mjrstar

For measuring clamping force you use the area of one side of the pistons (a pair on 4 pots). Imagine pads coming up against a fixed object it's like one set of Pistons is the fixed object. For fluid displacement remember that a sliding piston also has to take up the air gap on the "fixed" side pad so the piston travel will be more when measured than one side a set of opposed 4 pots. A 1 inch master cylinder is a good start, to compare with an Evo with brembos, they run a 17/16 cylinder and have 40 and 46mm pistons.. To maintain a high solid pedal I'd be looking at the 35mm pistons, but as always DYOR. Real question is why go for the 4 pots? Is it to make it look cool, as there isn't too much wrong with a well set-up 2 piston sliding caliper from a performance perspective. If you went for the 25mm you may have not enough force at the pad, so pedal would be high and hard and require more leg effort for same amount of braking performance. If you went for huge pistons you'd end up with long pedal travel before the bite point and potential for making the braking pressure more difficult to modulate.

Well if it's not a pull clutch it sounds like it's stuck on a dowel, or friction plate stuck on the spline.. or maybe pilot bearing has input shaft jammed in there.. Once you are happy there is no hidden bolts I'd gently use the clutch pedal to see if that spreads things apart.

Is it a pull clutch?

Those graphs are cool, interesting that the deviation is so clear when throttle percentage starts to play a part.. One of the guys I spoke to kind of backs this up, he reckons when he swapped to itb’s it became quite noticeable if he didn't get to 100% throttle he didn't get all of the horsepower.. when it was on a single throttle body it didn't seem to matter so much.

OD of the clutch face area is 220mm, centre bore of clutch disc is close to 25.6mm

Open wheel thing is all sorts of cool... I have been talking to people that run individual throttle bodies, and often they talk about how a few percent of throttle change can really help with torque control.. I find with my Honda (stock single throttle body on an 1800)that realistically between say 60% and wide open throttle there is a bit of a change in noise maybe but not a whole lot of torque or power change.. This led me to think of a few questions does having itb's actually give greater torque control, does part throttle at lower rpm perform better than wide open throttle, and if so with an e-throttle, could you set up a table to chase throttle percentage as rpm rises. To this point it'd be interesting to see what a Dyno run at 95% or 70% compares to a standard full throttle run.. presumably under a certain power output there shouldn't be much loss if any? Perhaps @Roman could draw us a graph..

Looks to be 24 spline. Pressure plate part no is nsc624

Are you sorted for flywheel etc? I believe this setup collecting rust in my shed is to suit sr20. The Original plan was to mod it to fit between Evo motor and 370z gearbox, but Nissan rb26 made way more sense once I found out it shared the same crank pcd as early 6 bolt 4g63

You can buy led trailer interface adapters which should eliminate the issue.

I was expecting the gearing to be a bit meh with the small capacity na engine, but it's getting along pretty nicely, definitely more pull in the next gear than I anticipated. Just need to work on your video data overlay skills. EDIT: I use race render, it seems happy to accept most .csv files and will take the data from the factory Honda ecu in my civic, it'd be fine with link ecu data no doubt too. https://racerender.com/Products/index.html

Looks and sounds fast!

Pinion angle, driveshaft length etc.. Has all been covered off yeah?

Yeah if panel steel only then 0.6 is great it gives you more adjustability in the low range due to greater current drop through the wire stick out. (tip to work) Although is 100% rubbish if you need to weld some thick stuff. Wire is pretty cheap, Maybe grab some 0.9 as well and a couple of tips 0.9 tips, generally the 0.6 should be fine in a bigger liner.. My local engineering supplies sells Xcel-Arc which I use, but suspect it's all much of a muchness.

One thing to factor in when gearing up for co2 mig is you'll need a thread adapter to use a normal argon regulator.. Such as: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/other/listing/3770563324?gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeWLObiEjzt92tsZfPaU-opb8YAdYHnlBIL2ZMIdhqGxRwXmBBPNAoRoC-CkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah injector coil resistance could well be further up the shit once a dose of engine bay radiant heat and possibly vibration is applied.. Flow testing in a rig could be a far less challenging set of conditions?

I run an owner bottle 5kg of co2 on my mig, goes hard for what it is.

Can you bar the engine over at rest with the clutch disengaged?

Could the clutch release fork or release bearing be catching on the pressure plate, ie its moved out of the way when the clutch is depressed and gets hung up when released... What sort of noise does it make when it doesn't go? Does it stall the engine when you let the clutch out?

Oh hey FYI, Domain is Thursday night after shakedown in helensville, Raglan is Friday,kaipara Saturday, then the FIA /international do the Jack's ridge Sunday. The nzrc boys don't do the Sunday.

In more linisher chat, I don't do much in the way of heavy steel fab work bit do need a way of tickling up a tungsten from time to time.. I find my baby bench grinder isn't ideal and thought that maybe a cheapo belt sander linisher makes sense.. Anyone using one of these poverty machines? Appears to have a few more watts than the one @Geophy linked back a page or two.. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ryobi-370w-150mm-bench-grinder-sander_p0314864

Better drain the coolant out and take it for a long drive to confirm.

If it's OK running the engine in neutral then yeah it does sound like your lost 10mm socket and it's found its way into the crown wheel.. Maybe if it's not a 10mm socket then that rag from @cletus oil pump drive is in there. Perhaps jack the car up noze down and start it up with the driveshaft removed from the gearbox? Shouldn't be too much spillage from the output shaft for a quick check.

I have an under $10 trademe unit and it goes hard for what it is. I did pay for the Ford specific software in the torque app to get a few extra parameters to show in my turbocoon but this is not necessary for scanning and clearing codes etc.. Edit This is what mine looks like.. Can't comment on other options.. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing/3760913695

Yeah - Or a cracked selector fork not getting enough travel to slide back off.

Sounds a little like 2 gears selected.. Has anyone been fiddling with the gearbox? How much does it rotate before coming to a stop? I'd start by running the prop shaft by hand with the box in neutral and go from there.. Maybe disconnect at diff end if you can't tell which end is stopping the turnage. Edit : too slow I didn't copy @RUNAMUCKhonest..