vivaspeed

Well as a completely unexpected event on the weekend, I managed to obtain a rather large piece of scrap metal, which once went by the name of a Colchester Bantam 2000. I know some people like lathes / tools / workshop stuff so decided to start a (re)build thread. Went with a mate to buy some Land Rover diffs and the guy selling the diffs had a fire damaged Colchester lathe in the corner of his shed - some quick inspection and discussion and we had a deal for the mighty sum of one Ernest Rutherford. These were made from the 1980s through to the late 90s from what I've read and they are still made as a Harrison M250. Although the lathe itself hadn't been on fire, the fire had melted the plastic knobs, some guards and a few other bits, but most of the damage came from the water/extinguishers, and the fact it had been stripped down and left sitting for a few years. It's not complete, the motor is gone (plus is likely to have been 3-phase), the tool post is missing and I have slight concerns about the state of the cross slide. I inspected the headstock, got it turning and checked all the gear selectors, as well as re-assembing the chuck to see if it was all okay. That part should be good. Sprayed heaps of CRC onto the cross slide and tail stock so will leave for a while to soak in. Some gears are missing from the screw cut drive/autofeed so I don't think I'll bother with that. Will save the high cost bits (motor, refurb of stand, tool post etc) until the end when I know that the core bits are not too stuffed - corrosion is very light surface rust and cleans up with some oil and a scotch pad. It will be a reasonable project (to join my other incomplete projects) but if all else fails I should get my money back on TM or from the scrappy (it weighs about 400-500kg). If it cleans up okay and I can get a cheap 1.5hp motor and some other bits as required I might have a basic lathe for under $500. Some pics - Unloading into my garage, weighed heaps (manual later revealed ~500kgs) - engine crane was only just big enough to get it off the trailer. And this is what a real one looks like...

You can probably buy new too from somewhere like Beattie driveshafts if you feel spendy.

Awesome that someone from oldschool bought this. I was watching and very ready to buy but I already have enough Vivas and insufficient garage There are things that can be done with the 1256 and using the 1159 engine heads, raise compression etc. There used to be a common conversion to put a 28/36DCD on them (or a DGAV type thing off a Ford), also the over the rocker cover DCOE setup. I have some books by Coburn and Blydenstein about tuning these engines and apparently with some pissing around with heads and cam you can get an extra 10 bhp out of them - that's like 25% more!! Can scan and email relevant pages? Datsun A12/A15 was also transplanted into them with relative ease.

That was owned (may still be owned) by a guy Murray - top bloke. The 2.3 in it originated from me about 5 years ago when I wanted cash to buy a house - has got Chev 307 pistons, high comp, angry cam, rare CF electronic ignition and started life on injection but he converted back to carbs. Loads of torque from zero RPM. Had a W50 Toyota box behind it. The white 2 door wasn't my car originally, but was very tempted to buy it from him for the engine and general awesomeness. I have a rule though against buying back stuff I've previously sold

I had a place in Gracefield - good facility but a bit run down in places. originally had about 60 sqm then got a bigger place 85 sqm had water, shared toilet and power/lighting. http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm Some others on here also have used / use it.

Yeah the hardening is a bit of a concern. Has only just started so hopefully all is okay but I do have a spare CWP for that ratio but also of unknown condition. Playing with 35 year old diffs isn't any guarantee things will be mint condition!

Anyone got any recommendations for good places to get a diff overhauled / new bearings / shim and set up backlash etc? Took it out a while back for some mig-lock action and after a couple of events it's making a "I'm not happy noise" so I suspect I failed to re-assemble properly and it is slowly eating itself. I might just take it out and reset it myself, but needs bearings etc so don't mind sending off to seek professional help - at least that way it's done correctly. Was thinking about taking/sending to Geartech in Palmy as they are well regarded but maybe someone closer to home? It's an Escort 'English' diff BTW.

Did anybody ever answer your questions? If you want some knowledge/advice about electrical stuff / wiring regs / how to do shit I can give you some pointers but I can't legally do work for you (not registered sparky) although can do work if I find a sparky/inspector to sign it off (I'm an elec engineer so can design and specify but not legally install ). Do my own stuff but not for others. Also have hookups at wholesalers for bits (plus have heaps of 2.5mm TPS cable spare for power points etc).

Don't need carpet Alex - just adds extra weight! Also, if your HB mate down there needs a bootlid I've got a few spare I think, might need a prep/highfill/paint but they are straight and rust free. Maybe the black one off the yellow beast? got a bit of surface rust but not pitted or bent. Don't have quick access as they're at the old mans place now but could eventually get one to Welly and then across the drain to the south island.

I am just finishing up renting a lockup at a place in Gracefield, 24/7 access, good place and a few cars guys there. I'd recommend it but could be a bit far away if you live in city. Not that cheap, but okay overall. It's a workshop type place too so you can work on cars, a lot of storage places don't like that. http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm Also, just noted you said you wanted to spend fuck all. Possibly not what you're after.

The old chestnut that is Class A reg... A car is, and will not be an ATV. However, there used to be a way to put a passenger car on exempt class A without re-registering it as a different category of vehicle. Had my Viva on it for a while until I put it on hold. It is registered as a car, but was under exempt A licensing not the standard one (G, I think). Got a letter from LTNZ earlier in the year saying they were changing rules and only an ATV or certain earthmoving equipment/off road equipment could be licensed under A and that at the next time I bought a license it would need to be back on G. They made it quite clear that it was not suitable for passenger cars. Heaps of guys used to put class A reg on their race cars and A frame them around / dodgy drive. There was a clause in the conditions of the licensing rules that said the vehicle could be used on the road under class A "for purpose of inspection or repair" - I kept that page in my glovebox! You just had to know a mate with a workshop in each corner of the city to say that's where you were going for "repair". A little older and wiser I realised that the fines and consequences could be $400-$600 plus insurance hassles so I bought a better insurance policy - a car transport trailer - sorted. The amount I now spend keeping everything WOF'd/REG'd for only a few days driving per year makes me cringe. There should be a special "low use" license category.

Great progress. It's looking good. The photo of the gearstick/handbrake closeness reminded me of mine - I cut the length of the handbrake down - from the 4 ribs on the rubber bit to 3. Just have to open it up and pull the actuating rod out and shorten by same length. Pretty quick fix if you've got a mig at home. Although how often does the handbrake need to be applied when you're in 2nd or 4th? Are you going to run a standard dizzy or a -GZE CAS and coil pack? Look pretty tight for a full dizzy near the turbo (or could just be angle of the pic).

lol They're foreign so not sure they'll get the car scene thing... although as they are engineers/from engineering companies I would expect they would have a healthy interest and appreciation of the fine machines. The drivers, maybe not

Are people making their own way up, or forming some sort of convoy ex-Welly? Not sure if going to turn up as have to escort dignitaries around work in the afternoon and might run late.

Develop into ride on mower racing? Use the velodrome NASCAR style with mowers (sans blades)... The old man's ride on recently ran a bearing and he bought a new one, old one is knocking around and would be an excellent chassis for some conversion. What kind of vertical shaft small engines can you get / modify? Turbo a Briggs and Stratton?

I'm going up Sunday for a look, keen to do convoy or share car, but might not cruise oldschool because my daily driver has far less noise, vibration and harshness, and is generally a nicer car to travel in (plus it has iPod compatible stereo). Will decide on the day.

haha tempting - it's awesome on the road - but has a lack of night time forward illumination thanks to me butchering the engine bay chassis loom. Rewiring headlights is a future project. Celica it is then - murphy's law dictates it will have a flat tire and battery when I get it from my workshop tomorrow...

I'm a newbie, don't know anyone, but might swing past for this. Nothing oldschool of mine is road legal (because they're projects or racing cars) except an '85 RWD Celica - I wouldn't really class it as old-oldschool but it's kind of old - so might bring that along.

Well done on Cert. RE: Bushes - I have posted part numbers for someone else on here once, The superflex/superpro ones are awesome - got some from Stocks when they were the agent. Cost arm, leg, and other minor body parts but so easy. Part number cross references to something from the British Leyland stable from memory, maybe Triumph? Other thing you can do and I tried this once was find someone that sells rubber/nolathane/urethane rod - there was a place in ChCh that I got some from possibly Mulford Plastics, or Ludowici - and you can turn it up to suit, but its terrible to machine. Just pop your old crush tubes back in.

Good luck with the cert Alex - should all be sweet with the quality of workmanship you've put in. I like your references - is that the book Tuning Vivas and Firenzas by Coburn and Blydenstein? Also tells you where to gusset everything on the chassis so it doesn't put apart due to the sheer power produced. Wheel clearance is an essential mod, mid sized club hammer works well. No fancy cut and weld necessary - just bash it until required clearance is acheived! It's always more than you think becuase if you turn in under brakes more clearance is required.

Awesome pic, thanks Truenotch. Are there event pics up somewhere? I think that was when I stuffed up my entry to the corner, was in the wrong place, turned in too sharp and the back came around... good fun Nicely shows new DTV door decals, drivers side one I lined up on the top line of the door, not the bottom line so it looks a bit skewed. Passenger side is better though. Vinyl transfers are really crap to put on a car. New 4AGE went well apart from gremlins that crept in and loosened the exhaust manifold bolts during my runs

They are 7/16" UNF from memory, smaller than Escort which would be (by some dodgy logic) 1/2" UNF.

Superflex bushes UK do a kit of 2 (30 quid) of 4 (60 quid), which you could get through Stocks - and I think Supercheap do Superpro which is the Australian version of it. Part No is SPF0070K When converted back to Kiwi that still puts a set at $60-120 depending on how many you get, but still cheaper than $160/side. Check out their website or Stocks. Also, from memory the listing cross references with Triumph something, maybe Dolomite. Second hand arms would probably be all worn out and poked so if the car is any good then probably worth getting new.

Dizzy problem is sorted, homemade puller bracket jig, welded a threaded rod on, some heating and just wound it out. Couple of false starts, and for some reason at one point I decided to grab something I had just welded becuase it was in the wrong alignment - ouch! - brain fail (tip: wear gloves). Time is now my enemy - engine ready to drop in, but haven't got back into it yet. I'll take some pics of the water system before I drop it back in. Can't recall exact pipe connection detail. I've routed my water lines round the back of the engine and put the thermostat housing on the back of the head (similar layout to FWD). It is certainly a unique setup, but doesn't look too bad.

Ha, just came across your van thread. I admire your persistence! Custom housetruck: lots of work = awesome Rotary Viva: lots of work = awesome Diesel van: lots of work = still a diesel van (but a reliable and warm diesel van) I'll shout you a ferry ticket if you want to come and do one in the other half's Corolla? Into the second winter of no heater - it is a serious visibility, safety and comfort issue! They are just such a crap job to change - you would think engineers would be more practical and say, "hmmmm one day that will fail so lets make it easy to remove and replace" - but alas no.