andy

I dont know your budget but we use one of these commercially with good results. About $950 list but if you are keen I could look into it further. http://www.nz.stauff.com/index.php?id=2565&L=1

all the quality benders ive used have dies that are very accurate to the dia of the tube. Might need to make a dirty great form tool lol

Love it! Always wanted one and should've got one when prices were resonable in the 90s. What are your plans? Wheels, engine etc? From memory there were chunks of polystyrene stuck in the rear quarters for sound deadening and that trapped moisture which lead to rust. I would save and get quality repairs as that's a high value car.

you can buy a bike tube kit if you have a ask around. Gives the headset tube and bottom bracket with flanges etc. From memory pipe has a seam and tube does not. Sounds like you used a 'crossbow type bender. As said earlier, you want to be drawing the tube around the die not ramming the die into the tube. I use a Stauff bender or swageloc benders on smaller stuff. I used a dodgy home made jobby for my trutest. Came up nice but required alot of beer and swearing.

awesome to be in the 12's! Those are some serious times for a street car in full trim. That 8 second pigeon must have been something to see!

Its fucked. Cut it out and replace it or take it too someone like Tony at Custom Metal Shapers in ET who can sort it. Going off the previous amount of questions you have posted you are probably quite fussy so want it right. It would bug the fuck out of me finishing a car and knowing that that was lurking in the body.

I'm pretty sure they are 200 bar which is more like 3000 psi so you are already 25% safer than you thought. That said, I spent years driving around Ak with argon in my single cab ute. The chances of getting booked by the 5.0 are almost zero as they wont know what argon is and you can bs your way out of it.

Great work! Whats the deal with the engine? Its a toyota V12 engine yeah? What did it come out of?

My company is the NZ agent for Fragola. If they leak they have probably been incorrectly installed or mismatched. Our fittings and fuel systems (Aeromotive) are fitted on many of the top fuel cars in the States and the world over. I receieved your PM and left my contact details on your phone ealier this week. Andy.

Let me know what you need re. hose, fittings, tube and or pump and I can sort you out with some good discount. Based in Penrose.

Ive just skimmed through the previous posts and I cant see where the flow of the fuel pump is given? This is what you need to know if you are to work out the pressure drop through given line sizes. p.s. If you need bundy tubing, we sell it. 5/16 would be a shade under $12/metre. edit. I just spoke to a work mate who designs fuel systems. We sell fuel systems through our speed shop. I descibed your set up and he recommended the following. suction from tank to pump. 5/8 (-10) fuel line from pump to fuel rail. 1/2 (- return to tank. 3/8 (-6) This would be for an engine making 400 hp or more. He also noted that the bosch pump may be a little on the lean side. PM me if you would like to speak directly about this and I will forward you his number.

Extreme pressure usually relates to the the oil being "sqeezed" through the gears as opposed to a pressurised casing. Talk with an oil rep ie. Elf and they will sort you something suitable. If you have know joy, I can help you out. Your gearbox has high tolerance bearings, rotating parts and gears so yeah it needs oil changes. Intervals would depend on how hard you use it and quality of lubricant used. Ironically, most contamination is introduced during oil changes.

Nice work! Coming along fast.

Typically the oil companies have covered themselves by not owning any assets. ie. you buy your fuel from "Z" not Shell etc so you have no come back on the oil company itself. That said the oil companies filter the fuel at the refinery but cant control the cleanliness of the fuel once it leaves their site as they dont own the tankers. One of the difficult things with the fuel filtration is that it is a single pass application and therefore you only have one shot at catching the contamination. For this reason you need to be asking your filtration supplier about the Beta ratio of their elements. Look for at least a ratio of 200 +. If you are ever unfortunate enough to have a suspected HPCR diesel engine failure, take a sample of the fuel and have it lab tested (ISO 4406 patch test) as this is going to be your best form of defense. Last I heard Toyota were fitting an optional Racor filter to all new HPCR diesels.

and by (from memory) 2014 all diesel engine manufacturers must comply with the new emmision laws meaning they will have to manufacture HPCR engines or fit scrubers to the exhaust.

The clearances on the new HPCR injectors are down in the 2 - 3 micron range. You will not remove particles of this size effectivly with a paper celulose filter element. All of the OEM's are well aware of the issues with these new tier 4 engines and are busy writing disclaimers about the fuel going into the tank. Basically the filters often fitted by the OEM will remove particulate but they are limted therefore the fuel going into the vehicle needs to be very "clean" and the onboard filters will handle the last step. For what ever reason, toyotas seem to have been hit the hardest by this. IMO there is nothing wrong with our diesel fuel supply but we typically have poor dispencing systems ie. old storage tanks.

Alot of people/workshops are blamming bug for the failure of new high pressure common rail injectors when its often actually just particulate contamination and the OEM filters are just not up to it but thats a topic all on its own. Would a flush of methanol through the system kill the bug?

shot showing rolled edge on hole to gauge how nice these are.

Have floors!

awesome! You are doing a fine job on those projects.

Sweet ride. A rare find these days.

Thats interesting about the fatman stuff. A guy locally recently had some fatman fabricated spindle uprights certified and I was considering some myself. Are you building your ride to suit a certain period? Be good to see it on some wide white cross ply's! NZ needs more traditional customs.

Kitset garages are hard to heat unless insulated as they are usually poorly sealed (they dont use joinery and regular door shuts). You did a good thing by adding the building paper. In hindsite I would do the same. Aucklands not that cold anyway. Get a pair of heavy cotton overalls and you'll be sweet.

Nice work on the chassis! Plenty of thought gone in there. Did I miss what engine you are running? You staying with a 6 or converting?Looking forward to more pics.

ISO 32 Hydraulic fluid should probably do the trick also.