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bleeding brakes


WildPlumDx

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^ what he said, I had the Prince, Clutch & Brake masters and clutch slave, sleeved and rebuilt cost me over $300 all up, I forget specifics, but to get them sleeved and redone by APEX is a bit over $100, and kits and doing it yourself, as long as the master isn't fucked, will be fuckall.

We kitted my mates Poolude master, took a few seconds, fixed the brakes straight away. Fucking bang. Cost around $40 for the kit.

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yeah well the saga continues so far ive re kitted the cylinder was clean as inside no pitting etc well is made from alloy so it wont rust but chucked it all together bench bleed it put it all on, bleed the brakes everything looks sweet but the master still feels like its by passing, although no fluid escaping thru the back or anything everything fine but its still broke so my conclusion is the master is just stuffed for some "UNKNOWN" reason doesn't make sense but i think its time to buy a new one, i aint paying someone to do something so bloody simple, yet its being complicated :? new master i think was 117 and that on green card at repco so not to bad, should of done that from the start :(

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The only way to get all the air out of your system (particuarly with ABS) is to clamp off all the brake hoses and start bleeding by cracking off your master pipes then work from the R/H front to the L/H front to the R/H rear to the L/H rear. Taking of the clamp only where you are bleeding. This way you can find a problem before you get frustrated. If anything has a leak or is bypassing it will show up straight away due to it being isolated.

Its the only way the brake experts will have you do it.

Make sure you don't mix brake fuids either it can be another problem.

There are 3 types of brake fluid now: mineral based , vegetable based and synthetic.

They all have different properties and don't mix well. Also get the same DOT rating as mixing the ratings will alter the brake fade temperatures.

Any more questions ask and I may be able to help.

Corey

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fixed! my mate came round and sussed it and it was kinda embarrassing :oops: i put the new pads in wrong like in correct but in a set they have an outer and inner pad!? who knew? not me, so it was riding on the little metal lug that was spose to be on the other side and as i was putting my foot on the brake the caliper was twisting and making it feel as if there was air in the lines! crazy but yeah simple explanation for such a headache of a problem! i'm a Muppet :lol: also when he bleed the system we cracked the bleed nipple and left it cracked open as i pumped the brake much faster way, and air cant get back in due to the bleed nipple being under fluid coz of the pipe attached, man was it faster and easier and works just the same!

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As Fuel said, to do it that way you need a valve in the end but, it will suck air past the threads in the bleed nipple if it is left open.

It will be fine for a short time but then the spongy peedle will come back or the air will make its way to the callipers and wheel cylinders causing the fluid to boil prematurly.

Your mate has done it right but only half the job. Please make sure you bleed the brakes again as I described before to make sure the air is all out. I would hate you to add to this or start another thread saying your car was a wreck now.

The pads in a lot of cars have traps for most people and cars like the Audis can have the inside pad fall down when the rotor moves before you get the wheel back on.

Another trap is not having your rear brakes (if adjustable for discs) adjusted correctly allowing the air to stay in the line due to the fluid traveling past it.

Corey

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