mjrstar

There only looks to be the inhibit switch (probably a separate position switch that was on the selector mechanism) and a 7.5a fuse in the start / crank circuit. There is also the main efi relay for the likes of energising the ecu and fuel pumps etc.. But it should crank (but not fire) without this main relay energised.

You are obviously a smart cookie, as far as upping the boost, there is potentially an easy/ cheap option by fitting an external spring on the waste gate actuator.. So long as the diaphragm has the grunt to overcome the spring. This is effectively kind of like taking apart an external gate and swapping in a heavier spring.. The other option is to take it for a gentle drive with the waste gate actuator hose removed, this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen on a small capacity petrol but on the big diesel donk with that size turbo free boost may not be that bad.. It may even crack the waste gate off the seat with the exhaust gas pressure under the flapper, and self regulate at a higher boost pressure... What we don't know is the turbo speed, but it's probably already heaps...

Take it for a quick drive with the alternator disconnected, and a good fully charged battery. That should confirm if the ecu is telling lies.

Yeah energy suspension has a full bush kit for all suspension arms at a reasonable price.. Ex usa The ones on my car were actually not too bad so may have already been replaced but did the re-bush anyway..

Check out the floppy diff mounts when you have it jacked up for the clutch replacement.. I don't know much about the oem running gear but did note the diff mounts on mine at 336,000km were pretty poked, and did not help with the gearbox shift quality, as 3rd gear wasn't where you left it when on/off the throttle.. /time for a 4g63t

I only have them in one size, and I don't think the gas flow is quite as well optimised as a conventional cup. Ideal for aluminium where you need minimal stick out, and to be honest I'll often just leave them on for stainless etc..

This will be the bit I was looking at, and scratching my head. Ididn't think about a long downhill, I assumed it was all idle.. It might be worth reviewing the fuel cut on over-run to see if its enabled, and maybe switch it off for a test..

Sounds like it could be a vct tuning error, my tuned xr6t is well on song at 2200rpm, an will happily pull the trailer with racecar up the bombays in 6th at 1500rpm.

I can email @Roman the converted Csv files if required..

Next question, is it actually making 2000 thousand of the rpm's at zero throttle position? Because the idle control is trying to target 900 rpm and it shows a 1000rpm idle target error. So either there is lots of extra air getting into the engine, tps isn't actually zero, or the engine isn't really doing 2000rpm.

Or 3 times..

Not twice.

I swear I only posted this once..

Yeah I see the llg file is encrypted to the ecu, managed to get that sorted. Have sent you an email with a few more questions.. I'm definitely interested in the voltage fluctuations (why an I seeing a max voltage of 18.03v) and the effect this might have on the dwell table and injector dead times..

Are you logging trigger error count? The g4 atom link in my mx5 is losing its shit occasionally and leading up to it there is a rise in trigger errors.

Have you got the log file and the time stamp marked where it started running like a bag of dicks?

Two things: 1, the flywheel can slip on the crankshaft rendering the timing marks useless. 2, the intermediate dizzy adapter drive ( the bit that has the gear on the bottom and slot at the top) can be installed incorrectly.. 2 is more likely than 1, and given your description sounds like it could be a tooth out. Which means you run short of timing adjustment on the mounting slot. The above suggestions from @RUNAMUCK and @nzstatoare definitely all good, I would start with a tdc vs crank position check because it's easy, and sometimes crank pulley removal can suck with the engine in the car, bearing in mind you cannot 100% trust flywheel marks. You could also add some fresh tdc and 10 degree marks to the crank pulley area as a rough timing light guide. EDIT: if the chain slackness is of concern perhaps watching the dizzy rotor or rocker gear whilst turning the motor clockwise and then anticlockwise slightly would give you an indication of timing gear wear.

Is the consensus that the max retard was the root of the temperature issues? Sounds rather glorious it's safe to say, you must be stoked..

Buy differential, make super long driveshaft, strap down, dyno tune, profit? EDIT BELOW... to add something possibly useful or not. You will have to make a bit of a compromise on the idle I reckon, probably to the point where it'll need maybe 30 seconds or more of no load idle / warmup before being able to be happy. I reckon the cold start fuel decay is more about air density change with manifold heat soak and wetting of the head / manifold on start than genuine running of the engine vs coolant and block temp. My 1ggte KP runs nothing in the way of an iacv, (or tps for that matter) and for a track machine built nearly 20 years ago it is a reasonable setup, with decent idle stability once its been running for a minute. Sure this you wouldn't put up with for a road car though.

Would be more concerned with fretting between the pipes, than a small amount of heat transfer, bearing in mind that air is a very cheap effective and abundant insulator and we are not talking about a huge delta between warm water and hot water. Probably gained more thermal efficiency with extra pipe volume and surface area in any case.

I have machined it a bit at room temp, nice sharp tooling, and lots of speed gave an acceptable result for a Bush which is encased. (not a mirror finish, but straight an parallel with a bit of a dull look)

Hey, Another thought, it is pretty common to cook Honda voltage regulators at sustained high rpm. (ask me how I know this) I see you have some sort of aftermarket pulley, if possible I would suggest going larger diameter on the alternator to slow it down.

Yeah they are pretty cheap off aliexpress / wish. Have not broken one yet surprisingly..

I use Pyrex cups in hard to see places, they are all good.