HighLUX

Noticed when it was back on the ground that the steering lock was almost non existent, since I installed the drop spindles about 8 years ago it has been up on axle stands or just pushed forward or backwards into the shed so never noticed it til now. Had a quick look underneath to see what was going on and the top bolt on the brake caliper was hitting the top arm preventing full lock so was slightly confused for a bit considering the spindles were supposed to be a bolt on jobbie but found the details of the shop I purchased them from and flicked off a message asking what was up. Turns out you need to fit 90s hilux brake calipers as they dont have the long ugly bolt bit that fouls the top arm. Ripoff wreckers on trademe wanted $450 for a pair of calipers! but luckily theres a crashed lux at PaP at the moment so went and grabbed those ones for $80 with brand new pads in them. Factory calipers with fouling lump as modeled by another 80s hilux at Pap 90s Sr5 calipers with less fouly design

Back on the ground today and yeah the boat anchor does a perfect job of making it the right amount of low Got one of the bucket seats mounted too but forgot to take a photo of that

Yeah wishful thinking with the EFI fuel tank, no way its going to fit. Too long for the chassis and too tall to fit under the wellside. Could space it down but then it will hang lower then the chassis rail and the thin steel holding lots of flammable juice is not the first thing I want to hit the ground Back to using the factory tank with an external pump, not the best for fuel surge but if I keep it above 1/4 tank then it wont be an issue. Fizzed the exhaust together

Got fuel lines in this morning just need to get a couple of longer brackets from pickapart for holding them to the floor. Good ol Toyota has studs in the right place for fuel lines to suit diesel or petrol so was easy once I figured out how to shoehorn them around the driveshaft and gearbag xmember. Got the wellside off and went to put in EFI tank for a mockup on how things were going to fit. Balls The EFI tank is slightly longer so doesn't slot into the brackets on the chassis, also its bigger/a different shape on top which hopefully wont be an issue as theres plenty of gap under the wellside but yeah I gave up for the day after that because wasnt in the mood for making a new back bracket which should mean the EFI tank can fit but thats a problem for another day

Turns out the had also snapped the wires to the aircon pump instead of unplugging it so now iv got cold air again for summer which will be nice

So yeah the problem came back and have had a good chance to look at it. Started by testing the resistance of the cam and crank angle sensor. Cam was sweet but the crank was all over the show hmmm it must be stuffed so started taking the alternator off to get to it. Turns out the auto sparky who replaced the alternator was a massive dick fingerer. Alternator was loose on the main swing bolt and they had snapped the hidden lower mount bolt with the belt tension pulling the alternator in and on an angle slightly. This had squished the wires to the crank sensor and chewed thru one completely with it still sometimes completing the circuit thru the alternator body. Guess the alternator moving slightly sometimes as it loaded up or unloaded would make the circuit or kill it completely which is why it was so intermittent

Derp Heater hoses looked good but forgot the tap so got that in today with some more parts bin heater hose Front half of the exhaust done just need a pair of 2.5in flanges to join it to the back half Gotta get the wellside off next to fit new fuel lines and the EFI tank then its only finding a radiator to fit and get the engine wiring done and I can attempt firing the engine up

Itl be fine its only a forklift motor

A couple of strops and something to anchor one to while you take a 2nd bite so you can get the height on Kato perry I reckon it would work

Heater hoses ticked off the list today. Drivers side was easy with a hose off a 90s hilux going straight on with a slight bit of trimming. Hot water feed from back of the head to the thermostat housing needed shortening down and a longer length of rubber hose added too. All the hard to get to stuff is done and the motor is back on the mounts and bolted in its final position so hopefully it can stay there now while I finish off other bits and pieces. Passengers side was tighter so required shortening down the hardline off the back of the block and a bit of a jigsaw of 2 different hoses with a brass connector that @MaxPower cobbled up on the lathe but the result looks factory which is what im going for. No pics but started on the exhaust too. The factory crown downpipe wasnt going to work it fouled on the torsion bar so cut the manifold flange off it and tacked it to the 3RZ Y pipe which by luck had the same size primaries with the same spacing as the 1G flange then started hacking the aftermarket exhaust from the 3RZ hilux up to make it fit down past the bellhousing while tucking up between the torsion bar and cab floor so the chassis rail will still be the lowest point. It will be a bit of a snake til it gets back past the gearbox x member then there is plenty of room for it to go wherever it like

Think the vac hose from the booster to the manifold was the issue, it was all hard and split on the end of the hose where it slides onto the booster. Cut it a bit shorter and slid it back on then tried the idle re learn again followed by a bit of a drive. Seems to be happy and doing what its supposed to like bumping the idle up when AC turns on etc. Idle seems alot more stable and doesnt fluctuate even slightly like it used to. Would make sense with how the problem has slowly got worse as the hose fell to bits with the fact I dont think the idle was reset by the battery shop or the auto sparkys when the alternator was done so dodgy idle from that and the vacuum leak making it worse/even worse when it was trying to reset the idle Basically I was today old when I learnt that Toyotas with drive by wire freak out when you take the power off the battery.

Nah its all electric gubbins hiding behind a panel

No air leaks as its weirdly intermittent, im thinking the throttle body is doing something funky/loosing its mind

2AZ-FE with electronic throttle body. Been having issues with the idle jumping all over the show while in drive and foot on the brake(sitting in traffic usually) Idle bounces around and it stalls out and the motor dies sometimes. Alternator and battery have been replaced so tried the throttle body idle relearn procedure with no change and it still stalls out while trying the relearn procedure. Throttle body is clean no oil sludge on the throttle plate. Airflow meter has been cleaned and fresh air filter. No engine light coming so it wont throw any codes if I get it plugged into a scan tool? Got me stumped

Fab'd up and fizzed on some mounts today with @MaxPowers help with the flash welding

Jb weld will be fine. Key the plastic and goop it on

So the best of no worlds then?

Uh its been ages but I think they are 90s townace bumpstops that had the angle grinder treatment and stock shocks with a bit of travel left

Anyone able to pickup a fuel tank from out there somewhere and provide cash to the buyer which I will transfer you while I sort out a way to get it up country to Tauranga?

Mounts should be fine they are beefy as

Thats the minimum draglink clearance with the wheels straight it increases once you start turning

More bush mechanic googling says that you can get results from stuffing an inner tube in the tank then inflating it to pop the depression out. Could be a go since its in the corner by the fuel pump hole so I can stuff it in there then use a length of timber to confine it to the dent

Got 99.9% of the snapped bolts out of the fuel tank Wire wheeled it rust killer then black enamel is baking off on it at the moment

Might try this Whats the worst that could happen