crazy_rich Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 yeh, thought id check, i've got all the materials to run 3/8 lines, threw all the ford crap out, not worth working with. thought id check about pressure loss running with 3/8 lines, but she'll be right, back to Gaz's situation. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I used 3/8 for mine, but I wanted to ensure it was ok should I decide to go really big with an HX52 or something. 5/16 is fine for that power. 3/8 supports a lot of power. Do ensure your return lines are adequately sized though, preferably equal to the feed lines, but can be a little smaller. I had 5/16 feed to the engine, and 1/4 return. that would not have worked, so i ripped out the 1/4, moved the 5/16 over, and put 3/8 in it's place. 5/16 return half of the way back, stepping up (through overbored fittings) to 3/8 behind the cab. If your return is too small, at idle you will have too high a fuel pressure and at full noise, it will drop. this will make tuning a pain and or screw up an oem ecu. Fred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 Because I have no lines at the mo ( I do actually have a full length of braided 3/8th but I think it is from a carb setup so prob low pressure) I am going to go with 3/8 both ways. Prob try that new easy to bend stuff.. (cant member name of it). I know they do it for brake line so guess they can also do it for fuel? Guess the prob with running steel lines is the fixing of them at the pump/tank/rail ends of the systems. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 3/8 both ways is mint that will ensure you are problem free! Easy bend you say? bending 3/8 is a bitch for sure (by hand under a ute anyway lol) much harder than 5/16 or 1/4. If you get hold of that and its good, post the details here please. I know you have to fix the lines every X under the car, but I can't remember what X is. 200mm rings a bell, but it might have been 400 and I just went nuts as usual? Check with your cert guy about mounting it. If it has any shape to it, the normal mounts will define where the ends end up and how stiff they are. I attached mine together at the ends just like stock and they are solid as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 At the rail you should have some hose separating it from the engine by a decent amount anyway to allow the engine to move. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_0131.jpg bottom right corner, you can see the stockers just poking out. The white plastic clip is floating and the next one is maybe 100 - 150 or so below that and attached to the cab. Those are the original lines, I couldnt find any finished pics, but they terminate in the same place and have hoses up to the engine just like stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 300mm man, stainless p clamps with rubber are the go to hold them up with rivots. bnt shud have the bundy tube need. try to borrow a swaging tool to do the ends. 3/8 both ways is mint that will ensure you are problem free!Easy bend you say? bending 3/8 is a bitch for sure (by hand under a ute anyway lol) much harder than 5/16 or 1/4. If you get hold of that and its good, post the details here please. I know you have to fix the lines every X under the car, but I can't remember what X is. 200mm rings a bell, but it might have been 400 and I just went nuts as usual? Check with your cert guy about mounting it. If it has any shape to it, the normal mounts will define where the ends end up and how stiff they are. I attached mine together at the ends just like stock and they are solid as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vvega Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 can loan you a swaging tool and pipe benders if need be but you shoudl really use flared fittings on all presure conections ...just for your own peace of mind and saftey ....have flaring tools as well as well as adapters connectors etc also get you a good price on bundy tube or api line pipe if thats what your into wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted April 25, 2008 Author Share Posted April 25, 2008 Noob question. Whats bundy tube? Also lines are going to run inside car, prob still need clips to hold down but possiably not as many. So running the 10mm alloy pipe onto a rubber 10mm pipe with hoseclamps to hold isnt dodgy? It does/can look kinda shit. Guess there is movement at engine os I guess manditory. Can I use my brake flaring tool to flare my petrol lines? Will keep ya in mind Vvega for when I need to purchase it. Will prob talk to ya this weekend anyways if youll be at Spences? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 its usually plated steel tube on a roll, very thin wall. yea your brake flearing tool will do the trick but has to be double flear or ball flear. still will have to be mounted every 300mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 may be a bit pissed but if your going form steel to steel , please do a double flare ... if its rubber to steel however just do the first step ... makes it heaps easier to slid on and is far nicer on the rubber tube in terms of edges. and its been siad before ...bundy is steel pipe in rolls , airline , fuel line , brake line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 efi pumps are shithouse for dragging fuel from the tank, so you will have to mount a efi lift pump in tank. i got a carter mecahnical lift pump in my bay and it does he trick, also running 2 x vl turbo pumps after the surge and bigger injectors and i got masses of fuel. hmmm I've had no problem, I used a 400 bosh pump dragging the fuel out of the tank, 8mm lines both ways. Only issue I had with the 2L turbs was when I had 1/4 of a tank on full accleration it would surge to the back. I'm still gonna use the bosh 400 for the V8, but gonna re-baffle the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vvega Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Will keep ya in mind Vvega for when I need to purchase it. Will prob talk to ya this weekend anyways if youll be at Spences? Gaz i dont have a babysitter so i will make a brief visit otherwise your welcome to pop over on saterday ..ill prolly be down the workshop most of saterday anyways...spence knows teh way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Ok decided to go with a foam filled fuel cell and a surge tank. I was just going to run a fuel cell with no surge but apparently people still run surge tank with foam filled tanks if it is a track car. So that doesnt really cut my costs down haha. Also clutch update.. Performance Cover Part No Ref.N-022, uprated 33.% to 1600lbs from Standard 1200lb $247.50 + GST. Performance Disc Part No Ref AC225CK full faced Steelbacked Carbon Kevlar facing Matrix with Dampened Hub, handling your 250Kw $285.00 + GST. Stonegrind my flywheel $45.00 +GST Total = $640 incl GST Thats from autoclutch in Ak. Bit more than I want to spend I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 ^ you can get away with no surge on a well designed tank if you want to save costs,its not ideal on the last outing in the soarer it was low as on gas 1 bar on the graph light just coming on was fine on the factory tank just dont run it that low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vvega Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 i woudl have gone a bit higher clamp on teh pp...i woudl have like 2200ftpnd's price is not tobad though.... that kevlar is a dam sharp price better to spend to much now...and over spend...thna not spend enough...and waste all that money doing it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 i woudl have gone a bit higher clamp on teh pp...i woudl have like 2200ftpnd's +1 (and if you do, you can get away with a less expensive disk) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 Hrm point taken, will get another quote from them, might as well get clutch sorted now I guess. Also how can I tell if the clutch and plate in the car now is standard? It was a rally car and has had port work so maybe clutch work also?? After reassesing my whole situation (again) I think I may just run a stainless custom well baffled tank and no surge for now. It cuts down on costs as I have a guy that will do it for really cheap at work. With money sitting in the bank It is too easy just to spend it on expensive shit that isnt really needed (fuel cell). Guess Id be better off spending it on clutch as said above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vvega Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 id still go with teh kev/carb plate...such a good price to turn down and will be lush as its funny as ...there is no reason why a heavier pp shoudl cost more at all...there only useing heavier fingers...+ moving fulcum point just teh way that shit is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted May 2, 2008 Author Share Posted May 2, 2008 When I had my first car I sent my clutch.. or was it pp? away and had it made heavy duty. What would they have done then? Springs or fingers im guessing? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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