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Supercluck's Skoda 110L


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Sorry I can't help with the speedo (the only sort of solution I can come up with is perhaps the cable is corroded in a certain place and it's sticking?) but that is an absolutely gorgeous car.

I know these things don't have the kindest of reputations either, but I have long held a soft spot for them. Look after it :D

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Yeah gotta say I like these old skoda's, was very tempted by one on trademe a while ago.

Jumping speedo is I think a symptom of a broken/worn speedo cable, well it was on my toyota corolla, a skoda could be a whole different kettle of fish.

If it was me thats where I would be looking 1st though.

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beautiful

speeedo cable might be entering the speedo head at an angle, hence, the moving of the head straightens it and frees up the tight spot.

gearchange thing may be something as simple as a misaligned, unlubed or worn linkage.

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These cars are rear-engined RWD aren't they? Would they have a cable-driven speedometer? If they do, no wonder it wobbles around!

My car has an electric speedo which flicks around when the electrical connections play up.

With the gearbox thing, it wouldn't hurt to check the oil level.

Also, have you tried double clutching? Basically when changing from 3rd to 2nd, begin by shifting to neutral, take your foot off the clutch, give a quick rev to approximately the revs you expect the engine to be doing if you were in 2nd at that road speed, put your foot back on the clutch and engage 2nd. The exact technique might vary a bit between cars, but this helps me change down more easily in my 33s. It is pretty essential if I hope to get into 1st while the car's moving! It might also be something Skoda drivers have to live with. Just tell yourself it's forcing you to think ahead and become a better driver / legendary gearbox ninja. :P

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Skoda, mean!!

Had heaps of these over the years 110's 110r's etc all good cars

The reputation Skoda got was not deserved, problem was people confused them with Lada's

The gearbox is an easy fix, the clutch definitely needs adjustment, get into the compartment behind the back seat, remove the panel covering gearbox and adjust the rod till thers 2ml of freeplay.

You'll find the gearbox fill point there as well Drain when hot and fill with Castrol Syntrax.

Bet its never been changed, the gearboxes are tough as

Trust me i've tried to kill them

As with the speedo, definitely a cable lubrication issue, oil it as everytime I greased one it would get worse

Then do this

Skoda-110-Tuning-Cup-CZ-2.jpg

or get real mad

0112ui.jpg

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Thanks for the comments, yes they are rear engine and rwd. Ive got no problem adjusting the clutch but where do i measure the 2ml ( i assume to mean 2mm :D ) of freeplay from?

Where do you oil the cable at.

I have tried doube clutching before but want entirely sure of the method and i always seemed to forget to give myself extra time as i took my foot off the brake and then the cars in front would suddenly get really close in front lol.

I really enjoy cars but know have diffulculty sussing things out so thanks for the help.

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i would suggest graphite powder to lube the cable (so shit doesnt stick to it)

a little trick you may find handy is that when you are shifting into a non syncro gear (probably 1st and reverse)

try moving the lever half into another gear (e.g. second before going into 1st). This lets you "borrow" the syncro from the other gear (really you are in a way pre-loading the box) and gives you a much easier change

2mm doesnt seem right to me>

i would set it up so there is 2cm free travel in the clutch pedal before it engages (thats what the morrie manual says anyways)

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I have tried doube clutching before but want entirely sure of the method and i always seemed to forget to give myself extra time as i took my foot off the brake and then the cars in front would suddenly get really close in front lol.

If you're doing it while braking, see if you can keep pressure on the brake pedal with your toes / ball of your foot and use your heel / side of your foot to blip the throttle. May be difficult depending on relative pedal positionings in the Skoda. I find it's only necessary or possible to do this when you're driving hard - the rest of the time I brake as normal then worry about the gear when I need to accelerate again. If I've slowed enough I may not need double clutching to engage the lower gear.

This is making me depressed that my company car's an auto.. :(

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The pushrod from the slave cylinder is adjustable and thats where the problem usually is...

Never had to adjust pedals before, hydraulic systems are usually sweet in that department

Good idea to flush the fluid out too, bets its blacker than the ace of spades.

Wouldnt worry bout double declutching, the synchros in those boxes are tough as

plus with 5 metres of throttle cable and two metres of gear linkage, not to mention 3 metres of hydraulic clutch line your never gunna synchronise all three!

Wiggle the clutch lever into the gearbox and thats where you should feel the two mm of freeplay

2mm there = alot at the other end...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for the help. Have tried adjusting the clutch but the lock nut and adjusting nut just seem to spin together and not actually adjust the clutch. Will try again and look at changing gearbox oil this weekend.

Anyway it has started overheating a bit. i think this is because rediator cap is stuffed so am getting a new one, i also checked the engine oil level which was a bit low. I am unsure on what grade oil to top it up with and cant seem to find it in my manual.

Also borgweiser how fast did your skodas go, my one seems to top out at 100 or so and is very loud sitting there, tend to cruise at about 80 .

Thanks Marcus

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  • 1 month later...

Okay have tried a few things now and the car is still overheating and losing water on any journey so it is pointless driving it anywhere. Had a mechanic look at it and the problem is still not sorted. Have bled radiator and checked for air bubbles etc. and do not know what is wrong. The water is being lost out the overflow pipe, am pretty sure that i brought the right radiator cap there seems to be pressure when i push it down but maybe i needed a long neck one? am unsure

Does any one know of what the problem could be?

Or does anyone know if i have to drain it from the heater as well- the manual seems to allure to that but doesn't make it seem necessary and confused me a bit.

Also does any one have contact details for the skoda club- i have lost mine and need some parts/ pick their brains

Have also sussed out why i couldn't change into second- was trying to shift down to quick, if i slow it down i can get it in fine. Still going to give it an oil change soon

Sorry for all the questions but i appreciate any help.

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Not good news mate, it sounds grim has the car used lots of antifreese/corrosion inhibitor in the past?

Sounds like the coolant's been forced out by combustion gas..

Skoda's of your age run wet liner motors which are known to come loose if corroded internally

Fill it up with chemweld for now

You can drain heater by lifting out left rear seat squab and turning tap at base of heater

best to remove hoses and lift heater out by unbolting from underneath and put the hose through it and flush the shit out.

The heater is the lowest point on their cooling system and need flushing regularly

Will track down Skoda club details for ya

Unless you just want to sell it to me, could be keen

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That sounds expensive to fix properly.

Will try draining it from the heater possibly an air bubble?/ im just looking for other solutions that do not sound so bad but most probably wrong :(

Hasn't used antifreeze before a while ago- was driving home once and saw the temperature gauge creeping up so pulled over left it for an hour or so then topped it up. When i took the radiator cap off it practically fell apart in my hands with spring, top part and bottom part all coming apart. That is when my problems started- brought a new radiator cap flushed it etc a while later because it was losing water. but the problem seemed to be getting gradually worse. Which is why i thought it could be the radiator cap being wrong size or something espically because i seem to remember it being 5/70 but now it is 4/30. just got lady at store to pick right size. Threw out the old one so have no way of justifying/ proving this. Also thought maybe i need the longer neck cap to build more pressure but this one seems to touch bottom and compress so i asume it is the right one.

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