slacker.cam

Yeah it does. The dies it comes with do 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 4.75mm tube with either single or double flares.

I have one of these. It's crazy easy to use and makes awesome flares. So long as you cut the tube perpendicular you can't go wrong. Highly reccomended if you prescribe to the 'buy only good quality tools' mantra.

I've got a really nice flaring kit. You're welcome to come and use it if things don't work out above. You pretty much can't get it wrong. I'm in Te Atatu.

Did you start condoning this philosophy before or after you tried to grind your arm off with a guardless grinder? Trolololol.

You could have an exhaust teed into the feed line. Just a ball valve of something would be sweet I imagine.

ANNNNNDDDDDDDDD that's me done.

While this whole project is super impressive, the most amazing part for me is that you drew that shiz in PAINT?!?! Wow. #1 gets my vote.

I'm going to throw my 2c in here for getting a microsquirt. It'll run your engine just fine with either dizzy or you can make some small mods to run wasted spark. Two injector outputs so you can run batch fire injection. Old Links can piss right off in my books. They are super primitive by todays standards. A good example is dwell settings. They literally only have two options - short dwell or long dwell. Even with megasquirt you have configurable dwell for battery voltage compensation, etc. Cold starting seems to be a joke with early Links too.

DB9 connectors and the likes are totally not suited for automotive use. I have no idea why the MS guys thought that was a good idea all those years ago. I guess just becuase they're cheap. If you have a nice hot iron and make sure you get the wire engaged all the way into the solder cup then you can do an OK job. Make sure you tin the end of the wire first, then partially fill the cup on the connector and with the iron still on the cup slide the wire into place. Add some more solder to top up the cup and then remove the heat. 90% of MS users will get this wrong and will end up with cracked or dry joints once it sees automotive vibration. Interestingly the aerospace industry uses DB connectors everywhere but I think the pins are crimped and then inserted into the connector which is a totally different ballgame. Those AMPSeal plugs on MS3 Pro are awesome though.

I was thinking about keeping water out of the loom rather than keeping water out of the connector. Sources for connectors: Many people on here including myself have dealt with diyautotune before. They're a good company, stuff always shows up and good customer service. For weatherpacks they have two big kits available both of which are great value, a big 755 piece kit, and a smaller 460 piece kit. Note that these are total item count - not number of connector assemblies. You'll also need a crimper (don't even bother trying to do it with pliers/whatever other ghetto way you can think of). DTM kits are available too. You can either get one from Motorsport Electronics (MSEL) here in Auckland, link here. MSEL are hugely experienced and are pretty much the go-to people for high end looms in NZ. You can also get DTM kits from the US like here for example. When you include shipping the MSEL kit probably isn't much more expensive. You'll have to do some hunting around for a suitable crimper. DTM or weatherpack connectors will sort you out for the large majority of your inline connections. Take your pick on what type is best for your budget and application. For higher current work you'll need to go to something else. Maybe the DT series. If you want to spend lots of money on bulkhead connectors then have a search for Autosport connectors. For things like injectors, temp sensors and others that don't have flying leads you'll need to track down some new connectors. MSEL once again has most of the common types, or you could try NZEFI.

Did Richard @ MSEL do your loom George? It looks amazing. I so badly want to buy some Motec gear but I just can't bring myself to spend half the value of my entire car on a dash.

For what it's worth DTM connectors are 200 times better than Weatherpacks. Weatherpacks can handle more current (can't remember how much, maybe 18A vs 11A or something) but they're also way bigger and a pain to remove pins from when need be. For general plugs DTMs are the way to go. You need a special crimper but there are low cost OK ones available. You also can't heatshrink onto the back of a weatherpack which is required for waterproofing and/or strain relief. For high current work (main power feeds) you can swap to larger DT connectors. While I'm no expert I spent 4 years building mil spec (or high end motorsport spec if you want to keep Dave happy) looms for our FSAE cars. Happy to answer any questions if anyone has anything specific they want answered.

Yeah apparently you can't delete posts these days so I had to write something. I didn't want to leave my woffle up there and consufuse the situation though. I had a yarn to Ned about this the other day. If I were you I'd bin the circuit you've built and just make the older microcontroller version. Ned can program a micro no worries. Having said that I'm 99% sure that puting in a buffer transistor to up the input signal voltage will work with your current design. Having a tach that works shouldn't be this hard! Haha.

I have nothing to add here. Thought I had some advice for your tach circuit but I'm wrong.

205 50 15 is the size that they run in the E30 series so you might be able to get a decent deal for R888s somehow. If you can't get slicks hot just add more scrub. Slicks are (generally) always going to give you better times than a semi.

Ok I see what you mean now. Well you'll just need wheels with less offset to account for the skinny diff. As for if they'll be the same, you put all the mounts in the same place as referenced from the centre of the diff. The overall width of the diff doesn't have any effect on the mounts. You'll need an old diff housing to cut all the mounts off though. Have you got a plan for that yet? There are some guys making their own mounts which is always on option but if you can find a S series diff for $50 then it's hardly worth it. You're more than welcome to come and have a look at one of my cars. If you feel like crawling under a car then I have 3 at my place that will suffice (Te Atatu), if you want to borrow that ae85 diff then that's at my parents place in Red Beach. I'd 100% say you need to build some form of jig though as it's not only the postions of the mounts, you also need to get the angles of the swaybar mounts and whatnot correct.

Infact here are some photos if you want some inspiration:

That width seems fairly perfect to me. Isn't standard 1460 or something? I have a bunch of ae85/6 and hilux diffs already converted in the shed if you want to come and have a look or borrow one or something. I have an ae85 diff sitting there that would be perfect for making a jig from. I even had a jig a few years back but it got binned accidentally.

I've done the piano wire and two random bits of wood for handles technique twice before if you want a hand. Just use a craft knife to make a little hole and then slip the wire through. I wen to my local hobby store for piano wire but there may be better places.

I'll have to have a look for you. It's been a year since I last looked at the carbs closely. There's quite a few threads about that topic on club4ag from a few years back when carbs were big on 4ags that might be of help for you. I'm not sure what sort of motor you're running but beware that this is a 200hp+ motor so it might not be super relevant if your motor is stock(ish). Totally keen for dual sprints. We'll see how the next few weeks of prep go. It would be fitting given that I destroyed the last motor at bike summit two years ago haha.

I'll just leave these here. HUGE thanks to Rookie Dave for his help all weekend! And a big thanks for Mr Fels and Neddles for coming and lending a much needed hand too. Watch this space.

I like how KPR does it: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21725-kprs-kp60/page__st__40#entry813545

I thought my point was pretty clear. You want to learn about engines. 1) read a book. 2) find an engine builder who's willing to educate you. 3) ask us about specifics.

Most of this stuff is hard to learn. You need to read some books and yarn to people in the industry. A lot of what you'll read is related to old american motors. Modern (if you could call a 7k that) Jappa motors can get away with tighter clearances and generally come out of the factory in a more 'blueprinted' (i hate that term) state. Find some threads where others document their 7k builds and see what parts and techniques they have used to get an idea of common practices for your specific motor. We can help you with specifics but the knowledgeable people here on OS have been reading, learning and experimenting for years - the knowledge can't be passed on quickly. Everything in a motor is interrelated which makes life tough. You want to increase your clearances because it's a race motor? Cool, but make sure you increase oil delivery too. etc etc etc. Start with the basics so you don't come across as an idiot. Find someone you can trust to do the work on your motor and build up a rapport with them. Ask lots of questions as to why they're suggesting x, y or z. Don't just waltz in somewhere and be like 'hey you, make my motor beat 4ages' because you're not going to get anywhere.

Diagram drawings from gasket manufacturers like ACL are either super good or super rubbish. If the image on the website comes from the source file that was used to make the dies then it's great. I presume that they probably aren't though so this is a stupid post. If you want to check how (in)accurate your printer is draw up a 100x100 square with a 10mm grid and then measure it up with your calipers. I used to print sub-mm accuracte circuit board designs with a standard laser printer by doing that and then scaling to suit. That technique will be more than good enough for any flanges etc.