Rookie

Mostly because the factory OMP puts sump oil into the engine and at the end of oil changes you are putting well used oil in which doesn't lubricate the seals as well. Also by running premix you are burning oil that is designed to be burnt and then you can run synthetic oil in the sump.

You have to be careful though if you plan on using a fire extinguisher as a gas bottle, I have just been refused a fill by supagas because it is painted red not grey? or something, it would have been cheap though about $80 for 5 m3 of argoshield, I just took the bottle into the local tradezone store and they send it away to supagas. I got the people that check the extinguishers at work to fill it with co2 so not really a problem. This is for mig though, but just sharing my supagas experience.

Na it will be a NZ assembled vehicle, in which case it won't have the normal type codes stamped on the tag, we have our own set of codes and as far as I'm aware no one here has bothered deciphering them. The best bet is to jack it up.

I'm down for the 3rd, it would be awesome to meet some of you guys for real. I might see if I can pull the Alfa out of the shed for the event.

I just found this, it's for Webers but they are pretty much the same. http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/rasorcom.htm

Just buy a couple of these http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/carburation-induction/auction-419846075.htm and away you go. Depends on if the throttle shaft is munted, but really thats about the extent of what can go wrong, they are really simple and very easy to understand.

The reason they have external ballast resistors is so that when cranking the starter it by passed the resistor and gives it 12v instead of 7, this makes the spark more powerful and enables easier starting. So when you put in the resistor and coil then also makes sure you hook up the bypass wire to take advantage of the easier starting.

That part number he posted is for a 7v coil K-Trips, and all the ke70's I've seen had them. Make sure that when you put it in you do it properly so you get the advantages of it.

Yea, I reckon that that will be your problem, the coil will produce very weak spark if its overheated. On the plus side they aren't very expensive.

Hey, Does your car have a balast resistor conected to the positive side of the coil?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_tuneup Basically find a big hill and do repeated full load pulls up it.

This points me in the direction that you have a 7v coil and no balast resistor. Check and see if this is indeed the case, it should say on it. If it is then the coil could be overheating and causing the problems. Does the miss happen straight from cold? or does it only occur once the motor has been running for a while?

They shouldn't be that tiight to wind in, the last ones I did I could wind them in by hand. Unless I read it wrong and you broke it torquing it up? I would suggest getting one of those koken allen sockets and an approprate tap and clean the threads. Use some copper grease on the threads too.

If you can't see the problem with shooting a LPG bottle thats in a fire I rest my case.

Sounds like its a pity no Darwin awards were handed out....

/ all of them....

What supossedly happens is that the rings don't bed in to the bores as well as they could, and you lose a little bit of compression, and also burn oil. Whether this is what happens in real life is the real question. I guess you would have to build multiple identical engines to find out.

With the alternator charging you should see 13.5-14.5v across the battery terminals. There are a few different things that can go wrong with them, and its usually quite hard to tell whats the problem without the correct tools. Best bet is take it to an auto sparky, if its a minor it'll be around $40 if its a major a couple of hundy will fix it.

Extractors out the front guard? like this:

The cam timing hasn't been altered has it?

The Kent in my Lotus 7 filled up the 1L catch can after a few laps on the track and a bit of spirited driving on the street, and seems to be fine by all accounts, I just think they breath a bit heavy. If it still has good compression and passes a leak down test I would just try and sort out a system that traps the oil vapour better.

The vvti heads are the worst flowing of all jz heads and struggle to make power above factory spec withoug serious work. But that said, they are much nicer to drive at standard power levels as they have a much nicer torque curve.

Yup, I agree with you that #6 will melt first, but it has nothing to do with big boost. If you look at the design of the inlet manifold, the #6 runner gets the least air, and so it runs rich and it's that what fucks them. I've been on the Nissan Diesel forum for a while, and they are very very conservative, go to a Cummins or Ford diesel forum, and you will get a real appreciation for what diesels can do. The only reason you run a boost compensator is to stop it blowing coals when off boost. The way to kill a diesel is to give it too much fuel and not keep the EGTs under control, which you do by adding air ie boost. I have to disagree with you on the slow of the line thing, and so does: 3qkxi7wOU5E A 1.5 second 60' is hardly a slouch in a 2.5t truck. If you do have a turbo that is a bit laggy you can fiddle with injector pump timing to bring them on earlier anyway.

Na, thats why you don't run lots of back pressure. The heat generated from the boost will be insignificant compaired to the heat generated by running rich. Theoretically you could run it at 50 psi, without adding fuel and it would be no different to the stock motor. I would aim for a biggish turbo with a custom manifold and pump upgrades. If you are really game compound turbos would be key.

PM bzrse7en over at http://www.lotus7.co.nz, he's got one and is in Chch