Simon

My 1uz is all solid mounted including gearbox. No problems at all, I thought it was going to terrible but you wouldn't even know. 1uzs are a smooth motor though and RWD config may help. If you are going to drive it mostly on the road you'll want to rubber mount it. https://www.mountshop.co.nz/

Put it all back together: Took it to the track: Looking forward to tracking it some more. Went well, no major problems except I can't stop it. Need to do entire brake system (still has drums on rear) when I do the diff. Will also go rear coilovers when I do that so I can go lower. It's not low enough. Probably none of that will happen for a while though. I'll just keep drifting it till I run out of T series axles to snap.

Remade the exhaust out of crap that I had lying around as it was too low before. Will re do this eventually when I have time / money to buy pipe (didn't have enough to take twin pipes to rear lol) Tucked right up:

Modified a ST20soemthing celica radiator to fit 1uz size pipes. Primed it: Painted it in my driveway. I used PPG Autothane Commercial Vehicle 2k and borrowed equipment. Came out better than expected which is sweet!

Did rear guards:

This happened because I used the wrong bearing with the larger clutch. Peeled the front off the case. I had a spare new one so I made a press fit extension. A video (wet road). The metallic noise is the end of the gearbox steel uj cover thing rubbing. Fixed by bending it back.

Hey guys, Had my last exam for the year today so now have some guilt free internet time. Thought I should put this thread to bed. I can't remember much of what I was thinking at the time so you'll just have to put up with pictures haha. Err, This wasn't fun. So I did this: It still is a bit close. Next time in other car I'll just make the whole manifold. This is how you do fuel injection conversions. Don't do complicated / expensive surge tanks and lines unless it's a wicked sick race car.

Don't go Hilux. Way too heavy and super overkill. As previously said go F series. Buy a cheap estima one, shorten it and put discs on it while you are there (S13 is cheap, prolly even find DXF files for brackets somewhere). This gives you access to Altezza LSDs. If you are real mongrel just shorten the diff housing at home and pay to have the axles shortened and resplined appropriately. On the strength of AE86 (T series) diffs: The other weekend I ran one behind a my 1uz and even did some drop flag drag racing. Didn't blow it up and managed to beat a turbo S15. It's always the axles that go first and I'm sure I could snap them if I tried. Don't do that though, go F series.

My bad. On the exhaust. I can draw something up if you have the measurements.

Yeap bolt holes are same. 20v onto 16 valve you need to modify the two holes either end.

Lol this. Only reason I know about it is cos my old man just finished building an electric truck, which needs them.

eg

Is this RE: me? You have a plug so you can do a motor swap as fast as possible with only a couple of plugs running the whole engine bay. The plugs I'm talking about are like 12 pin and above. They are designed so the plug can be connected and disconnected heaps and heaps (like in motorsport) yet still stand up to the rough handling without pins falling out.

Often with those top end plugs, the pins are a once only thing. Probably why they are only used once. You crimp the pin to the wire, then push the pin into the plug, and once you have done that you can't get the pins out. They are designed this way so you never have problems.

Haha there is nothing wrong with these, they are very good. My old man would have used hundreds of thousands of them. You have to know how to use them and have the right stuff (which no one does). Quality ones in the right size with the right crimping tool crimped in the right place. If you don't do that they will fall off and thus they have a bad rep. I cringe at people soldering wires in cars. Probably the hardest way possible to do the job lol Those plugs are awesome, but totally not worth it unless it's under the bonnet / car and or in the engine harness.

$1200 US ex China, not the best option for some things but definitely better if you have a small space, low car and run a Toyota that only ever needs oil changes and tyres Control box on the left has hydraulic power pack in it, you need to run lines in pipes under concrete.

3 speed N30 or N31 From Early Corona (mid 70s RT100/110) and Crown (MS/RS80/95)

Am keen for a windscreen for one of these if you see one in your travels

Make sure you have power to the air flow meter. IIRC there is a 12v and a 5V input and if one is missing you will get the fault.

Did you grab that off google lol? I was looking at it for a while and was like damn, I'm sure I've seen this picture before. "Hey I used to have one of those Baxter australia boxes to lie on." "Hey that guy has the same tools as me." "Hey that's my motor."

The last option by far. http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3209

Edit: Nevermind. You should find someone with a mill. I'll do it but I'm in North Island.

Best answer to 21 questions. 15mm lower?

Woow, awesome!

Actually, that looks like you can't just fire a PWM at it.. Ned, whip us up some synchronous code to drive this lol