azzurro

keen, have an older car that works and needs a drive, and a hankering for aoili with my hot buns on a steamy summers eve

I love it, i was actually looking for one of these, but prices were a bit steep (for me) so i ended up with my blue 125, and it was all downhill from there i guess.

Love your work. Hope you are planning on fillling the cavities with lots of... ...Dynatrol

priuses's

Id take a ride in that fake taxi. 5 stars. Proves that anything can look cool with the right rims and some lows

My Innovate cables turned up, and I plugged my lappy in and after faffing with the usb/serial driver stuff my 1960s designed ute talks to a computer. Turns out the gauge and sensor is fine... just needed the main plug jiggled so it fully clicked together and then re calibrated, so yay, but also, good one dick (me). Anyway with it now working I could see what the carb was doing and make changes in an infomed manner instead of flailing. THATS SCIENCE! Turns out the poor idle and bog off idle was a lean condition which is the opposite of what i thought, based on the plugs and exhaust smell, but it runs way better now, so looking forward to using it a bit more. Jetting is now: Primary: Idle 60, main 132, air 150 Secondary: Idle 70, Main 160, air 150 Weber DMS twin choke downdraft on a smokey 1582cc TC. Here is the worlds most boring video, in portrait model of the gauge in action on a cold start just before. Still a bit wobbly on idle but the carb is pretty worn Will do untill i fit my sideys Here is a shot of my two wheelbarrows

Agree. Car should 'run' on almost any carb if everything else is ok. Ignition timing etc ok? If it has a mechanical fuel pump and been sitting for a while it will take some (a lot) of cranking to fill the bowl. Also if your ?acellerator? Pump is not put together propely you are wasting your time. Whip it off and sort it out. While its off recheck everything. Set the idle mixture screw to 2 turns out and the idle speed screw to 1 turn in from just touching. Fill the bowl with about 10mm of gas then put it back on.

Useless local windscreen dudes never showed up, so me and the boy roped it in ourselves. the NZ made ARMOURFLOAT windscreen from the parts stash . Was actually pretty easy, especially with a new rubber and lot of dish soap. Except somehow the spreader trim is shorter now repairs - what repairs? Took it in again on Saturday, and Great Success! After that i dropped off the sidedraft manifold to @EURON8 for him to mod for me, and when i got home i played with the old DMS carb and some new aliexpress idle, air corrector and main jets to fill some holes in my collection. Seems to idle and transition much better now (slightly richer idle and main jet than before) but there is still a big flat spot at low rpm. Been half assedly progressing though the sandpaper grades cutting back my orange peel (sanding suuuuuuuxxxxx) and today i finally polished it. Grrr

Just copy and past the url - the forum software will do the rest. Also, I flipping love shitty old commercials, especially vans*, and looking forward what you do with this. (*im working some irons myself on one in my preferred flavour at the mo)

Hey bowl, no complaints here. I havnt fitted the Weber sideys yet cause the manifold needs some mods. I also want to use the gauge to tune the single carb i have first (some jets for it from aliexpress turned up yesterday). The sensor issue, well that just happens. I was hoping it would work, but also expecting to have to replace the sensor, as they are very fragile and finicky. Postage or kicking around on the floor of my shed, or maybe my ute runs so shit it gummed it up immediately? Actually It now drops out of heater mode, but the gauge just flicks between min 7.2 or max 22.4 AFR. Maybe had a bit of a loose connection initially, and now ive truly fucked it? Im waiting on a serial cable and usb adaptor to arrive to be able to connect up the gauge to my laptop and see what it says/update the firmware/re calibrate it etc.

Guess what? Replacing the windscreen and doing the other things took longer than the weekend + week i anticipated! Rust in the windscreen aperture itself was just surface rust, but there were some other bits i missed or had got worse since last time, and i thought i may as well get them while the screen is out. In another shocker, the Roof/A-Pillar overlap bubbles went a bit deeper than initially appearing Outer patch ready to weld (already welded the patch on the inner skin, obviously) Not quite invisible, but solid metal and invisible/factory after a a skim of filler and some carefully applied seam sealer. Small patch in the drivers side gutter i missed last time And dug the ugly bathroom sealant off the windscreen motor mount to reveal some holes that got much bigger by the time i managed to get tools in the scuttle to cut off the brazing someone had blobbed it on with before. Had to jam a welding glove up under the dash to catch the hedgehogs and molten balls from falling on the carpet! EEEK! Bit of a fiddle to line it up and mark where it needed to fit and then tack it in place but its all solid and water proof now too, and the wipers still work!. Had some trouble with the rattle cans i used truing to keep the bog dry between literal storms But it turned out ok, thinners soaked rag pretty much wiped it right off, and cant tell once i got the 2 part ACV on there Ended up doing the roof, windscreen surround, scuttle tops of the doors and fenders and the sills as well as wafting the left overs at the bonnet. My cheap 1.4mm tip top coat gun is over due for replacement (sprayed 3 cars now! - 1.7mm primer gun seems ok still) so its well tidied up from the patchy look it had before but shes no show truck! Once that dried/it stopped raining i filled the cab gutters and pillers, and up the scuttle from the inside with Dinotrol (+ some Penetrol for luck) , glued up the headliner and blacked out a few bits and pieces. The windscreen i chose from storage (turns out i had 2!) is a NZ made one AUTOFLOAT with the NZS mark on it, and no chips. Thats now sitting in the hole in a brand new LadaPower sourced 2102 rubber waiting for the local glass cowboys to rope it in for me and install the spreader trim (i flippin hate windscreens - i cracked the old one even more popping it out and i dont want to crack this one)

Looks like ive been quadruple booked on Fridey and Satdey and as well am unlikley to have a classic car (or hotrod) in drivable condition for sleep overs Stupid work and rain. Will probably roll in on saturday arvo ish for a poke around the dregs of the swap meet cause i need a gutter mount aerial, plus some other stuff that i will only know when i see it...

Took this in for a WoF today in prep for Kumeu, left it at the place in the carpark pretty early and it FAILED - to be fair the windscreen had a long crack from a stone chip that ran, but i was hoping they would let that annoyance happen on the way home after i got my sticker However given it actually happened a few months ago I had already bought a new screen rubber and some scuttle corner repair panels from ladapower to go with a spare screen i already had 'in stock'. . Got home and popped out the old screen expecting the worst but its its not too bad at all. Passenger side is lush - there are a few bubbles where the rubber had worn the paint thin, but i think they will buff out. The brown stuff is old hard cavity wax Usually the hole around the drain tube blows out but its mint Bit worse on the drivers but not bad really, the rust is just surface stuff. Amazeballs The worst bit is from the massive hole seemingly made with a big nail right though all 4 layers of steel in base of the toothpick A-pillar for a FM aerial that i wont be reinstalling. The top of the pillar is also affected by the hole for the upper mount and those bubbles on the roof panel overlap will need cutting out and welding So this weekend will be spent cleaning up the surround and prepping the roof and scuttle for a coat of paint or two in time to get the screen in and Woffed in time for next weekend. I knew it needed to be done and was planning on it, just didn't want to do it like right now, in the flippin driveway. Lucky it looks fine for most of the next week or so!

Cor.... giz! bring to Kumeu for OS 'easy weekend project' using parts found in swap meet treasure hunt

Shuddup and take my money! Boss level work.

Flippin eck - will need to get a WoF on something and come stay for a change - whos keen for a compound? I have a pile of shit i should sort out and take to sell - will you be in the swappa area again Denham? Keen for some a commission based sales position ? bound to be one at the swap meet. Fit it in the carpark and you can claim were taking it to a place of repair on Mondey.

Tortron is right. Easy set up and clean down is impotant but having a layout favourable to being able to keep the thing clean(ish) and not get in each others way while its pumping is the difference between having fun creaming it and a chore thats not worth it. Can i have a double with passionfruit and hokey pokey in a waffle cone please

Coffee and rolled ice cream are both pretty time consuming and messy to make. Be surprised how much the demand crosses over too When busy you will need min 1 staff for each station and maybe a person taking orders - something to keep in mind when arranging the layout. Limit the flavours and have add ons like fancy cones and sauce/toppings for max revenue in min marginal time. Iced coffee (scoop, shot + ice) is also something people seem happy to pay too much for.

watching this closely...for a friend* *Food/coffee cart is my 'fuck all this' back-up plan Are you doing soft serve, icepops or rolled? [trigger/] I used to work in a beach shop that had rolled ice cream and fuck saying all the flavours and then rolling that sticky shit all day, for entitled kernts and their whining spawn. packet ones are way easier - they point at the thing, you take the money, they go [/trigger] .

But then I would have needed to weld another bung ontop of the now flogged out first one #stepdrilllyfe

yeah i did. 18mm hole same as the bung thread i jammed a 11mm deep socket with masking tape on it to centre the bung on the hole/help the magnets hold it up if that what you mean

I also stuck the Innovate MTX-L AFR gauge in as well, so i could tell how bad my tune is big hole and a bung. Looks easy enough but Im very ashamed of my welding, almost impossible to get the torch up top and blew holes and gaaaahhh. I hate welding exhausts. Bung filled plus lashings of exhaust cement. Cable routing looks a bit weird but tucks up nicely over the exhaust and into the gearbox tunnel And then through an enlarged reverse light switch hole All fires up ok, except the sensor wont get out of "Htr" mode, so probably need a new sensor (v4.9) which i was pretty much expecting anyway. ----- @Abarth popped over to drop my shims back and mentioned it sounded like one cylinder was lazy . "Nah mayte, shes got good factory leccy ignition from a Beta, thats just the dumb shit carb being dumb and shit. owl" Anyway, a few days later i pulled the plug leads to check the spark, and #3 definitely had good spark but didnt make any difference to the running. Pulled the plug and I must have caught it on something last time i had them out as it was gapped to over 1.6mm and had slowly carboned itself up really good. Regap and a wirebrush and its much improved. Dumb shit carb is still dumb tho - pretty sure the idle circuit is being bypassed or blocked, and the main is coming on too soon based on the slight dribbling from the venturis - ill swap the spare DMS on and start from as close to factory jetting as i can. Happy New Year and all that, May 2019 bring you many happy classic miles with Pohutukawa flowers all over the place and sunburn for you all

Ive been poking away at this since dragday. Seems the slight fuel smell that developed durning the day was actually the fuel pump body leaking. What the hell. Anyway gave me the kick up the bum i needed to install all this in here, in prep for the sideys. Speaking of which, another manifold popped up on trademe cheap so i grabbed it hoping it might be a bit different (specifically have a bigger space between two middle barrells) from the two i have. Nope exactly the same - if the rear two were on the same angle as the front they would be perfect - there is heaps of clearance in the rear of the engine bay, and these were specifically made in NZ for 125 to have sideys fitted by the dealer (to make 125T) . I dont get it, its weird. Pupper still likes it so thats good

Buys italian project vehicle. Is surprised by random issues and electrical gremlins.

Best* way to sort out carb issues IMO is to double down on carbs