mjrstar

looks like the blatantly borrowed idea for the intercooler pipe swaging tool works a treat.. Tom / Testament suggested hammer use was required although i'm not sure what i should have been using the hammer for so i missed out that step. I have been discussing ideas to ensure a more than capable cooling system.. to ensure best cooling capabilty good flow from the back of the head is a must. Although not sure if machining a new fitting for the back of the block or a pick-a-part frankenstein is a better idea...

Either Thursday night or Saturday will be fine man...

Yep. Do you still have my number / when would you like to pick it up?

I am a bit of a fan of suitably large brakes, are you sure you will get enough braking capacity for the pace the ute will be able to pile on with the turbo 4ag( not taking the piss), with any brake combo which is packaged under 13'' wheels. / not very helpful

FINALLY made some progress on the dreaded gearbox mount... looks like it should do the trick.... also got some bits for the intercooler piping..

Yeah the plan is to leave the nipples at the bottom and remove / flip the calipers for bleeding. Not ideal I know but if the braking system is behaving they wont need bleeding too often. Depending on clearance I might even go back to evo 4 twin pots or rx7 4pots so plenty of options for calipers on the rx7 knuckle bolt patter. I have seen nasty uneven pad wear where the caliper piston lead in is incorrect.

If there is a hex head screw in the top of the strut rod undo this and any pressure will vent out... This is how the Aragost'a in my evo 4 are set- up (Although they are inverted strut type)

Keen of doing a Satin type finish on the mazda - do you have to stick with the finish straight off the gun or is there some finishing work you can do on it - sanding buffing etc?? The last car I painted was the starlet in acrathane (spelling) which i hit with some 1200 grade and then the buffer with some cutting compound.. which was ideal to say bye bye to some of the inperfections.. I fear if i don't have the luxury of doing some finishing work the top coat straight off the gun may be none too flash.. in which case i would flag the satin finish and carry out in a similar manner to the starlet..

^^ Not really... You will only see a boost leak of it's massive and you are failing to make full boost. I had this happen when i split my manifold open it would only make 5-6 psi instead of 20 psi.

So I'm back from my holiday and had a tinker around in the shed yesterday, i am still putting off building the gearbox mount so decided to strip and clean the master cylinder. seals and bore were mint, there was a bunch of sludge in the front portion of the bore, but it all cleaned up pretty nicely.. Minor problem with the fitment to the booster with the pushrod being too long even when adjusted fully in, i guess i can cut it down and reshape the ball end. it'd be easier than spacing out the master away from the booster. Will have to chat with the champion behind the tig regarding the 100mm thick cooler, I think it should work with nice short piping if the inlet and outlet are moved, or could be run as is with longer pipework. it probably needs to be changed as the 3 inch ends are probably a bit over the top.. Still on the hunt for tasty suspension keeping an eye out on YAJ etc...

Generally the "fuel" cut is actually sensing excess air or something untowards and providing protection, the best place to start will be to look for any signs of boost leaks, or problems with the air flow meter.(if the car has AFM) if not you'd need to be looking for the map sensor and checking hoses for any leaks... also check that the car is not overboosting once again excess airflow. If it's not actually hitting the cut check plug gaps and heat range but this should give you a more consistent miss-fire rather than the cut you describe.

Thank you fine sir, after a second viewing I did come across the link as mentioned above.. Looks like I need to sort my M licence and get myself some proper safety gear first..

Any details on vehicle spec required. I have a few to pick from in the shed but none are caged.(yet)

Or tilt the bike to go around a corner. I run an anchient su electronic pump and no reg and it doesn't leak. I am still working on jet sizes as I only run two carbs on the mini.

You seem to list a couple of 2 litre 4 cylinder turbo engines but missed out 4G63T, which I believe is a far better option than a 3S or SR. if you want it to sound cool go for a 1ggte /but don't because they are hard to find good bits for..

Yeah cheers Richie. I am hoping the smile factor is on par with the starlet.

With a bit of digging I found some 4x114 hubs with a 33mm ID bearing from errr.. a Hyundai Santamo - whatever one of those is.. Anyway before forking out on a set of new hubs it seemed prudent to mock up the likely position to see if it's possible to package it within the 15 inch wheels... Things are going to be close.... It's going to be close everywhere and would be dependent on finding just the right disc. The hub offset will mean the car will need somewhere between 40 and 50mm wide to cover the tyres.

Found a bar and plate intercooler on the tard for $120 which should be up for the cooling duties given the modest power target. the other smaller intercooler is the factory unit from my evo..

Finally got my hands on a replacement fuel tank which is mint inside.. Also decided I have done enough welding on the sump.. Finding the puzzle piece (fuel tank) should mean the rear subframe and diff can stay installed from now on.

i used a short magnetic based spirit level to ensure the engine and diff were on the same angle (at a different height) if that makes sense.. I just stringlined 90 degrees to the spirit level measured the distance then used a bit of 5th form maths /busted out the scientific calculator /smartphone to reveal ~1.5 degrees. NB this was for the mazda with IRS.

^^ Must have been the thread title that put you off..

^^ No Honda parts...- Damn I already have honda lights and bell housing bolts from an H22a prelude.. I also went to Pick a part on the weekend and grabbed a subaru legacy steering column universal to start on the custom shifter assembly for the 6 speed.. -more on that when some real progress is made.. Flywheel has the same pcd as the vr4 crank, and clutch plate is the same spline as the gearbox so it's a bit of a no brainer really.. plus it was something silly like 12,000 yen / less than $250..

clutchy type stuff turned up from Japan. it's an R32 GTR Nismo unit.

Have a bit of a google/ buy a book of David Vizard tuning for BMC a series.. He covers off the why's and hows before getting too deep into things..

You will get a small amount of clunking with a plate LSD when on / off load. It may pay to have someone else listen to it before you pull it to bits..