Rookie

Yea, just line it with that gold heat shielding, will be super cash/ f1 car hahaha

I dare say just your usual 2k clear will do, I have seen engine blocks painted with 2k that have stood the test of time so I see no reason why it won't work. Make sure you go to town sanding it before you spray it though, I was amazed at how great the bonnet scoop I made came out after I sanded it with my DA and then hit it with clear.

This is next weekend, is anyone going? Keen to catch up with others if they are, but otherwise I'll just party with Swedish Magnus...

Holy Fuck, this thing is just too cool. Great work chap, keep it up!!

The resistor you put in the ECU is to set it up for hall effect/opto. The extra pull up to 12v is to create a voltage differential between open and close on the points to make it easier for the ECU to pick up the trigger points, think of it as a light switch that is only connected to ground, you can see when it is close if you supply your own voltage but otherwise you don't know if it is open or closed, add the phase wire and then it is much easier to see because the light bulb works without needing to supply your own voltage. I would add it anyway just to be safe, but like downtrail said it will probably work without it. Also hand, in this setup you won't get those voltage spikes as it isn't connected to a coil so no emf, the points are just acting as a simple switch.

Awesome work, hydraulic splitters are so legit. If you find yourself getting bored at some point may I suggest adding a hydraulic lift to the side, that way you don't beat yourself up too bad lifting a thousand rings off the ground.

That is kinda a dumb rule really; my bmw had a wild steering wheel shake at 120 on the motorway to the point where I had to drive slower than the traffic, fitted hub centric rings to the front wheels and now it'll sit at 150 no problems/ keep up with all the new mercs and beemas hahaha So even if it isn't required by cert, do it anyway, hubcentric rings are cheap and then you know they are right.

I have been involved with 3 cars that use these sensors, They seem to be pretty robust. The added bonus of being able to adjust the distance they are from the trigger. You will have to add a pull up resistor though, but that is just a resistor soldiered between two of the wires. All aftermarket ecus will prefer the signal from one of these. http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659328/

Just put a 36-1 on the crank and use a hall effect sensor, seriously don't bother with a vr sensor. Fitting a trigger wheel to a crank pulley is pretty easy if you are smart about it/ your engine manufacturer didn't cheap out on materials haha

Oh and I have a 3 mobile SIM card that is super legit and it treats all of Europe as one so you get no extra charges.

Now I'm living in Denmark I am doing basically exactly what Spence said. I use Google on my phone, it is a bit of a bitch on the motorbike because Google maps uses GPS, cell tower, plus internet information to get super accurate data on traffic and road works and lights and shit so it whores the battery pretty bad, but a car it isn't a problem as you can just charge it. But yea Google maps is definitely the answer.

Just to back up what Spence said, 2k is no problems at all, I sprayed all the glass on my 7 In it, and some of it was onto raw glass not even gel coat.

They must kill the buckets no?

How is a laptop tuneable ecu not a custom one? Hahaha That is in essence what I was saying.

Custom ECU should be any car modifiers top priority IMO. Makes dealing with any changes a breeze.

How do you get 550 on a cam on bucket?

If you just run a crank wheel then you will only be able to run wasted spark, and batch fire injection; neither of which is a bad, just not optimised for economy. If you want a tps you can use it for accel. enrichment and over run fuel cut etc but it isn't mandatory on a map sensored injection system. Basically depending on how techy you want to go with it will depend on what the ecu will need to see, but all ecus should be able to deal with simple injection setups.

The K head isn't cam on bucket, so you get a huge advantage there in terms of lift and allowable cam profiles. Low lift flow is paramount to making a motor drivable, and again Honda killed it in this respect. Basically it isn't much trouble to get a Honda head to flow 370+ cfm at 28", which is phenomenal. Also it is reasonably common to see K series on 60mm ITBs, which is needed to keep up with 370 cfm. The real magic of hondas is how they manage to keep a 99mm stroke bottom end together at 10,000 rpm...

LOL Roman, great analysis. Yup a Beams is basically a K with smaller cams...

Use por15 tank sealer, it is still the best thing in the market.

Spencer is into it.

Wait what? Just use the 6 speed, they are Fucken great.

Spence is probably going to shoot me, but I put 1k etch under 2k primer hahahaha

Yea that toptul set is mean. And as Spencer said, slap stick is A++/ must have. but like all things you need different tools for different jobs.

No Tom, that is for rust repairs hahaha