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weber 32 36 carb issues


Mint69

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Having some issues with the carb on my cortina. it always starts fine but it wont idle properly and ive adjusted the idle once its warm.when idling you can also hear it change without touching the car and it idles to high so i've adusted it and then it idles to low so i have tweaked it slightly to get it right but it wont stay at the right idle for long (800rpm). It also sounds like its sucking in a hell of a lot of air when you accelerate but once beyond a certain point it sounds fine. I had the carb apart the other week and put new diaphrams in and cleaned out the bowl and tested it once back together by reving it and then covering up the top so that any remaining junk in the carb should have been cleared out. Anyone else had issues similar to this and know how to fix it? better yet anyone know anywhere in dunedin that tunes carbs as im sick of this one and am prepared to pay someone to fix it and tune it to suit car.

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I feel your frustration, my 32 36 played up for six odd months had a doz people look at it with no luck for ages! cleaned it out a doz times and adjusted absolutly everything! tried three different 32/32 carbs all with similar results.

The car had a anoying fluctuating idle and you couldn't tune the car at all as it was.

I think the solution was one of, or all three of the following things we did;

Nick gave it a going over he gloogled the size of what every single piece that made up the carb was supposed to be for a 2L and some of the jets etc were all the incorrect size. so they were replaced etc.

Propper carb cleaner was used and then blown through with air compressor, everything was made spotless.

and a complete re build kit was used for the re assembly.

slapped it on and she ran / ideled like a dream the 1st time.

Also chack thet the idles screw still has its seal that stops it moving in and out.

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mine has an auto choke. Will check all the bits you've mentioned and let you know. Might have to go te repco and get another carb kit. bllody frustrating alright. car goes well when its on the open road, thats another thing. once i've taken for a drive on the open road and slowe back down again i put my foot on the cluth to stop and it used to die. hasnt done that in a few weeks after we tweaked a few things but that was anotehr issue i had with it.

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Main things I found with Chirs' carb:

Put new o-rings on the adjusting screws and anywhere else they are (real little o rings)

Dont use gasket goo anywhere

Check all of your jet sizes as they are probably all mixed up. Also make sure they are all in the right places.

Don't eat the carb cleaner. I know it smells like lollies but it won't taste like them too...

I took a whole evening rebuilding Chris' carb but in the end it was worth it.

Nick

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Having some issues with the carb on my cortina. it always starts fine but it wont idle properly and ive adjusted the idle once its warm.when idling you can also hear it change without touching the car and it idles to high so i've adusted it and then it idles to low so i have tweaked it slightly to get it right but it wont stay at the right idle for long (800rpm). It also sounds like its sucking in a hell of a lot of air when you accelerate but once beyond a certain point it sounds fine. I had the carb apart the other week and put new diaphrams in and cleaned out the bowl and tested it once back together by reving it and then covering up the top so that any remaining junk in the carb should have been cleared out. Anyone else had issues similar to this and know how to fix it? better yet anyone know anywhere in dunedin that tunes carbs as im sick of this one and am prepared to pay someone to fix it and tune it to suit car.

Your running a 32/36 on a 1600 ? Is the engine modified? I believe there is only a couple of 32/36 Models suited to a 1600, otherwise they can overfuel at idle

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sweet as, hopefully if i do all the bits you did with yours it should be sweet after that. off to repco it is. Will post a pic of the auto choke later in the avo as im pretty sure its not the normal auto choke.

before you run off to repco. what parts do you need? iv a box of nos carb parts - would hook oldschool boe up stz

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Hi, I'm John from wellington. What exact model carb is it. There are only two 32/36 version you cam use with a standard or GT camshaft. I have several reconditioned like new 32 DGAV 5E carbs that have been rebushed by weber in Auckland. The problem might be that the primary shaft with the butterfly plate on it is loose in the housing. If you can lift the shaft up and down or side to side then it is shot and it is impossible to get good idle. I had the same issue as you years ago. Also the only carbs with the correct progressive idle holes in the housing for 1600 engines is the following 32 DGAV 5E 32 DGAV 6E (auto) 32/36 DGV 7A 32/36 DGAV 3B. All others have larger idle holes and are very rich at low RPM and at idle. This makes the idle screw adjustment very hard to determine. I think it is the shaft problem you are having. Teflon bushes can be put in your carb for $100 including P&P in Auckland. I am in Australia for work at the moment but will be back home in WGTN on May 6th. can help further then. Check also the crank case breather PCV valve is not blocked open and put a vacuum gauge on the manifold to determine further what state the vacuum really is. Cylinder compressions should be taken with FOT as the carb will not allow idle if the vacuum is uneven. hope this helps, regards John

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Having some issues with the carb on my cortina. it always starts fine but it wont idle properly and ive adjusted the idle once its warm.when idling you can also hear it change without touching the car and it idles to high so i've adusted it and then it idles to low so i have tweaked it slightly to get it right but it wont stay at the right idle for long (800rpm). It also sounds like its sucking in a hell of a lot of air when you accelerate but once beyond a certain point it sounds fine. I had the carb apart the other week and put new diaphrams in and cleaned out the bowl and tested it once back together by reving it and then covering up the top so that any remaining junk in the carb should have been cleared out. Anyone else had issues similar to this and know how to fix it? better yet anyone know anywhere in dunedin that tunes carbs as im sick of this one and am prepared to pay someone to fix it and tune it to suit car.

Your running a 32/36 on a 1600 ? Is the engine modified? I believe there is only a couple of 32/36 Models suited to a 1600, otherwise they can overfuel at idle

Yep my engine is bored out to 60 thou over, with gt spec lumpy cam, 1300 ported and polished head and 1300 pistons. I have had the carb looked at by a guy down home who has tuned hundreds of engines and he did mine and it ran really well up until now. It was bloody good on gas. always started. I had a small issue with the car trying to start itself when i switched it off but found out it was running on the progressive idle so that was fixed. Its only in the last 2 or 3 weeks im having issues. My dad whos an auto sparky by trade cheked it all so i trust he knows what he's doing. As far as the parts go any NOS for a weber 32 36 I will be more than happy to have, what parts do you have tortron?

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My 2c, make sure that the secondary butterfly's are being held shut by the wee spring when it's idling. I have a corty that idled all over the show. The secondaries were pulsing just a wee bit and fucking withow it idled.

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