Rookie

and runs hit and miss ignition...

Yea Mark, I'm changing the final drive to 4pk multi vee, A section is mean for the clutch though, heaps more progressive than Tom's. Yea I'm hanging out for Drome Summit!

Could also add MSNZ multiplication factors for rotary and FI, if you wanted to get tricky

Seeings as the cats out of the bag now, I can put this up. So I started with a bunch of tube. Got Thriller to cut it Straight and True: Then we laid it out on the floor, used the "One eye and Thumb" trueness test and fired up the welder. More welding resulted in this. At that point we ran out of tube, so I got some more and finished the frame. Then we mocked everything up and liked what we saw. Welded up the engine and 'box mounts. Made the clutch. And then Took it stropping. We then decided to blow minds, so we pulled it apart and painted it. And back together. And for those of you who missed it at the drome due to the broken belt, here are some videos. 3l97tKSVFEE vNWbEAayel0

You guys seen this?http://www.fixedgearfever.com/modules.php?name=Velodromes&op=list&cid=nz Pretty sure its not comprehensive though.

Book me and Thriller in Bizzo.

Marton looks awesome, not to mention pretty central, but I wonder how close those houses are? I don't really want to be chased by an old lady with a broom or some shit. Also I veto Shannon, that place scares me....

As opposed to what? The engineering brilliance that is the piston engine? Looks to have merit, sealing, like all things at rotate, would be the problem though.

I have one of those on my Lotus. What I did was took the extra adaptor that came with the gauge to the local radiator shop and got him to easyflow/solder it onto the side of the filler cap piece I already had. You could probably do the same but just add a straight bit of copper pipe as opposed to the filler cap like I did. You can just see it in this photo.

Wrong colour and it was very flat even though I asked for gloss. Basically I wanted the suspension rockers etc to be the same colour as the bling Hope stuff on the bike and it wasn't.

^ This, mostly valve spring rate I would guess. Ned have tried turning a cam over by hand? It's quite hard. Also, propellers, Ned.

I was going to give these guys a shot. http://anodizing.co.nz/ I got a bunch of parts off my bike done when I was in CHCH but I was sorely disappointed. It only cost me $40 for just about every alloy part on the bike so not too bad I guess.

Still go better than a piston motor.

Yes. 12a turbo is 8.5:1 and a 12a is 9.4:1. Sick project, should do mad skids when finished!

I can drop it off on friday after work.

I could always bring it to bike summit et al.

Sweet let me know, I only want a hundy for it, comes with coils and carbs, its a bit ratty looking but does run and could be tidied up pretty easily. I just can't see myself using it.

Looking good man. I've got a cb350 motor sitting in the garage, if you want a few more cubes I could be pursuaded to let it go.

Pretty much max revs is determined by piston acceleration, which is mostly governed by the stoke, hence short stroke=more revs.

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32653 Get some learning into ya! I don't know if you have ever played with twin webers/dellortos (probably not I'm guessing), but they have very little manifold vacuum at anything but idle. As the OP clearly stated that he is going to run them, and asked "Do I need to use the vacuum advance?" the correct answer is no, he doesn't NEED to hook it up and there will next to no benefit from doing so, there would be much more to be gain by getting the dizzy recurved to the carb/cam/compression combo that he is planning on running. If this was using the stock manifold/carb then sure there would be gains to be had by hooking it up.

All it does is add a small amount of advance to the ignition when there is manifold vacuum, it is there to promote clean burning at idle to appease the hippies, nothing else.

Vacuum advance is just for better emisions at idle, unsure why you are messing around with it?

Top work bro, this is mind blowing. I assume you pinched the actual clutch basket from something, do you mind sharing what?

The reason you use a boost referenced (1:1) or Rising Rate (anything more than 1:1) FPR is so that as you add boost the fuel pressure doesn't "appear" to be decreasing. As you add boost the pressure differential across the injector gets less, so say you had a base FP of 43 psi and 10 psi of boost, your injectors will see a pressure differential of 33 psi. so what a boost referenced FPR does is adds 1 psi of FP for every 1 psi of boost, so when you are on boost your injectors will still see 43 psi of FP. Similarly a Rising Rate FPR will add (in your case) 1.25 psi of FP for every 1 psi of boost, so your injectors will see a differential of 45.5 psi and hence will flow more when on boost. Rising rate FPR are kind of a work around for not having big enough injectors, or using the stock ECU with extra boost, they can be used to good effect with a custom tune though, so don't count them out for that either.

If I remember correctly Brocklee said that his cert dude said that as long as he can provide calcs to show that it's as strong if not stronger, then sweet. Just do that.