bubblegoose Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 yes, i dont have the part number to hand but there cheap if you go to a moped shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 do you know how long the single cable side is?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 nope but its push bike brake cable spec so easy to make a longer one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 do you just solder it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 solder or bolt on cable ends are available, they have a small grub screw inside them to clamp the cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 ah yep. still got a few people who might have a standard one before i have to go and do stuff like that so i'll see how they turn out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Pic is a bit big lol. will make images smaller next time This is how I got around running a twin cable for years. Just stoll another bracket off a carb and mounted a short cable like this between the two carbs. works real well and doesn't look out of place once the air cleaner is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 This is Just a demo of what its starting to look like, this motor needs rebuilt too. I've got a fresh motor to drop in the car but just using an old motor to play with, incase I damage something. Started on some new exstractors. Again just with bends and a hacksaw and a few tacks with the welder at the moment. This one is a comprimise of flow and being compatable with all aftermarket and factory intakes. Also allows the engine mounts and starter motor to be removed and worked on with no hassle. As you will know the 1725 is good at smashing engine mounts once there tuned up. These were also to make room for my dry-deck bye pass for the cooling water, that runs to the back of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 What sort of mounts would your recommend? Custom made ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 It's just the Rubber part that pulls apart normaly. I ended up putting a solid block of steel inplace of the rubber, but does make the car vibrate a bit. Have been looking into replacing the rubber mount with some sort of poly to stop the vibrations and be stronger than rubber. Aparently the Hunter is one of the first cars to have crumple zones and the rubber mounts holding the motor in, are key to allow the motor to come away from the car in a major accident. So by modifying the mounts in anyway may effect the cars safty badly. The motor and box in a roll over or a large head on should brake away. Just pitty anyone else in the drivelines flight path. So yea take consideration when you change the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Found an old cell phone pic of the motor all set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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