mjrstar

i had originally planned to run a w box in the Mazda. But the price they demand for an old box i couldn't justify.. I hope the late model 350 z box works out...

What sort of RPM is it doing? My 4D56T triton ute is on about 2100 rpm at 100kph.. it has a 3.9 diff and 295 50 20 rubber which is around 31.5 inches i believe.. 5 speed manual.. it's no powerhouse but that's kind of to be expected with 2 tonne of ute, being dragged along by 2.5 litres of deizzzzel power.

Na just 16 cylinder.

I have not just been ignoring this... i have been busy collecting bits..

The turbo motor should have the larger diameter clutch from memory.. my 1G had a bit of a leak from the rear of the rocker covers too so plan on doing a bit of a clean up around that area before jamming the box back in... i had the box out in around an hour and back in in about 45 mins.. plenty of room in the starlet.. it's also easiest to take the starter right out..

i have run wast spark COP for a few years on my evo, I do run resistive plugs and have not had any dramas...

the reason for the noise from the old motor became clear... not too sure how that piston got turned 90 degrees... but yeah when there is only half a conrod i guess anything is possible...

if you have a welder why not have a slow purge with inert gas whist carrying out said weld. maybe 8-10 litres / min of CO2 or suchlike? Beats a repeat fireball??

Yeah a good price. I pretty much have my heart set on a late model 350z box from the states.

Small capacity v6's are failburger for adding boost, think conrods which are only 12-14mm wide at the big end... no thanks

Got the new water pump in and fixed up the ignition timing and new the little 1.6 is humming along nicely. (It feels less asthmatic than the only other mx5 i have driven) Also sorted the front swaybar mounts so they are nice and solid, and got the lights to play the game (a bit of a mission with the weird wiring!!) The plan is to leave the running gear in to keep it mobile until the 4g63T is built and has a gearbox hanging off the back of it In the brake department the current thinking involves a larger 17/16ths master cylinder and some bargain basement 4 pot callipers (maybe Mitsi GTO 4 pots unless someone has something suitable they are wanting to sell at a sharp price?) and an upsized disc which will still hide under a 15’’ rim. It looks like using a larger rear disc with the factory calliper spaced outwards to suit is probably going to be the simplest effective option on the back.. Might be time to raid pick a part with a ruler! i can upload a pic of me giving the fingers to a filthy old leaky waterpump if i get hassled about the non photgraphic update?

They are around 940 kg i believe.. Will aim for sub 1000kg with all the new gear in it. Goal will be for a punchy 240-250 wheel kilowatt with full boost at 3000 rpm. Much like my evo 4 but with a touch more boost...

Yeah the cd01 has dramas with synchros. Looking for a cd09 ideally. or plan to de synchro the box as option b. Think face plating ...

The mitsi engine is actually a bit of an interesting plan in itself. The use of a vr4 block will give the optimal layout for engine mount options but the later model head puts the turbo on the passengers side out of the way of steering and master cylinders. Its a bit of mucking about with oil drainbacks etc but should be worth it. in the mean time the night before Bathurst provided the opportunity (after a few bourbons with the helpers you may recognise) to swap out the dead engine with the other "unknown" engine.. but not before confirming that the original engine was in fact DEAD... and yes the noise coming from the bottom end was quite spectacular from either a 2 piece conrod or crank.. anyway the replacement 1.6 is in and goes, albeit with a bit of a coolant leak from the water pump.. the plan is to slap on a fresh water pump and confirm the motor is all good before hocking it off.. oh yeah... looks like 15x8's are not going to cut it.. on the look out for some 15x9's at 0 offset i think, any stud pattern will do as the hubs / brakes will get modded to suit.

Chopped up a couple of bits of steel for the sway bar mounts.. should be beefier than the old weak as piss ones which had been welded before and were pretty sad / busted all round... drilled a couple of holes and they are pretty much ready to weld on.. Possibly not all that elegant but pretty simple / effective

The plan at this stage is to try and hock the complete running gear from radiator to diff and include stuff like the fuel pump if anyone is considering a repower of a kit car or maybe something os and lightweight?? also discovered a bit of a weakness in the front swaybar mounting with the uprated bar in there so will re-engineer something a little meatier for that.. I have no idea around the compatibility of the cas / coils sorry...

Don't knock the 20 inch wheels and 295's. no p plate it went with the old owner...

Picked this up on Saturday, Plan is a nice solid drive-line and a 4g63T under the bonnet. The car had been in a carport for quite some time with the hood down, and it looks as though an animal might have been living in there - Presumably a poodle.. The outline at this stage is : Engine: Evo 4 head onto vr4 block, with second hand wiseco pistons, grafted together early and late inlet manifolds, factory cast exhaust manifold with an evo 9 turbo flipped to face forward (possibly a mild wheel upgrade) run by and evo 7 ECU. will need to fab up a rear bowl sump and a few other goodies.. Transmission: We snapped up a 4G63 to W series Toyota Bills auto fab custom bellhousing for cheaps, but not 100 % if it's an ideal gearbox choice given the age and popularity these days.. so will keep the options open. (some discussion of a 6 speed 350Z box) Diff: Evo plate LSD - probably solid mounted, but will explore mounting option in greater detail down the track, but probably some form of Mitsi axles I'd imagine? option B would probably be a GTR diff. So yeah that's about it at this stage.. This is a bit of a joint project with a mate of mine who is into modified evos and hondas.. Sunday: I ripped out around 20KG's of extra wiring, including at least a dozen relays, aftermarket central locking, boot popper, 4 alarm sirens (yes 4) 2 separate alarm systems, air horns, spot lights, 7 speakers and 3 kilometres of stereo wiring. I was a little worried things would not be working afterwards, but all is go except the park lights and the hazards.. although when you press the hazard button it does engage the starter. Also has the ultimate in rangi throttle switch which looks to have been used for Water meth injection or some such.. Also ran over it with the buffer and cutting compound as it was just to terrible looking. -still had drivers side to do in that pic. I guess i could post up pics of pistons,engine bits, and bellhousing etc.. but we'll leave that for another day.. Let the flaming begin...

Keen for more details on rollcage design and seat mounting for a little project i have underway. Cheers. Things look pretty tight in there.

It common to restrict the inet between the carb and the head to tone the power down for little kids. Check for this.

I fully thought that this was next week for some retarded reason..

put me down as a tentative at this stage.. will do my best to get there.

It's been a while but i think the Isuzu bighorn ones are like that? crap photo off trademe below was best i could do at short notice this might also solve 1/2 your problem for the non adjuster side lower part?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 561997.htm

^ It's only a small bracket for routing the handbrake cables, i would not have considered welding suspension uprights etc... Bogangeof suggested I whack it with a hammer - and it if doesn't fall off it's then safe to say it's strong enough.

I could put you in contact with my brother in law if you are serious about looking for a house. He's pretty down to earth as far estate as agents go. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YrKuiVHAB0