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Everything posted by Evan

  1. I’m sure it’s possible, I’ve only ever run those discs on a polisher and it works well.
  2. Nylon strip discs - don’t put them on an angle grinder as it will spin them too fast and put too much heat into the panel, put it on a variable speed polisher so you can turn the rotating speed right down - it still removes the paint/bog but minimises heat (which warps panels). One disc will also last ages also. these things are what you’re after: https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-car-polisher-180mm/558317.html#q=Polisher&start=20&sz=60 https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/3m-clean-and-strip-disc-178mm-purple/p/265294
  3. The crossover pipe at the back of the heads in the below photo, can you unplug that heater hose and confirm there’s water in there/put some water in there? It looks like an obvious place for and airlock - I mean, how does the air get out of there? Also Google says thats a common place for an airlock and apparently it’s worse if you jack the front of the car up when filling the cooling system
  4. Put the OG manifold back on
  5. Still got the old water pump that you could put back into it?
  6. Worth getting the radiator cleaned out first to confirm its not partially blocked before you go pulling cylinder heads off? / convert it to meth
  7. Tried turning the heater on (I’m assuming it;s hooked up?) in case there is an airlock in that loop that’s upsetting coolant flow?
  8. I assumed they had swapped the mounts on the disco axles based on that article but maybe not? I’m sure Himalaya had a write up on it that I read awhile ago but I can’t find it now.
  9. Go fo Disco as a donor, like this one (not sure if its had the chassis swapped or just the running gear) https://bringatrailer.com/2015/04/08/impressive-build-v8-swapped-1967-land-rover-109-series-2a/
  10. +1 for giving it to Autoblast and paying them to deal with it, A+ people to deal with.
  11. I understand older versions are free until the end of the year (that's what the email I got said anyway) /switch to Fusion360.
  12. Evan


    the Salisbury version or whatever? does it have a 44 up front?
  13. Evan


    upgrading the Defender?
  14. What's everyone using for their air lines/fittings and how are they finding them for longevity/leakiness? Hard or soft lines? push to connect fittings? Swagelok fittings? duct tape? Paging @Nominal, @sheepers, @MRWEST, @_Matt
  15. Temperature has dropped and work has slowed. Have been deliberating over engine choices for aaaaages, was pretty set on running a M104 (basically a Merc RB/JZ), other alternatives included an M271 (supercharged 4 cylinder thing) or an OG M180. I flip flopped for about 18 months until this popped up on trademe for $1 reserve, it's mine now. So I brought a 54 year old engine that 'ran when parked' 20 years ago sight unseen. It's not an L series Datsun donk but rather a Mercedes M180 which is what these cars originally came with. It doesn't look half bad under the rocker cover but even with the plugs out and a bar on the front pulley it has no enthusiasm to turn over so could be seized, more investigating required..
  16. A man with silly hair in Hawaii bet you to it (skip to 5mins if the link doesn't go there automatically)
  17. Masked up and sprayed the other side and the underside of the floors as far back as the rear seats (note all the OG underseal the blaster couldn't get off), left the trans tunnel in case it needs some clearancing for the trans I want to run (Mercedes 722.6) I need to drop the rear diff to do the underside of the boot, but before doing that I thought I should really install the bags and some wheels and put it on the ground to see how it looks, so I did. Managed to unlock the next level of sketch city in the process with mystery blocks of wood used in precarious manners to get it down off the axles stands. That's as low as you'll get one of these without taking an angle grinder to the body which I am unkeen to do, I also don't think the rear diff would enjoy any more articulation. sills are about 100mm, front cross member about 70mm and rear diff about 50mm from the ground respectfully. Now have the classic problem of the jack not fitting under it.
  18. Have now seam sealed the front right inner wheel arch. Also got the car up on axle stands and off the trolley thing it's been on for the last 18 months and seam sealed the under side, no pics of that. Masked up the front left inner wheel arch and top coated it with Wurth 'Gravel throw and underbody protection'. I don't want to use the full fat bitumen based underseal as it's a prick to get off in the future if you ever need to - a lot of the underside of this car is still coated in it as the blaster couldn't remove it and I don't have the patience to lie on my back with a heat gun and scraper to get it off, so it can stay. This stuff seams to be favoured by those in the Porsche circles online so we will see how it goes (means I have Porsche parts on my car now right?) has the added benefit of coming in a rattle can, not sure if that means it won't last but it takes a bit of effort to scratch it once its dry.
  19. Still plodding away, got a pair of Slam Specialties RE5s for the front, would of likes to run the larger RE6s up front but they're a bit marginal for clearance on the diameter front and I'd rather not risk having a bag rubbing on something. Hot glue gunned some mounts together, all designed to be bolt in: Full Squash (onto factory bumpstops), followed by full droop - looking like I'll need limiting straps at full droop to stop all the weight hanging from the bag. Back when this was at the panel beaters I made a day trip with Ned to Mercworx is Tirau in search of a new boot, as mine was full of cheese. took a punt on one that had a dent in it but look solid. Finally got around to getting it blasted and primed at Autoblast and, other than coming back in the wrong primer and having a couple of dents in it, it looks ace - not a spot of rust in it. New one on top of old one: Have started seam sealing the underside, started with the front left wheel arch. Initially tried masking up the lines to give a cleaner finish but have decided that isn't worth the effort; a finger swipe gives the best outcome. (as an aside when Wurth say their seam sealer is 'brushable' they're using that term very optimistially) Hopefully have the underside seam sealed by the weekend touch wood.
  20. I wonder if the original carbs for those manifolds had different throttle shafts that didn’t have a nut on the end but instead a flange like the below with a linkage running over top of them to actuate them from the outer ends
  21. I'm just going to leave this here for future reference/anyone else who's interested https://www.aliexpress.com/af/weber-throttle-bodies.html?SearchText=weber+throttle+bodies&d=y&initiative_id=SB_20190323183021&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs
  22. Machinery House have a sale on this month
  23. well its worth $100 at this point right... Marginal cost pricing says the ship is coming back regardless so the return ride should be $50. All part of my quest to be like UJ.
  24. Any idea what it would cost to ship the Chev back to the mainland?