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Hillman 1725 engines


RT

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200 bucks.. sheesh

I could get twin stromburgers on my hillman for that.

Need a dirty garage electronic conversion please

there are some on trademe for the mo for 90 buks....a steal really. the guy has a heap of go go bits, extractors, ported head etc

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Used to run a set of those twin stromby's on the standard GT mani. Went real well. But you could use up a lot more gas with your foot flat. And to get the water flow you just have to cut the heater feed pipe and plum it on to each end of the mani. So the water flows from the pump into the mani and out the other side to the heater core. This is how they came from the factory. If you have a hunter hand book it has a illustration of this setup.

If your worried about throwing away horse power from heating the manifold then just dont connect the water jacket up. I've run it both ways and found that with it connected you didn't need to run the choke for very long.

Someone used to make an adaptor to fit a single 45mmDCOE or DHLA to this type mani. I custom made one and it worked real well. not as good as running twin DCOE's but didn't have the problems of ballencing.

Would be a good buy for someone as long as the carbs are not very worn. Be prepaired to rekit them and watch for spindle wear.

The Haynes manual will be your best friend for tunning them.

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Dizzy. Anything goe's. I use a hatachi unit off a bluebird CA20C. I chose this unit as it turn anticlockwise and when you use the blubird coil it only need one feed wire. I made a rather interesting adaptor plate and chopped a bit out of the dissy mounting serface. The cap also needed to be turned 180deg to stop it hitting the side cover. I will have to get a camra one of these days.

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Is there a problem running twim stromburgers in a minx since the engine sits upright rather than cantered like in the hunters?

Also, do the manifold for the twins from an alloy head motor fit a iron head?

As far as I can tell there is no reson why you can't run the twins on a straight up and down motor. If you use the large metel air cleaner box that comes with the twin strombers it probley wont fit in the engine bay of the minx, so would need to find something else for air cleaner(s).

And no the alloy head manifold wont fit on the cast iron head block.

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when twin carbs have been over hauled, do they just need to be balanced to ensure everything runs fine?

There is two types of strombers that the hillmans use a CD3/150 or and CDS/150. If my memory serves me the twins only came out with CD3's on the Hunters. It can be a CD3 or CDS on a single carb setup. These carb look almost the same but have some big differences.

I big thing to check when putting the carbs back together is to make sure the carbs have matching:

1. Needles (check at top and bottem of needle with a micrometer)

2. Needle seat orifice size

3. Dash pot sping length and weight

4. Both dash pots have the non riged needle fixing.

5. Fuel bowl valves have the same rateing.

6. Fuel floats are set at the same hight.

As people have played around over the years trying to get an optimal set up they often try parts out of other carbs and can give some good results but often end up with a missmatching carbs. Its common to get a CD3 with a CDS dash pot in it. This works well in a single carb setup but make twin's nearly untuneable. ( I had this problem with mine )

When the carbs are all clean and put back together and on the motor there are 3x things you will have to do.

1. Centralise the needle seats

2. Fuel mixture

3. Carb balllence

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ive reassembled my carbs many times.. on my twin carb manifold, there is no hole for the spring screw to go in? the throttle return spring, where do i put the spring? or do i even need one?

Have you had the Carbs up and running on your motor before??

If it's a factory setup they have a location for the throttle return spring to attach to the air cleaner housing and the throttle. If it's a GT or GLS model it should have twin choke cables. If not you will need to get a twin choke setup or devise a suitable linkage setup to make both chokes operate off the single cable.

would be a bit nasty starting from cold with only one choke activating.

And yes it does need a return spring as the motor does make plenty of vacumm and can overcome the small radial springs on the carb's shaft's. I've had the return spring snap before and the throttle jammed half on. It wouldn't jam every time but wasn't very safe.

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