BlownCorona

probably should make my own topic, but thought you might enjoy this little hijack. the two restos ive completed so far. first up was a 70s (?) bulova quartz john deere watch that i picked up not running and fixed up for my brother who finally got himself into a good career driving big tractors. he was blown away. these were JD employee only and not particularly common. i was stunned at just how many moving parts are still in a quartz watch. it got cleaned and serviced and a new circuit board and crystal. plus i designed and 3d printed a nice box for it with the bulova logo. second was my first real project watch, i had been looking for a nice watch that wouldnt be an issue if i damaged it. settled on this 60s soviet era vostok with a really nice dark red sunburst dial, not running for $50 landed. turns out it had a broken balance staff and i ended up picking up 5 mostly complete movements for $20 landed out of ukraine which gave me plenty of spares which i didnt really need in the end but a great saftey net. Cleaned, oiled, reassembled and shes running great now. both watches placed on some nice hand made bund straps also out of ukraine. very pleased with both of them. also shown is my quite prized breitling windrider, ive always wanted a breitling and i absolutely adore it. i wear it most days, a wee way of being game enough to service that one though.. however i did relume the hands and replace the crown. anyway, you and another of my mates whos into watch making really inspired me to give it a go and i love it. so thanks!

hmmm i swear an oldschooler used to run CNCs at that place.

the calipers looked like race car parts. real nice kits

that would have been the kits transit engineering make. im pretty sure @NickJ used to or still does work there

didnt TRD do close ratio gears for the t50? rare i presume but as mentioned above would help with the gap the synchro's have to cover

if the steering controller are the type that pull different resistances for each button press. there are both stereos that can handle that out of the box, and adapter boxes for the stereos that want a standard input. there are also all manner of adapter boxes, many from axxess, that can handle specific steering wheel controls. super lush having them work so well worth a little bit of money imo

yeah oem 4pk (i think) multi rib. about 80mm

ive got a pretty nice party pulley that came on the crowns sc14 and made like 17psi. since the crown wasnt intercooled it just made heat and no power. could go good on this...

if OP doesnt want this, then i could be interested in it for my chevron.

i would like to assume ill have the chevron sorted by then, at which point id love to see what its making at the wheels

So yeah, im selling it. Mixed emotions really, i dont have any need to sell it but i would like to move onto other things, am asking quite a large number and if i don't get it then i have no reason to sell. I think most of the mixed emotions come from just how great the sale pictures came out.

yes its just the standard bearing, also used on kingswood from memory. costs a bloody fortune from rare spares and is still an incredibly shitty looking bearing, so i intend on machining up a bush from something nice. https://www.rarespares.net.au/rsnz/buy/7800269/bearing-steering-column-upper-hk-ht-hg-hq-hj-hx-hz i think its that part but please dont quote me on it. i took one look at the price and construction and dismissed it as an option.

much appreciated!

i like the shrouding, id like to impliment this on mine

Hey mate. i did sort the steering centering by winding in some more caster (mine was set at 0 degrees) that said id be keen to see your alignment numbers. As for the overheating, I've not done too much on that front while ive been trying to buy a house and all my stuff is in storage. i pulled the waterpump hoping to find missing fins, it was rough but not too bad but it could have been causing cavitation so ill still replace it. the radiator was not blocked either. my assumption was that the heater bypass which runs very high nearly above the valve cover was struggling with air bubbles and ill reroute it lower and with a bleed point. your experience worries me to a degree though. i may look to get a larger radiator for it. also, on this forum we do things slightly different with separate discussion threads so keep the build threads nice and tidy, you will find the discussion for this project here

you called it. from several disheartened attempts at selling this over the last few years, to the cover. well deserved.

i used one of those to check my breitling and it suggested my watch was slightly slow (id be surprised if it was dead on) but i need to fix a few little things before i wear it and check that over a month or so. it seemed to work well though, but on a watch with low amplitude it may not hear it too well.

ive seen the russian stuff, pretty tempted to be honest! wonder how much radium they soaked into them. some have some pretty cool dials, i saw one with a huge radioactive symbol and the cccp emblem. could be tempted on some movements for sure!

I'm just getting into watchmaking now too. Got myself a Breitling (windrider reserve de marche). have wanted one since forever and always figured if i managed to get one then i must be successful in my endeavors and for that reason it feels so good to wear. i plan on being the one to service it for the rest of my life, but am certainly not going to start out working on it so now on the hunt for a cheap non runner of something nice to start out my education. watch resto videos on youtube with good narration are so cathartic and relaxing to watch and have always enjoyed this thread.

theres a sticker guy down here with a brand you might enjoy https://lmtbrk.com/

that plate really suits the jap p plate style. so many look bloody aweful. /oldschool jrpg nerd

put a dyna body onto a 2wd hilux airbaged minitruck chassis

my crown has a massive spring pulling the clutch pedal down, makes the heavy duty clutch feel like butter, i expect you'll notice a big difference.

heat shrink over the cut braid and a hose clamp would be my move unless you dont want a visible hose clamp. you can also get heat shrinkable hose clamps for radiator hoses, can probably get small ones too. that would be a clean way to do it gates power grip i would blow cold air through the hose/plastic fitting while shrinking though to hopefully prevent damage to the plastic nipple