mjrstar

^ we are on the same page here. The exhaust manifold I made for the 4g63t in the mx5 I stepped up the diameter of the head flange and start of the runners, and left the head stock size. So it has about a 3-4mm lip where the head is undersized from the flange of the turbo manifold. This may be a total waste of time or even counter productive, but the theory was to provide some anti reversion properties. Can always trim back the head, or fill the manifold if I need to I guess.

I thought I mentioned the tip Dia thing here but it may have been over on @yoeddynz thread. If that diesel audi is like my suv, it may have speakers in the exhaust to augment the sound.

That's why the bigger cams need a bigger hot side on the turbo to gain the boost threshold back. Don't go crazy huge on the AR, but up the wheel size and good things can happen. (Within reason) Anecdote: Old mate with fd rally car thought he could run the same smallish g30 turbo on his bridge ported engine that he did on the stock port engine. It sagged the apex seals on the first dyno run, then he fits an egt gauge and understands why. The same gas flow reversion/ lack of scavenge that you'd get from a small turbo big cam combo.

I wouldn't be too scared at running a bit more camshaft than oem, not wild spec n/a cams, but on a nice 4 valve per cylinder head there are gains to be made. I went for some second hand kelford 264's in my old evo, and back to back testing with no other changes it picked up mid range spool, and peak power and earlier peak torque with a couple of psi less boost. No downside in my opinion other than a very slightly choppy idle. Interestingly it increased the pressure figures on the compression test by by nearly 10%. Not sure if this is normal? As @kpr eludes to, you could go for a staggered cam setup which is quite popular for instance a kelford 280 inlet and 272 exhaust is something that i have seen broadly work well across anything from a 2J to a 4G63T.

Borg s200 sxe, maybe in about 57mm.. Probably go bigger on the hot side a/r depending on engine spec https://turbocare.co.nz/products/s200sx-e-57mm-0-82-t3-single-scroll-s257sxe?srsltid=AfmBOortjwsUYOeVcbBUfkFl3SuRsY6Cv3SrqLcJJhosei5GUJsxDKIQ

One thing to consider is camshaft selection, it sounds like it going to be something aftermarket if you are talking about 9000 rpm. What large camshafts do not like (gas flow reversion) is backpressure. So when you go up in camshaft generally you will need to ensure the ar of the turbine housing, and also turbine wheel selection doesn't lead to too much backpressure. Many people think the a 'big' turbo automatically means you raise the boost threshold (not lag), but when paired with the right camshaft, and highish compression this is Lag is to do with wheel mass / momentum, so when you are at an rpm above boost threshold and you mash the loud pedal how soon will the wheel speed (lag behind) the throttle input. I like the deep compressor wheel design that bw have been doing for ages now. Where you get more compression ratio per turn of the wheel. / buy a borg warner, it doesn't need to be a shiny one. Even a John deere tractor one could work. Extra kudos if it's got green paint and the deer cast into it.

Maybe make it sound like a v6 honda* https://www.facebook.com/newzealandrallychampionship/videos/677994621865142/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v * mounted in the back of a jazz with added supercharger, and sequential gearbox.

Are the front camber plates correctly installed? It seems weird that they are right in on the slots and the camber is near zero. I was wondering if they were 180 degrees out, is the side to side centerline mean that you get a change in castor? / castor makes you faster. I added heaps to my racecar and it's great.

Great job, I'm now imagining some poor bastard having to replicate all of this work and more to my bugeye. Ha

Looks like it's trying to be an external combustion engine, but there is still some compression Can you humor us all by swapping back in one of the old glow plugs. Maybe the new one is dead?

Including the bmw aftermarket pipe designed by the wiggles i linked yeah?

Is the tension of the hold down screws jamming it up? Maybe try backing the screws off just a little and see if it fires into life.

Even a short length of additional tube or one size down in tip diameter can have a huge difference in sound in some cases. As @Roman suggests, I wonder what doing some funky slip on tip to go to two smaller diameter pipes might go for you.

I wonder what difference to the sound adding a bit of extra length to say one inlet to make the gas flow times out of sequence.and arbitrary length of let's say whatever a 180 deg bend could be.. I vaguely remember hearing about some new bmw thing my mate has that can have basic the sound of two 3 cylinder toyota gr yaris's, or a grunty 6 cylinder by ofsetting one set of pipes length by something like 150mm. It might have looked a little something like this. But as a prototype you just add one ugly bend to one bank and see what happens. As maybe yours is too perfectly even? Perhaps an option to try on the older version with the cool looking centre exit. https://store.activeautowerke.com/products/m2c-equal-length-mid-pipe-patent-pending-includes-active-f-brace

They look mint, sometimes the ends splay open when they shit the bed.

Did the glow plugs come out complete? Ie not missing my bits that fell off into the combustion chamber?

If you want to make it faster, maybe try running it on petrol instead of diesel. As some petrol cars are quite fast.

SO MUCH FLASH! how much meat have you got in the cam cover to create the strut brace clearance you need? it looks like its just on the drivers side, or is the coil cover also in the battle for real-estate?

quick question for the WOF guys, im considering getting a wof on my trailer after quite some hiatus, and I recall some chit-chat about rego plate location and orientation. i have a vertical mounted plate affixed the the r/h mudguard. i have searched and found that they need to be mounted upright ( which i believe means not laying flat) but nothing about horizontal is mentioned. then "at the rear" like right at the back, or will i get a pass with it on the guard. So yeah just deciding if i need to relocate right to the back, (where it will get fucked because its a tilt trailer) and re-wire for a rego plate light or if its still ok as is. Cheers

The ins and outs of these direct injection injectors aren't really my jam, but is there a chance due to high operating pressures that these are pilot operated, relying on fuel pressure to actuate?

I just bent up 10mm round bar for tiedown loops. Not sure I'd hoon an open ended loop like the above for restraining even a smallish car. It'd be Allgood for collecting useless garbage to store in the back of your already packed to the ceiling shed.

The other thing to think about is attachment method for the ply. In my experience the self drilling gold passivated screws are total poison. I'm not sure if it's the wood treatment, or reaction with galv or steel, but man it's like they are made from Italian cars. I'm tempted to try some coach bolts next time I re-deck my trailer. Slower to assemble but maybe provide greater longevity..

Same happened to a mate of mine, weetbix in under 2 years. We have a work ute that lives outside with the same stuff on it, and doesn't appear to be showing any issues. I suspect the mounting holes and edges must have been sealed with something for it to last as long as it has.

Just cars on it? If so, perhaps not the cheapest, but some galv expanded mesh would probably outlast the universe.

@h4nd Rigidity - Some 3mm wire braid attached top and bottom, loops made from cramps. then apply a bit of tension using some budget turn buckles. you'd need a longer shaft and a top extension to give a bit of triangulation. Put the mounts in far enough back to take your tip measurement unobstructed. Probably a rigid lightweight disc at the blade root. Maybe 5mm aluminum plate 300 diameter would be a low cost worthy addition? Then a smaller one top and bottom maybe 100mm. / can you put 4 blades on and 1/2 the speed and half the width, or does actual maths say otherwise.