Supercluck

Sweet thanks for the info, will start reading the heavy vehicle rode code. Sounds like the other prices I've been given. Have an ex firetruck to learn to drive in haha.

Trying to find whats the cheapest way to get my truck license in Christchurch. Been looking round and no one say prices haha. Just wondered if someone had looked into it before, seems pretty pricy no matter how I do it. Otherwise will start ringing around people

Sup all, drove this from Whangarei to Christchurch at the start of the year, didnt miss a beat the whole way was excellent motoring. Couldnt convince my flatmates to come with me or any one else for that matter, no one but me seemed to think it would make it the whole way haha. Have got much more confident undertaking work on the car so ive been able to solve all the problems that have come up so far and do work thats required for a warrant, dont know if you could tell before but i wasnt too confident doing anything cause i though i would break it or make it worse. Much happier to give it a crack now, and if it doesnt work out, well i can ask for help i guess. Anyway have small problem, i think the alternator/generator has stopped working had to get a push to get me home from hockey. Dont have a battery charge to charge the battery than check the voltage when car is running, anyone in Christchurch able to lend me one. What are the things to check, guess i check the earth the battery and what the voltage going into the battery when its running and when its off. before i turned the car off i had the lights on and revved it to see if they got brighter when it was at higher revs, but there was no change, which is why i though charging rather than battery. battery is 4 months old so dont think its that. Heres some average pictures from the drive down

That sounds expensive to fix properly. Will try draining it from the heater possibly an air bubble?/ im just looking for other solutions that do not sound so bad but most probably wrong Hasn't used antifreeze before a while ago- was driving home once and saw the temperature gauge creeping up so pulled over left it for an hour or so then topped it up. When i took the radiator cap off it practically fell apart in my hands with spring, top part and bottom part all coming apart. That is when my problems started- brought a new radiator cap flushed it etc a while later because it was losing water. but the problem seemed to be getting gradually worse. Which is why i thought it could be the radiator cap being wrong size or something espically because i seem to remember it being 5/70 but now it is 4/30. just got lady at store to pick right size. Threw out the old one so have no way of justifying/ proving this. Also thought maybe i need the longer neck cap to build more pressure but this one seems to touch bottom and compress so i asume it is the right one.

No that bad- was better than the trucks when i did that. Think i will drain and flush again but this time try to use the heater valve thing this time. Maybe it will make a difference?

Okay have tried a few things now and the car is still overheating and losing water on any journey so it is pointless driving it anywhere. Had a mechanic look at it and the problem is still not sorted. Have bled radiator and checked for air bubbles etc. and do not know what is wrong. The water is being lost out the overflow pipe, am pretty sure that i brought the right radiator cap there seems to be pressure when i push it down but maybe i needed a long neck one? am unsure Does any one know of what the problem could be? Or does anyone know if i have to drain it from the heater as well- the manual seems to allure to that but doesn't make it seem necessary and confused me a bit. Also does any one have contact details for the skoda club- i have lost mine and need some parts/ pick their brains Have also sussed out why i couldn't change into second- was trying to shift down to quick, if i slow it down i can get it in fine. Still going to give it an oil change soon Sorry for all the questions but i appreciate any help.

Thanks for the help. Have tried adjusting the clutch but the lock nut and adjusting nut just seem to spin together and not actually adjust the clutch. Will try again and look at changing gearbox oil this weekend. Anyway it has started overheating a bit. i think this is because rediator cap is stuffed so am getting a new one, i also checked the engine oil level which was a bit low. I am unsure on what grade oil to top it up with and cant seem to find it in my manual. Also borgweiser how fast did your skodas go, my one seems to top out at 100 or so and is very loud sitting there, tend to cruise at about 80 . Thanks Marcus

okay my manual says 2 inchs of cluth pedal freeplaybut it says that is adjusted by the pedal stop screws whereas the clutch operating rod which is under the back seat is adjusted elsewhere.

Thanks for the comments, yes they are rear engine and rwd. Ive got no problem adjusting the clutch but where do i measure the 2ml ( i assume to mean 2mm ) of freeplay from? Where do you oil the cable at. I have tried doube clutching before but want entirely sure of the method and i always seemed to forget to give myself extra time as i took my foot off the brake and then the cars in front would suddenly get really close in front lol. I really enjoy cars but know have diffulculty sussing things out so thanks for the help.

Hey, have been driving round the car a lot more now that i have my full and have more places to get to. Anyway have had a couple of problems that i thought i would ask here about, will add some photos as well. Anyway the most annoying problem is that it has great diffulculty in changing down gears from 3rd to 2cd whic means i often have to stop at giveways or just go out in third which is less than ideal. Is this the synchro that is gone or does it need more oil or what? It tends to be able to change down when going up a steep hill which is probably when it needs it most . The other problem which is weird the speedo flicks up and down a lot but if i pull the speedo unit across to the left the speedo stops fliuckering about and becomes steady like a normal speedo. If someone could help answer these it would be much appreciated.

Thanks for all the help after screwing around and really not doing anything, i got some help and now it goes. After replacing the contacts, condensor and fuel pump to find that there was a split in the fuel pump intake. So replaced the 15cm of pipe and it starts but it is not running well. On the fuel pump outlet am i meant to draw all air out of it and if so how do i do that? Can i just use a syringe (we got an avocado orchard and have oodles) and just draw/ pull the fuel out? Thanks

He said it had no spark though, still will take the plugs out and check. Do you check there is a spark by taking the plugs out, putting the leads on and then grounding the thread and cranking the engine and you should see a spark. I think i saw someone do that once? Is that right or just crazy rambling.

Na i dont think i flooded it because i tried about 4 or 5 times to start it at different times and we tried to push start but it wouldnt even fire. He fiddled round with the distributor for a while, and got me to turn the engine over for a while. Looking at the distributor. Kind of knows us okay so it was free. Mum seems to know him quite well an he is happy to help me and teach me a bit. BUt i might try to start it again. How do you dry the plugs.

The mechanic just came over and had a look. He said the condensor has broken. Dumb. Now ive got to wait for a new one.

Haha okay should i give it a prime when i try to start it?

okay thanks alot, will try a bit more once the battery is charged. Also is it commen for fuel pumps to have a priming lever, i thought that was only for lawnmowers?

It was running fine, but was always a little hard to start. It had never given me trouble. The brakes failed so i hadnt driven it for a week or two then it wouldnt start. And i need it to go so the mechanic can help me with the brakes. How could they firing order of been changed

Okay thanks ill tey again today. Also a little while back i sprayed engine start down the air filter then tryed to start it. it fired then stopped and then i went to have a look and there was smoke pouring out of the air filter. i took it off and it was on fire. but went out quickly. why would the air filter catch on fire?

I dont know a lot about this, but keen to learn. My skoda isnt starting and i dont know why. I checked the sparkplugs and cleaned them, it turns over but wont fire at all. What would be the next thing for me to check. And on the off chance does anyone know the stud pattern for rear engine Skodas. Thanks

I got a little and just want to know best way to remove, do i sand it down then use high temp paint? Totally new at this sought of stuff but keen to learn Cheers

I could be keen to come in the Skoda. Depends on date and stuff

This is my car, 76' Skoda, only had one lady owner before me only done about 35,000kms. Still got shiny paint work from 32 years ago. Pretty happy with it. Only on my restricted license right now so im happy with it as my first car. Dont think Im gonna do any mods to it. Anyway here are some pics'. Some of the color in the photos are quite off its propably most like photo 4 and 6 not like that poached egg yolk color. We bought a VW offroader of trademe not going but now its not. The brake master cylinder had a leak so now its got no brakes. Apparently need new seals is that right and where do i get them from? Pictures

Another Whangarei member here