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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. Thanks @NickJ , seems some judicious application of poop has it sorted for now. if it leaks again ill check out Chris's stash and order a new one from the mother land if they are the same. 124 heater valves and boxes are quite different tho so might be close but not quite @Infinit , ive never seen another 125 based vehicle driving around IRL despite having 2, so you are doing better than me! This thing is a proper shitter in the best eastern european style, but seems to respond well to the attention ive been giving it, even if i significantly underestimated the amount it needed!
  2. The factory seat in this are dumb, and i had these AE101 Trueno seats in the storage unit from my AE101 Corolla wagon. You can see the cracks, collapsing, and pokey springs and general lack of support in the lumbar, tushie and muffins regions of the factory seat on the left in the photo below. What you cant see however, is the temperature of the black vinyl, which is i assure you, quite hot. The Trueno seats (on the right, obv) were too low for the wagon, (which is why they were buried in storage in favour of FXGT ones) but look near perfect* for this being the right colour in black/grey, ok condition, around the right size and rail width, and most importantly free. and in no time at all* here they are installed as per FSO and Toyota intended, on the factory seat mounting points. Way more comfy, especially with the headrest not being made of glass now. The Trueno being a coupe gives the bonus of tilt forward on the passenger seat, meaning easy access to the area behind the seats which is pretty much the only in cab storage area. The drivers seat also has a 'lumbar support' lever on the upright and vertical height adjustment on the lower squab. Very noice. Looking pretty flash in there now! (The new seats did not resolve the flippin left turning noise, but the cab is a much nicer place to hear it). These shitters can go back into the hole the trueno ones left in storage, dog can have one last ride on them Subaru BRAT style.
  3. Been using the Giorno to rack up the many short trips to the beach, board included over summer (blardy tourists taking all my parks!), but did take the ute a couple of times.new cars are big! Did take the scoot to my mates place about 5km on gravel and at some point the air filter fell off, but i didnt notice until on on the way home it sucked in some crap and putted out happily just as the mrs went past.Ride home to get some 'helpers' and Ute to the rescue. Get in the back ya blardy mongrel!
  4. Still getting a weird rattling/grinding noise from the left front/gearbox/rear (?!?) when turning even slightly left. low or high speed doesnt seem to matter. LF Wheel isnt rubbing on anything in the arch, brakes clear everything. I thought it was the wheel bearings , so new front wheel bearings both sides, clean and grease everything I thought it was the steering box, so new oil filled idler, cleaned and adjusted steering box, still noisy I thought it was the exhaust rubbing on the driveshaft or the driveshaft on the seat belt bolts (new rubbers moved it away, more washers on the seat belt bolts to shorten them, still noisy) In a bid to chase this rabbit further down its hole it further and also to address a suspension issue i removed this 20mm spacer (wtf?) from between the driveshaft and diff. Im assuming its factory from the heft and look of it but its not in my books. The shaft is also wierd, it looks like a 125 one at the back, but the front half is thin like the 2300s one (so is probably the original 1500 one) with a small universal and narrow yoke. Im wondering if the driveshaft is a franken-hybrid made up when the 125 diff was fitted? Anyway, with the PO Lowering the ass by 3 inches (not complaining, just saying) meant all the articulation in the slip yoke at the gearbox end was used up, and so bumps, especially when empty (!?) would shift the gear box and engine on their mounts. Not good. I also extended the center bearing carrier mount so it could move back towards the diff by around the same amount. Holes yet to be 'slotted' (10mm hole at the end + dremel to join them up) Now it drives a remarkable amount better, now the rear suspension is not pivoting off the diff nose or bunting the engine/box around, but the bloody grindy noise when turning left is now even worse! I'm guessing probably the universals or the center bearing carrier (which was slightly perished and crazed but not (yet) broken), or at least that what i will probably be shotgunning new parts at next.
  5. That'll vape out. More progress pics please
  6. Then today, the postie (who turns out to have a Model A Rod, a JC Bedford tow truck with a V8, and races a classic stock cars) turned up with a couple of things i got from trademe This EMPI filter that reminds me of my old VWs And a single sidedraft linkage kit to gussie up my temporary mock up BOOM! (shakalaka) I had a K&N recharge kit so have it the red for an extra 5hp, for less than half the price. Ive also cut up a chaepo rug for mats, put new hangers on the exhaust and tightened and greased a few things. Ive yet to take it for a test drive but im expecting it to be all round much better than it was. Already have a shopping list of little things tho...
  7. The next day, i noticed this: FFS man, why do i even! So that meant a change to the timetable of Job 3: COOLING SYSTEM from like, whenever yo, to right now already. So, to the bat cave for more crusty shite! Started with the heater unit, its a two part unit that clips together the fan on the bottom is easily removable, to then remove the upper section with matrix and flaps and controls that bolts up under the dash. I had previously 'overhauled' the fan* so i knew it was fine (*its the switch that is patu) and the matrix is the leaky bit. Its actually somewhere around the heater valve thats leaking, so i try undoing the two nuts, one is fine, the other just turns but wont come undone, uhohh. it must be leaking from the loose fastener and new hole that is now behind the gasket. I think the leverage from the mechanism acts on this nut and the brass eventually fatigues and breaks around the captive bolt. This is the one from my 125 that i swapped out already, same failure mode. Not a spare then. this is the other spare matrix. Ah nope, also leaky. The 125p one was in the best nick of a bad bunch so i cleaned out all the muck, greased everything and slathered the valve/matrix joining area liberally with windscreen sealant. Alos swapped the mounting tin over with new foam seal as it was rusty as was the mounting area on the car, so that got a wire bush, rust converted zinc paint and lots of lanocote for good measure as its pretty inaccessible otherwise. Next part, the radiator. Setup in the ute was a bit pants, had a cheap generic 10" fan set up to push, bolted (!) through the radiator, which was also in pretty poor shape with lots of lost and corroded fins. To be fair, the factory fan is also 10" (a later model plastic one is visible inshot) and is also un-shrouded Spare of unknown condition on top looks in slightly better condition, but is older, as it takes a 'long' radiator cap. Ended up doing a PickaPart run and got a nice slim 11" fan from a Toyota Curren and made up a shroud with alloy sheet (left over from the Sign of the Year trailer ) BTW PaP is a bit meh now with numbers and shit, especially when 'supermarket' shopping looking for something that you will know it when you see it rather than from a specific vehicle And installed. For a lack of a 'long' radiator cap i stuck with the original radiator, but removing the bolts must have triggered something as it leaked like a sieve afterwards. Then I checked the cap on my blue sedan, and then stole my first part from it and now the cooling system is much betterer. OEM Toyota Fan is very quiet and moves a LOT more air and cycles in about 2 minutes instead of 10s of minutes like the old cheapy. I also wired in a bypass of the in radiator thermo-switch (which earths out the fan at a lower temp than the thermostat) , as its a bit of a sketchy set up and one cant be too careful, can one. Its running mostly water and dishwasher powder to clean out the coolant system, which is a bit greasy (skum in the overflow). Its getting less greasy with flushes, so hopefully its not a gammy head gasket letting oil into the coolant, but its running way cooler already so, woop!
  8. @Leebo3 a matching wee runabout to nip down the shops with?
  9. (have one of these lines up for a one day project. M8, if you look closely this has a big one wheel peel right into the parking spot, proper like)
  10. this was mean, went early on Satdey after a big Friday night out for my mates birthday and eventually tapped out around 1.30pm, heat was too much! Got some trinkets and treasures, talked a lot of shit, ate some chips, and took lots of photos for a change. Herewith my photodump:
  11. See youse sometime tomorrow. Is there an os compound?
  12. JOB 2: GORRAM CARBURETTOR Getting the correct mix of fuel and air into the hungry twin cam has been a pain in my ass since i got this. The DCD and DCHE carbs (slight updates on each other) are usually pretty good, (the DCD on my 2300 goes great), but for whatever reason i just couldnt get these ones to run right. I now have an even fuller 'big box of confirmed only good for spare parts' carbs and linkages. So i did what i should have in the first place I had grabbed the DMS from my old 1608cc engine that was in my 125 and ran well before i swapped to a 2 liter to try as well as a spare DMS body, but... They are quite different, linkages are the opposite, DMS is 2 inches shorter, and the air filter hole shape and bolt pattern is different Before xmas I ebayed a pack of lovely linkagey bits and pieces to complement my existing stock of carb bits and pieces, and used the same approach i used for my twin carbs setup. All thread and double nuts makes it easy to adjust the relative position of everything. A tack to join the salvaged ears to one bolt and having the lock nut on the 'tighten' side (so the applied force tightens the tab+nut against the lock nut) makes it permanent - my 125 setup was done the same way, meant to be temporary mock up but its been fine for years now. I do have a slightly nicer Lynx bar and arm setup on the way, so having it set up will make the swap over very easy. I also faffed around with this carb for flipping ages as well, thinking i wasted my time couldnt get it to idle nicely (rich as) swapping idle jets willy nilly, in the end turned out the primary idle jet holder i was using (nice all brass job, no o-ring needed, posh as!) was just a smidge too short and wasnt sealing the jet into its set letting unmetered fuel thought eh idle circuit, and using one of the oring ones sorted it out. A few trips up and down the road swapping jets around got me back to pretty much the same as what i started with, and now it runs really nicely, pulls well from low rpm without back firing, and revs out smoothly, and pugs chop is a nice browny grey . Very happy now, its much more relaxing and comfortable to drive, and noted a successful test hoon with a celebratory 1 wheel peel up the driveway (would hardly chirp the tyres before). The only air filter i had that will fit around the linkage, the cam cover and the carb is this custom job that came with my 2 liter engine, its better than nothing but id like to find/make/cobble something slightly better. Oh and also fitted some Lancia cam covers because i think they are flash as. 34DMS Jetting for future reference Calibrated Orifice: Primary/Secondary Main Jet: 132/160 Air Corrector: 170/170 Emulsion Tube: F61/F61 Idle Jet: 45*/60** *has been drilled out to 50/55ish?, actual 45 is too small, 60 and 70 too big **Factory settings suggest secondary idle should be 70 min, so could go up here, but mains are bigger (+5) and airs are smaller (-10) already, and revs didnt seem to be an issue?
  13. yeah, so aussie for 3 weeks was hot as balls, but also cool as an esky full of frosties. anywho, my shitty eurotrash ute has not fixed itself while i was away, so instead of looking at the grass growing up it i moved it from the spot on the lawn and got back into it. Before i left i took and collected a bunch of stuff from the lock up for a few niggly jobs JOB 1: BRAKES Brakes where a bit flat feeling, but the 125 and 2300 have great brakes (4 wheel discs) and this runs the same setup as the 125 so they aught to be good too. It has brand new Ferodo pads in the rear and pretty new ones in the front, discs seem fine (*reminder to swap the front right that is a bit warped, with the spare i collected) and they dont pull to any side. I swapped the one way valve (was blocked) and vacuum hose (small split - improved idling) and still the brake pedal did not drop when the engine started so i assumed the booster was toasted, so swapped in the nicest looking spare i had after painting the front half grey and the rusty standoff bracket with black zinc (love that stuff!). The old one was a polish one (Fermat?), the replacement is an italian made Bonaldi from a 125. Brakes are much better now, but it seems there is a slight difference between them as even though both the original master cylinder and bracket bolted up fine and it all works, the fluid reservoir now has a slight lean (5 deg or so) to the right. Solution would be to swap the 125 bracket over as well but that is a real ball ache as the clutch cable comes though it, and a couple of the bolts are accessed from under the dash, and i CBF. Reservoir has enough movement to tilt it back flat by hand, so if needed i can cable tie it to pull it level but that feels worse somehow.
  14. That tailgate appears to be made of mainly metal in the lower third. I'd say its as near as you are likley to find to a minter! Cracking the bog water traps off is a good move, but not sold on deliberate rust, esp as an old HQs surf wags will likley have more than enough non-intentional rust... Penetrol or similar might keep it from going too far once it looks as you want it?
  15. Honey i blew up the fridge. This was on the evening thursday 21st and I've already lent out the van and are overseas for 3 weeks leaving early morning sat 23rd and can't leave the housesitters without a fridge and the house is a fucking tip and the shops are total chaos and faaaark.....! Solution! UTELISE IT Old fridge off to the dump with a solid load of other carp. Hard parking waiting for a load of boulders to be dropped in the tray from a height like a real mans ute SMUG FACING AT THE DUMP Delivery mode engaged And so thats how Chrismo was saved. Happy Holidays from Straya, ya cunts.
  16. Sweet! Looks like you will be able to fit a mower disc under that deck too.
  17. Nothing i can do about the carb till the new year, but a few other things can be sorted. WoF man said the front wheel bearings were borderline and iit started making terrible noises at drag day, but they seemed ok on a jack. Had some in stock, as the 2300 takes the same size and is a bit grumbly too, but not as bad so i havnt done it yet, good thing too Easy job other than getting the old races out, which were pretty bad... While im in there... Swapped out the 2300/1500 and 125p steering idler whcih just has a shaft in a bush For the old one off my 125 that has a leaky shaft. These ones have an oil damper, i cleaned it out and half filled with grease and topped up moreys so hopefully it wont leak I pulled out the steering box too, mainly because it looks manky. This truck has a collapsible steering shaft like the later 132 (132AB casting box) my 125 (had) and my 2300 have a one piece shaft. the oil in it was as grim as the outside, so it got a tidy up on the outside and some new oil. It needed lots of adjustment. Steering is much tighter and quieter now
  18. YES DRAG DAAAAYYYY! All packes up, ready to go, scooter drags on too! Big thanks to @Threeonthetree and everyone who helped out and turned up, always a good day. Also thanks to the people who took photos and i have shamelessly rehosted Lining up for scrutineering Ended up doing a lot of this. fiddling with the carb and talking crap with good peoples This was my result in the DYO part of the day, i dialled in a 19.7 and on my first run i DNFed about 20m from the start line, the carb linkage popped off so no go pedal :/ . ^that run was after run 3, results from passes i did are below. Run 4, - 6 were after the DYO had finished, Shaved a second off from the first run, and gained 7mph just from swapping the limited jets i have around in the carb, pretty happy to using a semi scientific method. The carb much better dialed in, and probalby as good as this particular one will ever be, but its still not very good there is an internal air or fuel leak, or maybe both, , idle is up and down and farts and pops on load sometimes as well.
  19. SO ive been pesting around in this a bit, trying to get it sorted for drag day. Seat already taken, sorry ladeeze. Makes a good surf wagon The DCHE carb it came with is Is still a bit flakey, so i swapped to a DCD which is the type the original 1500 motor would have had, and is on the 2300 as well. I have a DMS too but the action is the reverse and the truck has slightly different linkage to the sedan as well, no pivot point on the firewall. DCD is way better but still sub optimal :/.
  20. Havnt done much with this while ive been playing with the ute, except drive it to monthly meets. Here it is with another sweet torsion bar suspension vehicle at the october meet these flippin sweet sweet pics from the november one thanks to @MichaelJFox on his Rolleiflex and on the way to the december meet it ran out of gas despite the gauge saying half full until the AA man put $20 of 95 in and it dropped to under a 1/4. Once rolling again it was too late to make it to Mt Wellington So we had a solo MEAT at Lincoln Rd MEAT!
  21. Ran out of gas on the motorway even tho guage says over half full... Now running a solo* meet at Lincoln rd thanks AA Merry Christmas dorks. Y'all will have to wait till next year to unwrap my junk
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