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isnowi's rancid EX gravel steed


CaMpylobacter

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Hey cheers for the comments, conversion was actually pretty easy, i did it into a sigma first, (which incidentally has about a 200 mm longer engine bay) then switched the whole lump and trans into the lancer.

Main dramas for rwd were thermostat housing (thats what i had dramas with yesterday), and that was about it really, exhaust is a bit rank, i have used a vr4 manifold and a pipe straight off it :oops: its pretty manky but only has to last as long as the motor, as there is a vr4 block sitting on my engine stand at the moment, i building that to std specs then i'll swap that in with a new fuel pump and some more plumbing and we'll be away and laughing.

motor is coming out this week in order to do some more work on the water neck, and to finish some work in the engine bay. I'll get some more shots whilst i'm doing that then it'll be away for a roll cage.. :twisted:

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

hah, thats some funny shit right there. WIll post some new pics up soon, have got all my new suspension in, all new brake lines, bias valve, and started on some of the panel work. My daily is eating up my time and money at the moment, really should leave it alone and finish the lancer.

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Yep.... If you are using the sigma crossmember then its too much to massage the firewall, as the bolt holes are about 15mm further back than the lancer crossmember, i'm using lancer crossmember with custom bottom arms (to get the neccessary camber) and starion struts/brakes, the CAS on the dohc motor rubs the firewall even after i had beat it, i have since taken a bit of heat to the area affected and managed to push it a little further, but it still looks as if the best thing to do is to recesss that part of the firewall. Hell i had to make a new tunnel anyway, so whats a little bit more sheetmetal...

I suppose you could either make new mounts, or slot the old ones, i wold be perty loath to slot somethiong that far though, and as for new mounts i'd want to be dam sure they were made right, at least using factory mounts they have been designed for the very purpose they are being used...

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  • 4 months later...

yeh, inlet is on. exlancerbuild024eu0.jpg

Has been running like that about 6 months ago, but i blew the hose off the end of the alloy pipe. Because the pipe is free to move, i can take the top hose off the radiator and pull it out of the way in order to get to the intake bolts. Ultimately i yhink i will ditch that manifold anyway, thinnking about quad throttles for it... 8)

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Probably go for black top 4age ones, plentiful and easy to adapt, GTiR ones are a bit naff, don't think they are any bigger than 4age and they are grouped in 2's like carbs, 4age should be compact enough to clear the strut tower (just) should sound pretty rorty too. In the meantime i'll just stick to the std induction, needto get it running again, has benn too long since ilast annoyed the neighbours.... :lol:

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  • 3 months later...

That could just happen in the near future, i am considering converting to 5 stud, gotta work out if theres a bolt on 5 stud hub, have heard that L300 use the same bearings, therefore bolt on, not sure what brakes i'll use though.

The big advantage is plentiful wheels in good offset. a la early falcon...etc

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Thought about bike carbs, and in some ways they may be better for the mid range torque i'd like, as the air speed at part throttle would be higher, but i have heard that they can be difficult to tune at part throttle apllication. Price on them is pretty high too. From my calculations i'm needing around a 42-44 mm throttle with runners of around 180mm's long, that'll give peak torque at around the 3500- 4000 rpm mark.

I actually scored a pair of j30 maxima throttles (they are twins about 43mm) that i am just playing with at the moment, the linkage between the two bodies is easy enough, but the spacing on them is a little weird as they are quite close together, so iwould have 2 grouped pairs of throtttles, could make manifolds and filters/trumpets a little difficult.

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just caught up on your project thread, when you installed your n/a motor did you do the cambelt????

the belt tensioner's on these motor's are quite difficult to get right, a mate put a valve through a piston after his vr4 install into a 4wd diesel libero, turned out the cambelt had jumped a few teeth but we couldn't work out why. 2nd motor in there the cambelt started jumping teeth again so we got a mate who worked for dallas motors (mitsubishi dealers and mechanics) to have a look at it and we were messing up the tensioner big time, its weird to set up, got to fully depress the hydraulic tensioner, pin it, install and then pull the pin once belt tensioned with alternator. thats all from memory and we did it a few years ago, just thought i'd mention it cause i'd hate to see you blow that new motor the same way.

car's looking real nice by the way, that looks like some quality patchwork on the A pillars.

cheers

Matt

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Cambelt has been done, even made the special tool to compress the grenade. i'm always hella paranoid about cambelts, we stripped the belt on the VR rally car, one of the camshaft caps lost its dowel during a rebuild, and was reinstalled without, 3 rallies later, whilst leading our class the cap moved ever so slightly and jammed the inlet camshaft momentarily, stripping a dozen or so teeth and turning the valves into teaspoons. :cry:

The patchwork is really not that pretty, hence the need for a fair amount of filler, i'd really rather not patch them, and if it was a road car without a cage i definitely wouldn't, but seeing as the front hoop will be tagged down the inside of the pillar i don't mind doing it here.

Will resize the pics so people can actually see something, didn't realize they were set so small.

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Thought about bike carbs, and in some ways they may be better for the mid range torque i'd like, as the air speed at part throttle would be higher, but i have heard that they can be difficult to tune at part throttle apllication. Price on them is pretty high too. From my calculations i'm needing around a 42-44 mm throttle with runners of around 180mm's long, that'll give peak torque at around the 3500- 4000 rpm mark.

I actually scored a pair of j30 maxima throttles (they are twins about 43mm) that i am just playing with at the moment, the linkage between the two bodies is easy enough, but the spacing on them is a little weird as they are quite close together, so iwould have 2 grouped pairs of throtttles, could make manifolds and filters/trumpets a little difficult.

Awesome, those ITB's sound interesting. I hadn't realised the maximas had twin throttles. Is that the old VG30 or the VQ30? I wouldn't imagine manifolds would be any more difficult being in 2's. Would be just like a side draft manifold wouldn't it?

I'm going to have a go with bike carbs some time down the track. I managed to pick up some 41mm ones off an R1 (4 cyl inline) so I'm guessing they should be relatively easy to tune, but will obviously still have the usual carb issues. They were $350 on TM so about the same as cheaper webbers, which wouldn't fit in the engine bay.

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I wouldn't know where to start with sizing bike carbs. i'd love to get my hands on a set of roller barrels or even slide throttles. Pics are up of the throttles i have, (in the projects thread) trying to work out the easiest way to make a nicely flowed manifold for them, could be tricky....

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