phatt20

3.9 is the lowest ratio i know of, reasonably hard to get. i put one in my 97 hiace to drop highway revs, was originally a 4.1 made a big difference in roadnoise/fuel economy.

i agree with most of this, def give ita stab with something sharp, however, stab lightly if you want to sell it, hard if its a project, buy a cheap sansblaster it will remove the rust in the pitted bits that most rotary devices wont .

re; 'lag' have you adjusted rear brakes? will be a spare lug on your inlet manifold for vacuum, usually a small nut you can remove and screw in a booster fitting? iv yet to see one that hasnt.

yes starlets do come with non boosted brakes, iv owned two that did (out of 53 starlets iv owned mind you lol) just converted a customers starlet wagon from non boosted to boosted , factory starlet booster fits, bit of dicking around with pushrod length, the one that pokes out from the booster to back of master cyl is a little long/may of been incorrectly sdjusted in the past. works mint now and made a big difference. non boosted was shocking.

that would be the go. you can test the leads with an ohm meter but for the cost of them i usually just replace them. sorta sounds like its dropping a cyl or two maybe? so going thru all the consumables will be a very good start. perhaps drain the carb too, there is a nut on the front of the carb bowl, take it out and flush some fuel thru .

do it hot, your telling me when its doing it but not what sort of miss/judder it is, is it dropping a cylinder,or two? does it shake like fuck or is it just a wee miss sorta thing? the beauty of these things is its so cheap to go right thru and do a set of points/plugs/leads/timing/air and fuel filters/set tappets etc. then you have eliminated all the cheap bits, has it done it ever since you owned it or is it a recent issue?

8 and 10 thou and it will be happy. what sort of judder/rough running is it doing? these things are brutally simple to work on ,but just as easy to fuck up cos there is stuff to adjust, and when there is stuff to adjust people will do it.

what bout those little gizmo ones? they are fairly small, not much bigger than a pen. i bought one for the same reasons, just havnt got around to fitting it yet so not sure what it will be like to adjust etc.

depends on the carbs, the cbr900 ones were brand spankers and they leaked with the factory pump, and a facet. i ended up using a factory motorbike electric inline one and it worked mint.

plenty big enuf, i had 38mm cbr900 carbs on a 5k , could go as small as 28mm on a 1300 without restricting it . trouble with going too big on the carb size is making the manifold taper/bend/flow well from 40 odd mm down to the much smaller port dia (on k motors anyway) ya dont want to ream the ports out too much to tey match them as velocity/low end will suffer.

spool do an off the shelf h/beam rod with arp bolts for these. proly wouldnt be silly if you are goin to try revving it.

bike carbs to a lesser extent are like this too, being a cv type carb also, (except FCRs ). would still go / run better than SUs tho. especially if an angry cam comes into the equation. apparently dellortos atomise the fuel better, but have used them and webers and havnt noticed too mush difference, altho maybe weber parts are easier to get?

the trouble is there is plenty of different ways to skin the proverbial cat, everyone does their set up different so there is no set formula as such, its not like doing up an rb/sr/ca nissan where you can just buy a whole shopping list of chinese bolt on 'fully drift spec' turbo 'upgrade' bits. everything is custom and everones opinion on what works best is quite different. boost+k on club k has a pretty good thread on his ke70 wag , did have a 4k turbo, now has an sr20.

j pipe will work, tdo5 is too big, tdo4 off a gsr works well, or a t25 off a ca18 or similar. surgetank/efi pump/malpassi carb turbo reg for a serious setup. boost retard diaphragm on the dizzy for retardation under boost.

are you a member of club k? do a search there you will proly find everything you need to know. you wanting to do blow thru/suckthru carb? injected? iv done a few of them (carb turbo) if you have any questions.

ahh yeah i didnt factor in the side linkages, will certainly make it a bit tighter, mine was a top loading shifter.

i have one of these g52s behind a 7k in a burnout/paddock car starlet, has had a lot of abuse and no issues. altho a light car with small motor proly helps there. surely the fact these boxes do a million km in well abused hiace company vans is a testament to their inherent durability? didnt have to attack the tunnel at all either believe it or not, and starlets are pretty small in that department.

From the question I'd guess he's talking about swapping the diff heads between diff housings. In which case, you'd need U code diff head into U code housing etc? indeed, but he asked if ke20 and 30 diff heads will fit straight in to his ke70 housing, which they ALL will, as even if they are b code, they still use the same size axles. i saw no need to confuse the issue for him.

i dont think it was misleading? he asked if they would go in, they do. sometimes you have to mix and match models to get the correct ratio for your intended use so the same series diff isnt always the best option.

yep. , only starlets have the smaller axle size. might just have to change the pinion flange, so be careful with regards to preload.

i would be keen on some of these too if you find a supplier, would 175/50/13s do the job for you? thats what im using at the mo.

its not detonating is it? doesnt take much of that to pop a headgasket