EFI_LC Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Ok so I rebuilt a motor a while back and after a promising 14.2@95mph from the first full meeting it entered I have been making minor changes and was out at the Musclecar Drag racing on the weekend and I now feel a 12 is possible with a few more minor changes and I was on pump gas. I would be interested in any comments and any suggestions. 13.194@103.21mph 202 Black motor Flat tops Std Rods Yella Terra 12-port (Cleaned up but no other porting) Kelford Cam (Hot street cam) 3 x 45DCOE webers std Ignition std clutch std flywheel (lightened) std M20 gearbox (done around 800-900 drag races) std 3.55:1 Open diff 205x60x14 Bridgestone Potenza GIII Engine pulls like a schoolboy down low then lets rip over 4000rpm This is a budget built engine that I have considered selling but now I am so close to a 12 I would like to really go for it now so I am open to any suggestion. Possible things to try: Change dif to 3.9:1 Lock the diff Avgas More advance (10 degrees at present) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 could look at other areas such as a heavy duty clutch so you are able to rev a bit higher and then dump without fear of slipping, as well as an LSD (or just locked diff), and possibly short shifter and good gearbox oil to help with quick gear changes. some weight reduction can't go amiss either. Well done for getting it that quick given the mods you've done so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 The picture tells the story. One wheel drive can't be the best for a drag car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 That's a damn good time dude Pretty much agree with UJ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 what exhaust are ya running? lsd all good. more fuel and more spark. 1 piece drive shaft even. run stickier tyres? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Thanks guys. I have a Hilux with 4.1 gears slowly coming as money is tight it may be a while tho. The diff in it has been 'spooled' to help drive to both in the mean time. The clutch has never slipped yet and the gear changes are pretty slick I think. I am a bit concerned I will break the little axles as these diffs first saw action behind the 138 grey motor I have a few tricks that have helped me to get to here but as always I am open to some of those not so obvious hints or tricks. TBH It would be really something to get to 12's with the box, diff and clutch setup I have lol I have a couple of vids on youtube that you can check my gear changes if you like. I braked at the end so I never broke out in this. This shows when the second wheel grabbed and left 2 lovely black marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 thats a sweet time, let some pressure out of the current tyres? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 thats a sweet time, let some pressure out of the current tyres? Thanks, its been a great learning curve and I have kept a log book as well even though its driven on the street constantly. I have tried over a long period of time with pressures and each time showed 24-26PSI was the best pressure for my street rubber. I used to think 14PSI then 20-22 and even tried 28 but have know settled on 24. Also to answer an earlier question, I dropped the street exhaust off and bolted it to the side for the day. Heres the pics of both sides.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 keep the burnout at the start to a minimum i reckon. jsut scuff them up. street rubber really fails when you get any real heat into it. maybe look into a set of slicks, although 12s on street rubber with your combo would rule. look toward reducing weight up front, practicing starts, both for max performance from the line from your engine and reactions etc, optimise power with timing and stuff. make sure she's getting a nice flow of cold air, and traction. you perhaps wont need an lsd after that. congrats on getingt it so close so far though! you could've taken the easy route by slamming something more powerful in there but perserverance with an existing motor is choice. top marks form me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 keep the burnout at the start to a minimum i reckon. jsut scuff them up. street rubber really fails when you get any real heat into it.maybe look into a set of slicks, although 12s on street rubber with your combo would rule. look toward reducing weight up front, practicing starts, both for max performance from the line from your engine and reactions etc, optimise power with timing and stuff. make sure she's getting a nice flow of cold air, and traction. you perhaps wont need an lsd after that. congrats on getingt it so close so far though! you could've taken the easy route by slamming something more powerful in there but perserverance with an existing motor is choice. top marks form me Thanks, excellent advice. I hear ya on the scuffing as thats what I usually do however my last run I backed into the water and layed a good amount of rubber down for my fastest run. I think temperature on the day counts too. If you see the 1st vid I 'feel' the grip as I get near the line so i can try adjust to suit. I have done around 900 drag races with this car and have a feel for it but every time I make a power gain I have to re-adjust as it gets harder to stop wheelspin. It would so easy to bang a 5 link rear but that would mean certing an if i was to do that I would throw the W55 box in as well which is out of my budget at present. I wish I could try some slicks but 14" slicks are not easy to come by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 choice. shit that's alot of runs! differnet stud pattern to commodore too eh? coz commy 15" steels woudl be easy to get slicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hi there. it's Bart. I blew another motor, so I wont be racing for a while now. My advise, Locked diff. (I've heard that the hilux lsds aren't that flash when you put then under heavy loads) Sticky tyres. Splash out for some quick times or ET streets. And have some 15' steelies widened to suit. (out of my price range too) Nitrous oxide? (Again a big cash outlay, but should be able to shave off 3-4 tenths) Refit your EFI manifold, and sell you sidedrafts to fund a supercharger or turbo. Or both! (If I could easily get an efi manifold for my heap I'd be running that) remove the passengers and back seats. A bit less weight might be worth 1/2-1 tenth. Try running avgas with some aditional octane booster, and run as much advance as the motor can stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 lux diffs are sweet when they're tightened up but they're set loose as from factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 i dont no these engines, seems like advance is a bit low? tried advancing her up abit more? A near 12 second pass with 202 is pretty awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I know a bloke who runs one behind a 13B PP. He reckons they don't stay tight for long. He runs his locked. I once googled "hilux lsd" and the first result i came accross was a guy with a really new hilux whinging about how it would open wheel when he was four wheel driving. Car had like 20K kms on it, and the dealer he bought it off couldn't get it to stay tight. They are a fucking strong diff. And cheap. And plentiful. I haven't run one, so I guess I shouldn't be running my mouth about them. But I'm just regurgitating what I've been told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hey Bart, dam shame you never made it mate... some awesome cars turned up, I will post some pics of the ones I have. Yea I have been told the 4 spool is much stronger and they work like a LSD, might have to try and swap my LSD for a 4-spool. There are guys around that have spent half there lives trying to get there 202 doing a sub 14 and call it luck if you like but I have listened to the best 202 builder/tuner in Australasia and he lives right here in Canterbury, He built it originally and reset the cam to suit, he gave my carbs an initial tune by ear and the only dyno its ever been on is the Doyleston Dyno 202's are a terrible design which first saw production in 1963-86 The 4-speed is mid 60's until the Commodore The diff is '62 vintage and finished in the HQ Every other triple carb'd 202 I know that has been to Ruapuna hasnt been able to run below 15's except one and thats my mates full blooded race car. No to Nitrous No to turbo No to supercharger I am a N/A guy and this car runs only stock Holden parts, the carbs were an option and the head was designed by perfectune who supplied all the bathurst heads for the 6's and V8's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 202's are a terrible design which first saw production in 1963-86 I admire you frankness with that statement. Thats a bloody long production run too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84_S12 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Roller rockers and an increase in rocker ratio, followed up with a more accurate tune? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 It's no good advancing the timing and having to rely on guesswork. Fitting a knock sensor and knocklink would be worth it's weight in gold, likewise an oxygen sensor and monitor display. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84_S12 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Not too sure how that would go what with the extra grinding sparks and folopenin tube to power it all Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.