phr34kr

Thought this was you. ( I'm Zac's brother) +1 for more slam and fix the front

+1 for gunmetal, would be fucking sweet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt's_linkage Wikipedia suggests they do need to be equal, however it wouldn't be hard to check using a few pieces of steel/wood/whatever and marking where the center point travels on paper.

Got given a pair of these will probably cut the turned down end off and run them at the rear, using my old rear resonators up the front, they are probably far too big of a diameter for the engine but hey they were free

You could possibly try emailing the company that produces them to et a more detailed specifications http://www.snapaction.net/index.htm?include=mx5.inc also these seem to be the same sort of thing but i have not had any personal experience with this brand unlike the others. http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html With the first breakers i was talking about they will automatically reset either straight away (before breaking again) to control the current or they may reset after a set time, it is a while since i have tripped them, although i could test this if you wish. Im afraid i cant give any more help in where to attain them, or if they are even available in the country as the ones i use have all been imported from the USA.

http://www.andymark.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=41 these breakers are really good and fit into fuse holders, but they will rape you with US$80 shipping, if you know someone in the states that could get them then ship them onto you might be a good option especially with the exchange rate. Edit: they are also auto resetting.

Series 1

also keen for details on tripple carb manifold if Cobranz passes on them

I'v used these 120A connectors in a high current situation http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID= ... rm=KEYWORD Not on a car but they have been used on hundreds of competition robots that run 120A breakers and its not uncommon for the current to surge to a couple hundred amps with no ill effects (for the connectors anyway) so i would say they would be more than sufficient for a car.

If your after those plugs ask their called Anderson connectors can get them in varying amperage ratings and everywhere has them, I even saw them at Supercheap today.

Brought some alloys today same size/offset as standard rims but lest rusty chrome and more polish-able

^^^ what he said, spend the money on new slave cylinders etc get it all nice factory spec and drums will be fine for the rear, only advantage of disk breaks is maybe the slightly easier maintenance (changing pads etc) they will be fine for stopping power in a lot of circumstances.

So not much has happened in a while i have taken all of the loom out of the car and now started on the body work. Fiberglass bodies are great for withstanding harsh environments however they are a pain in the ass to paint, its times like these I wish that I could have a steel bodied car, and just splash some paint stripper around/ crack out the orbital sander. I hate sanding and for lolz have to stay hydrated home brew feijoa cider

For a car with a separate body and chassis (in this case a fibreglass body) am I allowed to either weld in or bolt in a radiator/front body support like in this picture( highlighted in red) without having to get a cert. The car originally had a front steel support but is very badly designed and very heavy, i would much prefer to make up a light tube frame design if i could get away without a cert. Cheers.

I have 3 sets of doors and one spare quarter light and frame (however i can't remember what side) so i'm sure we could sort something out, . for the bumpers i have one set in good enough condition to be presentable after a quick polish, although I did consider running with black bumpers before i had my decent set. For lowering there are several options, adjustable platform coil-overs are what a lot of the guys in the UK use, or you can do some swapping around of the lower wishbones (never seen this done but there is a write up on the net somewhere about it, basically involves swapping parts from left-right and upside down) to drop it a little in the front, the way i have seen in person is to make up spacer plates that space the shock mount lower on the bottom wishbone and to take the upper wishbone bracket that bolts to the uprights, and bolt the bottom 2 bolts in the top 2 holes and create new top mounting holes for the bracket - this will get the tyre right up in the guard. For the rear, either shorter shocks and springs or get the welder out and lower the shock mounting position on the diff, be careful though as if you go quite low in the rear you may need to make a plate up that bolts to the diff and has a lower set of mounting holes for the watts linkage, not too hard to do but just something to be mindful of. -oh, where are you located?

Okay cheers will have a play, hopefully its an easy fix.

Have re checked engine, it is in fact a 4g63 -2L. He also says that the battery hasn't been disconnected for quite some time and was behaving fine in the interim. However it may of been disconnected at the workshop when the distributor was replaced, before replacement of the distributor it wouldn't start and now it just idles badly and stalls.

ill get him to re check what engine it is, From what i have heard it just broke down on the side of the road one day while driving along, he took it to a mechanic and got told that he needed a replacement distributor which he has shelled out $400 for.

Hi, my mate has a 1994 mitsubishi chariot mx which is having some issues, it refuses to idle when he first starts it up and then will randomly stall. I should also mention the idle is low and erratic, does this sound like at TPS issue? and if so what would be the best course of action, are they fixable or do you need to replace them? Cheers, Tim.

Very cool and at least I can say the supercharger still ended up in something 6 cylinder and fibreglass

If you are considering this to get another overdrive gear for economy (going by your other thread) I think you will be quite disappointed the 6 speed's 5th gear is a 1:1 ratio, like a conventional 5 speed's 4th gear, here are the ratios; IS200 ratios(according to Google): Gearing 1st - 3.106 2nd - 2.175 3rd - 1.585 4th - 1.223 5th - 1.000 6th - 0.869 W57 (according to google): 1st - 3.285 2nd - 1.894 3rd - 1.275 4th - 1.000 5th - 0.861

This seems very likely as the engine would in reality be doing 6k RPM witch seems reasonable for a redline.

Seems to include the turbo. I think the auction was stating his car sold less the turbo set up hence why its for sale.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Antiques-collectables/Food-drink/Coke/auction-346062863.htm Win?

Yea he has stroked the essex to 3.8 ltr and has it running in a Reliant Scimitar, I have lost his number but will try and find his email and pm you that, im not certain of what he used but I belive he did mention chev rods and jb pistons, he built his with quite a high CR though.