 1.6 is 6.25 -8.25 , vacuum is 5-8 deg and total is 11.25-16.25 deg thess are figure from a genuine ford escort manual , not haynes , gregorys etc.. oh btw this folder is for sale chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 I think a 1600 is better at about 9 degrees static. As UJ says, the vacuum advance should get it up to round about 30 degrees. We used to advance it as far as possible without it kicking back when trying to start it. Pretty amateurish, but it used to work ok (: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Are you confident that you don't have a vacuum leak?Do you have a timing light? If so set the total advance with the engine over 3,000rpm to 28 degrees. That is safe on that note , my 1600 esky was running 45 total ... no pinking or anything / i would be amazed if that car was still on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 ^ Low'N'slow had his Pinto set up to near 50 degrees and it went very well. He reckoned it started OK too, but I backed it off to low 30s. I couldn't believe it hadn't grenaded but it will be interesting to see the piston crowns when he next pulls the head off. I guess it goes to show that with an older, slightly worn N/A engine that is running too rich you can get away with ridiculous advance, and sometime is even makes the engine run better. Anyway - Mr.Mk1 does not know how to set the advance so I think he needs someone to go and give him a hand, or he needs to take it to a mechanic as I expect there is more to do than just the timing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hey unkajake, my brother who lives here in the village too is the man with Ford engines, but hes flat out with his own engineering business and expecting a kid any time soon, so im hesitant to ask him for (another) hand. Hes the bloody reason i dont know how to time them as hes always done it Ill just have to wait until his workload subsides i guess. Cheers lads, I do feel if any good info comes up, it should be put in Tech section for others as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 hey dont know if this is any help but ill post anyway, just scanned it out of a manual ive got, only covers up to 1300gt though >.< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 i got a sore neck from reading that. this how i did my xflow before i went elec ignition. -Set your crank at 8-10 deg before tdc on the no1 firing stroke (you know how) -pull dizzy cap, rotor off and loosen clamp -use your multimeter put + lead on points, - lead on dizzy (earth), set to 12v -switch key on -turn the dizzy anti clockwise till points close. then back till points just open/ multimeter reads zero. -tighten clamp, replace rotor and cap. -take for thrash to confirm timing DONE You have to make sure the rotor is pointing in the right direction could be out a tooth etc. Can go to 16 deg btcd depending on cam. standard 1600 should be sweet on 10 deg btcd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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