mjrstar

Hardware, software or both? I'm about to dip my toe into performance diesel (if such a thing exists) and would be keen fit it to ingest only the freshest of air.

I suspect that the breakaway torque each time you went to creep up on the 105 degrees means there is a decent chance that you'd apply more torque than a single swing to 105 degrees. It might well be like @Hemi says and not matter because the clamping load has been met and that's what keeps the head gasket happy. If I'm wrong on this though I'm happy to be educated.

What sort of duty, would a Battery drill or impact driver be an option?

You won't need to do that anyway because we know you are putting an 8 speed dct and paddle shift in it like all the cool kids have been doing for a while now.. https://www.domi-works.com/collections/dct-adapter-kits

If they are milled to the correct pcd not wildly oversized and there is still a good land for the bolt head I don't see too much of an issue. Welding the chromoly then remachining for trueness opens up some potential headache in my opinion.

Those sump design bits look ok, but I don't see where the dry sump pump connects. Are you looking to add the fittings in later?

This is probably a moot point, but i wanted to bring it up. We all know why we swing the intake cam for rev range and performance gains, and everyone says exhaust cam timing is barely worth the effort, and you can't go bigger cams because the valves clash...... But...m Consider this, what if you swing the exhaust cam on its own vvt strategy purely to get the valve out if the way to allow even more wild intake cam size and timing? / Probably wouldn't work dumb idea?

3d print then sand cast the sump.

That looks ok where it is, just start connecting shit up pls.

Just get a flywheel, cut the ring gear off it to make it light as possible, then find the suitable flexi plate from auto and sandwich between crank and flywheel.. hey presto. Nissan box to Evo motor in my mx5 runs this setup with an ee80 or whatever flexi plate off the ground from pick a part.

Will the j160 be capable of full rpm shifting you are planning? /k24 swap.. Less pistons to carry around. high rpm na talk Makes me fizz about pulling the 1ggte out and finding a Hayabusa for my old bug-eye starlet..

A bit of extra positive caster, and increase in wheelbase is a good thing, so long as tilting the upright isn't hurting steering arm angle which can cause bump steer. (caster makes you faster) It helps self centre the steering wheel and will also help the car camber the wheel in when turning so less scrub on the outside edge of your tyres. Within reason with a power steer assisted race car you can't have too much caster.. There will be a bunch of race escorts out there with a bunch of different solutions, but would some swaybar brackets that allow the bar to be mounted slightly further back might work with maybe some minor clearancing up front, or as others have said maybe a well with less offset would help.( And also reduce scrub radius)

No jokes about doing a chassis swap to stop it being a hunter? It sounds a bit like a sticky iacv that is overcoming a spring, or target idle off from from actual idle trying to control ( this is what @kpris on about) but I'm not familiar with the 4age setup. What sort of frequency is it hunting, once every 2 seconds or every 10 seconds etc... You could check with a timing light to see if it's dancing around a bit, as a timing change at idle will affect rpm. / Do whatever @kpr said.

Looks great, I have found that a satin clear coat on the carbon shows up less of the imperfections than a gloss for the DIY'er

@tortronuse your 35/64 socket. IIf you are sticking with a new 14mm socket you could look to linish or machine the lead-in off your socket to get better purchase at the base of the head, a couple of mm taken off to remove the champher would give you slightly better chance..

And ~1200 in stock, shipping immediately, so I hope they would be able to spare 4 for your project.

The ones I used on my starlet and Mazda look a lot like these ones, I just used a bit of aluminum plate and thermal paste. https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/ohmite/HS50%204R7%20J/5307879?utm_adgroup=Resistors&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_DK%2B Supplier_Ohmite Manufacturing&utm_term=&productid=5307879&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq5meBhCyARIsAJrtdr55xEU4CNxTp8IdiTz7fE6te4Z9svy0WkKEO1Bxo5Z5Yp-Ab_etCBoaArvZEALw_wcB

Have you measured the ohm's of you existing injectors? Generally low impedance is under 4 ohm's and high more in the 11 or 12 range.

Had a plate made from a drawing, worked out pretty well other than having to adjust the starter depth with a secondary spacer

Yeah @sr2 rwd 4g63t has its place, here is my home job build.. Vr4 6 bolt block, Evo 4+ head td06 20g turbo, kelford tx 264 cams, rb26 nizmo flywheel and clutch, Nissan cd009 6 speed, carbon fiber driveshaft, Evo ralliart plate LSD etc.. For the amount of fab work and headaches, selection of gearbox and clutch options.. and having seen how they perform I think an f20c honda with stock ECU stock manifolds, stock clutch stock gearbox would be so much better in my opinion..

Come to old-school, suggestions on best 4cyl include rotary, V6 Mazda, and Barra.

Millington

If best and easy and Honda are requirements then f20c or f22c are the way to go. So long as you can open your wallet wide.

If you are looking for tan colored bucket seats the na mx5 came with may work, not too busy etc. Although not sure how easy to track down these days..

I got this kit a few years ago ( or at least one pretty similar), has been fine for home jobs, and the little gun was handy for the terrible job of painting roll cages. Pretty sure it was a bit cheaper than that when I got mine but goes hard for what it is etc.. https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO