BlownCorona

oh he also mentioned that undesirable things happen with outboard injectors and butterfly valves which likely explains that indy car setup with the butterfly way out on the end of the trumpet making its outboard injectors actually inboard. i can ask him to elaborate if you want but i don't think your going with outboard injectors anyway. i expect it probably something like dragging the fuel out of suspension when it slams into a partly closed throttle or something?

doing something because its cool is always valid.

I spoke to my friend RE roller throttles. i tried to convince him to sign up and post here lol his gut feeling was that a lot of money was spent on peoples opinions and the performance gains from rollers was never really proven (potentially if actually validated these days would show they gain nothing much). He did say that they had a massively positive response from one of the drivers who just loved the response of the double rollers, but when they really drilled down to the bottom of it, it turned out that what he actually liked and misattributed to the throttle design was the lighter throttle spring they had.

finally looked under the hood and saw the 4k eh?

space and spec constraints is probably what drove high end racing to them but better flow is not the same as more flow. Ill ask my friend when i see him monday why they were so prevailent in btcc. the only reason i started designing one is cause they look cool which is the only reason i do anything plus it was going to be a great parametric design exercise (type in what size throttle you want and the model shuffles to suit) i dont even give a fuck about performance, speed limit is the same for everyone and im too poor to go racing lol

spray that tail light in bed liner and itll look even more factory, plus be protected from UV. Gives a great cast style finish.

a guy i work with was involved with the Primera BTCC cars and they ran double barrels, they potentially offer performance and flow increase especially at part throttle as the path is more open and much less turbulant?. as you say at WOT, less so as the butterfly becomes very aerodynamic. see the prior CFD and have a look at the pressure areas on the back of the part open butterfly. also didn't koiengsegg specifically put the freevalve tech on to increase RPM? something about much much less rotating mass in the valve train

oh yes i see, fuel vapour collecting due to reversion. i wonder if you could fix that with cam spec changes and/or vvti fiddling if available. going fully insane, double barrels may also fix that problem. (while also bringing several other, much worse problems). the flow increase for a barrel over a butterfly is so massive its a worthy avenue to explore. pic for others, im certain you've probably made your own charts before

i also have half baked cad files for a parametric barrel throttle i started to design. its something i would like to get back to as they are super sick. project stalled as i dont have a car that wants them. is there any reason why you would be injecting fuel upstream of the throttle? i cant figure out why fuel would pool on the barrel at all?

as you say, perhaps actually getting a satin dark grey might get you where you want?

i also vote no flares unless the wheels were going to fill them out about 2 - 3 inchs further than that photo. It looks (in my minds eye looking to the future) so clean with just the rx nose grafted on like factory.

that's not what the previous owner of my old crown thought. imagine my horror as i cruise down the central north island, Christchurch bound in a sight unseen crown that i knew had a small pulley so id i thrown a boost gauge into my carry on luggage with the thought of checking it but never did. got bored somewhere around Te Kuiti and plugged it in. 17psi so much heat it struggled to go up large hills, and when it started to rain in wellington it got substantially faster lol. thank fuck the original pully was in the boot. cool project man, I hope you figure out how to make the blower howl more, i wasn't ever able to get much

wanna buy a really small SC pully? without intercooling it will make your engine slower and it also wont be able to switch the blower on and off lol.

Tied with Rimfire, your boat has by far the coolest name in the field.

cool wall art though, and i dont think i could afford the remaining 50k even if my dad does really want one

hey Sam.. what's this???

you and i both know the way to go is to spend twice as much and do a worse job yourself.

i was watching a british classic car buy/sell show thing the other day and they wanted to add a shift knob to their alfa that matched better than the aftermarket one it had. the went to see a guy to wood turned things but who filled in the cracks of wood with metals and smoothed them off, it looks amazing. they did pewter for the alfa to match the steering wheel spokes. pewter melts really easily and i rekon that a bit of that here and there on your cabinet would look amazing. oh i actually managed to find a clip that included the whole process https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=349276389564132

this is literally the design philosophy behind 'lifetime oil' (its not lifetime rated if you use the thing beyond the intended lifespan)

can you not just replace the studs for bolts? though looking at your engine mount plan, lifting the motor probably wont be too much of a drama.

i thought he owned an aircraft maintenance business, so i assume he needed avgas for the intended purpose haha

@gibbon one thing you need to bear in mind is, as you know avgas 100/130 and 100LL has lead in it and this will likely kill your sensors fast. i never worked with GA or aircraft that ran this kind of fuel so i dont really know, but the lambda/stoic numbers might also be different to auto fuel. here must be av spec sensors but i can see the price tag now $$$$, would be interested to know what is done differently to handle the lead. edit - i re read your question and now i think this is exactly the problem youre trying to solve.

nah, bloody expensive to get the TRUST headers and most people want them for the sound. on the SC car i wanted the exhust to be as quiet as possible so that i could get the blower. i also dont own this anymore.

as has happened many times im sure, im gonna take both clints and barts advice and smoosh em all together and blast or maybe brush it with some 2k

the head i have has already been vapour blasted and machined way back when. but it still gets grubby finger prints but they do wipe off. i expect that actual grub wont be go good + years of service grime and oxidation yuckness is what i would like to avoid. i will also make sure its very clean its currently completely unfurnished, thanks for the tip ajg. i do like Clints input, perhaps im overthinking it, did you do any primer @cletus?