azzurro

@Leebo3 a matching wee runabout to nip down the shops with?

(have one of these lines up for a one day project. M8, if you look closely this has a big one wheel peel right into the parking spot, proper like)

this was mean, went early on Satdey after a big Friday night out for my mates birthday and eventually tapped out around 1.30pm, heat was too much! Got some trinkets and treasures, talked a lot of shit, ate some chips, and took lots of photos for a change. Herewith my photodump:

See youse sometime tomorrow. Is there an os compound?

JOB 2: GORRAM CARBURETTOR Getting the correct mix of fuel and air into the hungry twin cam has been a pain in my ass since i got this. The DCD and DCHE carbs (slight updates on each other) are usually pretty good, (the DCD on my 2300 goes great), but for whatever reason i just couldnt get these ones to run right. I now have an even fuller 'big box of confirmed only good for spare parts' carbs and linkages. So i did what i should have in the first place I had grabbed the DMS from my old 1608cc engine that was in my 125 and ran well before i swapped to a 2 liter to try as well as a spare DMS body, but... They are quite different, linkages are the opposite, DMS is 2 inches shorter, and the air filter hole shape and bolt pattern is different Before xmas I ebayed a pack of lovely linkagey bits and pieces to complement my existing stock of carb bits and pieces, and used the same approach i used for my twin carbs setup. All thread and double nuts makes it easy to adjust the relative position of everything. A tack to join the salvaged ears to one bolt and having the lock nut on the 'tighten' side (so the applied force tightens the tab+nut against the lock nut) makes it permanent - my 125 setup was done the same way, meant to be temporary mock up but its been fine for years now. I do have a slightly nicer Lynx bar and arm setup on the way, so having it set up will make the swap over very easy. I also faffed around with this carb for flipping ages as well, thinking i wasted my time couldnt get it to idle nicely (rich as) swapping idle jets willy nilly, in the end turned out the primary idle jet holder i was using (nice all brass job, no o-ring needed, posh as!) was just a smidge too short and wasnt sealing the jet into its set letting unmetered fuel thought eh idle circuit, and using one of the oring ones sorted it out. A few trips up and down the road swapping jets around got me back to pretty much the same as what i started with, and now it runs really nicely, pulls well from low rpm without back firing, and revs out smoothly, and pugs chop is a nice browny grey . Very happy now, its much more relaxing and comfortable to drive, and noted a successful test hoon with a celebratory 1 wheel peel up the driveway (would hardly chirp the tyres before). The only air filter i had that will fit around the linkage, the cam cover and the carb is this custom job that came with my 2 liter engine, its better than nothing but id like to find/make/cobble something slightly better. Oh and also fitted some Lancia cam covers because i think they are flash as. 34DMS Jetting for future reference Calibrated Orifice: Primary/Secondary Main Jet: 132/160 Air Corrector: 170/170 Emulsion Tube: F61/F61 Idle Jet: 45*/60** *has been drilled out to 50/55ish?, actual 45 is too small, 60 and 70 too big **Factory settings suggest secondary idle should be 70 min, so could go up here, but mains are bigger (+5) and airs are smaller (-10) already, and revs didnt seem to be an issue?

yeah, so aussie for 3 weeks was hot as balls, but also cool as an esky full of frosties. anywho, my shitty eurotrash ute has not fixed itself while i was away, so instead of looking at the grass growing up it i moved it from the spot on the lawn and got back into it. Before i left i took and collected a bunch of stuff from the lock up for a few niggly jobs JOB 1: BRAKES Brakes where a bit flat feeling, but the 125 and 2300 have great brakes (4 wheel discs) and this runs the same setup as the 125 so they aught to be good too. It has brand new Ferodo pads in the rear and pretty new ones in the front, discs seem fine (*reminder to swap the front right that is a bit warped, with the spare i collected) and they dont pull to any side. I swapped the one way valve (was blocked) and vacuum hose (small split - improved idling) and still the brake pedal did not drop when the engine started so i assumed the booster was toasted, so swapped in the nicest looking spare i had after painting the front half grey and the rusty standoff bracket with black zinc (love that stuff!). The old one was a polish one (Fermat?), the replacement is an italian made Bonaldi from a 125. Brakes are much better now, but it seems there is a slight difference between them as even though both the original master cylinder and bracket bolted up fine and it all works, the fluid reservoir now has a slight lean (5 deg or so) to the right. Solution would be to swap the 125 bracket over as well but that is a real ball ache as the clutch cable comes though it, and a couple of the bolts are accessed from under the dash, and i CBF. Reservoir has enough movement to tilt it back flat by hand, so if needed i can cable tie it to pull it level but that feels worse somehow.

That tailgate appears to be made of mainly metal in the lower third. I'd say its as near as you are likley to find to a minter! Cracking the bog water traps off is a good move, but not sold on deliberate rust, esp as an old HQs surf wags will likley have more than enough non-intentional rust... Penetrol or similar might keep it from going too far once it looks as you want it?

Honey i blew up the fridge. This was on the evening thursday 21st and I've already lent out the van and are overseas for 3 weeks leaving early morning sat 23rd and can't leave the housesitters without a fridge and the house is a fucking tip and the shops are total chaos and faaaark.....! Solution! UTELISE IT Old fridge off to the dump with a solid load of other carp. Hard parking waiting for a load of boulders to be dropped in the tray from a height like a real mans ute SMUG FACING AT THE DUMP Delivery mode engaged And so thats how Chrismo was saved. Happy Holidays from Straya, ya cunts.

Sweet! Looks like you will be able to fit a mower disc under that deck too.

Nothing i can do about the carb till the new year, but a few other things can be sorted. WoF man said the front wheel bearings were borderline and iit started making terrible noises at drag day, but they seemed ok on a jack. Had some in stock, as the 2300 takes the same size and is a bit grumbly too, but not as bad so i havnt done it yet, good thing too Easy job other than getting the old races out, which were pretty bad... While im in there... Swapped out the 2300/1500 and 125p steering idler whcih just has a shaft in a bush For the old one off my 125 that has a leaky shaft. These ones have an oil damper, i cleaned it out and half filled with grease and topped up moreys so hopefully it wont leak I pulled out the steering box too, mainly because it looks manky. This truck has a collapsible steering shaft like the later 132 (132AB casting box) my 125 (had) and my 2300 have a one piece shaft. the oil in it was as grim as the outside, so it got a tidy up on the outside and some new oil. It needed lots of adjustment. Steering is much tighter and quieter now

YES DRAG DAAAAYYYY! All packes up, ready to go, scooter drags on too! Big thanks to @Threeonthetree and everyone who helped out and turned up, always a good day. Also thanks to the people who took photos and i have shamelessly rehosted Lining up for scrutineering Ended up doing a lot of this. fiddling with the carb and talking crap with good peoples This was my result in the DYO part of the day, i dialled in a 19.7 and on my first run i DNFed about 20m from the start line, the carb linkage popped off so no go pedal :/ . ^that run was after run 3, results from passes i did are below. Run 4, - 6 were after the DYO had finished, Shaved a second off from the first run, and gained 7mph just from swapping the limited jets i have around in the carb, pretty happy to using a semi scientific method. The carb much better dialed in, and probalby as good as this particular one will ever be, but its still not very good there is an internal air or fuel leak, or maybe both, , idle is up and down and farts and pops on load sometimes as well.

SO ive been pesting around in this a bit, trying to get it sorted for drag day. Seat already taken, sorry ladeeze. Makes a good surf wagon The DCHE carb it came with is Is still a bit flakey, so i swapped to a DCD which is the type the original 1500 motor would have had, and is on the 2300 as well. I have a DMS too but the action is the reverse and the truck has slightly different linkage to the sedan as well, no pivot point on the firewall. DCD is way better but still sub optimal :/.

Havnt done much with this while ive been playing with the ute, except drive it to monthly meets. Here it is with another sweet torsion bar suspension vehicle at the october meet these flippin sweet sweet pics from the november one thanks to @MichaelJFox on his Rolleiflex and on the way to the december meet it ran out of gas despite the gauge saying half full until the AA man put $20 of 95 in and it dropped to under a 1/4. Once rolling again it was too late to make it to Mt Wellington So we had a solo MEAT at Lincoln Rd MEAT!

Guages made by Veglia, pronounced 'vauge liar' Fired up directly with more go juice

Ran out of gas on the motorway even tho guage says over half full... Now running a solo* meet at Lincoln rd thanks AA Merry Christmas dorks. Y'all will have to wait till next year to unwrap my junk

yay! lucky* dip!

i get no deafening, but you mean an angry, burbly mouse right, a rodent of unusual size type mouse?

"Congratulates car form Poland! I have cars from FSO too. ( Polonez with OHV engine ) Are you happy with this Fiat? My dad had the same. ( 1990 white with 5 gearbox and 1.5 next 1.6 from Polonez engine on carburetor and timing belt instead timing chain ) Sorry on my englisch. My language is bad." Cześć Likor, and thanks mate! Your Englisch is fine I have yet to drive this much, but i do like it, the rear end is very light . I think i will eventually change carburettor to EFI from a Lancia Delta. i have 2 other Fiats as well, a 1969 125 with a 2l twin cam and sidedrafts and a 5 speed, and a 1966 2300 Familiare with some Polonez parts on it too (many engine parts on the old 2.3 are common with the 1.5). You should start a thread on your Polonezez! (Polonoi?) There are many people here who would like to see what you do in Poland. Na zdrowie!

they tend to remove a normal cars door linings and stuff to have a good gork, dont they? Maybe they only have plastic panel popper tools to suit Tiidas now, and no proper USA screwdrivers... Good excuse to cavity wax (and have a look yourself) while its off?

I was just warming it up while moving other vehicles to take it for a test run. Turns out i didnt wire up the radiator fan which is a small (12") pusher on the front. New earth and power and regigging the switch meant i missed my man at the place. Cooled down while i rewired the fan, topped up the reservoir and fired up no worries. Had the day off today and ran it in, great success! Im definitely swapping out that crummy blocked/leaky/ carb before drag day/driving it again . Its had two chances already,. Engine pulls well when it cooperates. i have 3 contenders clean and ready to bolt on, will try the DCD(s) first as its a straight swap, then if thats pants the DMS (which needs linkage changes) . Parked on the street like a BOSS and ive got a bit of a list of niggles, but pretty much sorted for summer

Respayed the rear and had way too much paint so blew over all my other repairs and the black 'tideline' on the side. Diddled around with a heap of other stuff hoping to take it in for a WoF on saturday. Pink Doggo Rusty and Grey just like the house. Stuck my spoiler on, self tappers FTW Interior all back in including a new Ducato ignition switch Then this happened:

I just wanted to say I love everything about this build.

Well as far as i am concerned its not finished untill there is a pic of a well earned beer with a freshly vintage-lawn-tractored lawn in the background...

its just a SS disc for yr grinder that puts heat into the panel where you 'grind' it but doesnt take any metal off - easy enough to make from an old bowl, bench top, or sheet of SS. Ive not used one myself but a gas torch, benzo, or even judicious spots and flap wheel can do much the same thing (with higher risk). Lots of vids on youtube but its a bit of a trick i think to know where to put more heat in in a way that wont make it worse. I have found putting a spot of weld on the far (from the original weld) edge of the divot from oilcanned area can tighten it up (and the flap discing it off adds more heat too, esp if you use a fine grit) , but effectively makes the sunken area a bit bigger, but also much less obvious. I would just bash it and see, no shame in using filler as a filler (rather than a structural member)

Yerp, warping is hard to avoid, esp on big flat panels with heaps of butt welding, no matter what you do.. Im guessing from your tidy weldporn that you do long beads which would get a lot of heat into the panel, which shrinks and warps. Pick and peck stacking up the tacks one by one is 'better', especially if you have a lot of sections/patches on the go its easy to jump around so the metal stays cooler. Tapping the back of the weld back out or selective shrinking elsewhere eg a big spot of weld (or a shrinking disc if you are flash!) in the middle of an oilcanning section can tighten it up, or make it worse, lol. Nothing wrong with bog over good metal tho, heaps better than bog over chickenwire, newspaper and rust!