xsspeed

wats or ssr FM

Lol kind of, these pistons have a lower compression height as they're intended for a rb28 stroker with std length rods however by using them I can double the increase needed for extra rod length as a result of destroking (+2mm becomes +4mm) and get a fractionally better rod ratio Assuming it all works of course

Nah I'm doing some custom china spec rods, got my pistons sussed (I hope) with some hks ones intended for rb26 (well rb28), I might need to get a little reshaping done to them to account for rb25det head difference but we'll see. Iirc @sheepers got pistons for his M series I briefly looked but didn't get past the starting points of wiseco or carillo

25/26 rods are the same, 20 has a smaller big end (48mm rather than 51mm), the crank mains are the same between them I am surprised they don't have an rb20 design tbh as they probably make the spool rb20 rods lol It seems the notches are more or less the same (just on a smaller dia big end) between rb20 and rb25 except for the small notch/relief on the left side of the bottom piece, it's more significant on the rb20 than on rb26 (which is barely perceptable) I wonder if it's even needed as the bearings themselves don't have a tang there

These guys So I can get ok measurements with vernier but not perfect. Kind of wondering how perfect it needs to be so long as it seats the notches in the bearings

So im most of the way there on ordering custom rods with max pee ding. They don't seem to keep the rb20 big end on file (weird) so I'm trying to find out tang size and position in big ends, can try measure but they're pretty small so not super sure on being accurate, would be easier/more accurate to find the specs somehow, any ideas from the brains trust?

Would be not bad actually, seeing it's primary ingredient is waikato draught and that's akin to rust converter

Link to bathwater...for a friend

fuck yeah, in true sheepers fashion just gettin shit done, please bottle some eau du sheepers bathwater and sell online So will you underseal the expoxy then put colour on top of underseal, is that what you said? not just leave black?

Fingers crossed for ya. I dunno how you manage it mate, with kids my car progress is pretty limited to buying shit on yahoo auctions and opening the mail and then installing it in the car boot

real clean, sweet wheel and tyre combo too, nice square chonk

Is anyone using HP tuners on anything modernish?

My aunt had a c4 back in the 90s, pplate was CUL8R or a variant of that spelling, i remember feeling gangster af being driven around in it at like age 9 lol. She replaced it with a 928 which wasn't as hood spec lol /do it @Snoozin

Agree, to clarify my musings were for my own application /late night DMs with romandayf, not with awd in mind

Probably wouldn't bother with 2arfxe for turbo, sorry I've been musing for na applications only

A touch over 1k is what I've been quoted by a few wreckers, that's for a 2arfxe engine

2ars aplenty here, he's working on some further cams for aftermarket ecu again, the last lot he got 270hp atw with cams and intake

Not worth looking at 2ar? pretty sure ive read they can fit to E series 2wd boxes, i guess in either case its the transfer case that will be the risk of fouling with block?

That aren't generated in ms paint

Also rotarily ignorant and I was gunna ask same thing, is that a factory 20b thing? (im sure ive seen other 3+ rotors with slimmer/same sized plates but no idea if those are factory plates or specifically built)

welcome aboard/giz p10

Trying to bend my head around what's happening to the gas, is it that with lower duration cams you're getting fast squirts of gas and that has more momentum than longer lower velocity durations

Thanks guys even from this am feeling heaps more informed and it's given me a few more rabbit holes to go down

Cheers, had been meaning to look at holset so thanks for link rookiedave Are you saying that cos of kind of knowing the turbo geometry needed something consistent will more or less perform same way Can you explain this like I'm 5? Lol. This 'putting the components together harmoniously' type advice is good oil

That one is a "RB24" (redtop rb20 with rb26 crank and 80mm pistons, actual capacity 2.22l) and on e85