Bling

Sweet, will give it a shot. Not sure the engine can get any worse.

I thought that shiz caused more problems potentially than it solved... myth too? I just imagine chucks of dry crusty shit floating around I may be getting a badly neglected engine soon though that will need a clean out. So just seeing what options are out there.

Keen for more info. Also keen to hear about using diesel oils, any downsides?

If it's steel I could probably weld a nut on for ya in Hornby. Vice grips probably a quicker solution though given travel.

It's your car Mr Felixx, I wouldn't worry about all the haters. It's not like you have a fake oil cooler or fake rims on the car. Go nuts I reckon, I have one too that I intend to sit low spec under the dash if I ever get my escort on the road. Purely for interest / lols / cos I can. Good luck working out the best place for the feed.

Missed a bit on the bonnet Good info, just made a list of products from this thread so I know what to jam down inside of the doors.

Yeah, wouldn't do cages / bull bars, but could be about right for bikes etc.

Might be of interest to someone: http://www.chevpac.co.nz/webshop2/catal ... er&ss=&p=2 never used / seen one so can't vouch for it, just posting to share. They have pretty much everything, just spotted the above while looking for another tool.

Looking good Tim, car is coming along nicely. Those concrete piles are just for show, cut those out of the way for extra space

Rangi.... but, can you chop one down and seal the lid back on?

What is adjustable in the rear shocks? Is it height or dampening? Either way I would have thought they'd be handy over non-adjustable ones. As for height, as a general rule (not specific to one car) 1-2" tends to be easiest as you can get aftermarket springs that remain captive with stock shocks. More than that and you have to go to shorter shocks / run into the likes of bump stop clearance problems. The above is only a problem if you want to keep it legal. If you're not worried about that then I guess options differ.

Any idea on suburb?

In a booth with full face respirator I hope!

Have you already tried Super Cheap Auto and Repco with no luck?

Have you priced up all the extra stuff you'll need to put a t series in compared to just bolting in a 5k? I'm guessing a 5k just bolts straight up? Keep same gearbox. Compared to new mounts for engine, gearbox, custom driveshaft (unless there is bolt in option), wiring up on sensors for water temp, tacho etc. Just sounds like a shed load of hassle for no gain. Can you do it all yourself or? If you can't afford to buy a 5k outright I just don't like your chances of finishing the 3t transplant.

If you can weld to a good standard, why not just build your own coilovers? Has been done before, if I wasn't scoffing my lunch i'd have a look. But have a search as it may even be a sticky somewhere on here. Actually it's linked in here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34360

Do lots of reading on http://www.club-k.co.nz that should answer everything. As for mounts though, i'd say you'll have to get some made to suit your situation. How hard it will be will depend on how much homework you do, what you can do yourself and what your budget is. It will have all been done before, you just have to search for projects that match what you're doing and go from there.

Pretty sure I saw one today for ~$60 at Repco. If you have a welder (or know someone that does) you could easily make a tool to suit.

The fork? DO NOT WANT!! All i've ever used to do this is a big hammer, haven't met one yet that could say no. That said, I was using girl hits until a mechanic friend showed me how to hit it properly Even with that repco tool, a big hammer does most of the work.

My money on that. Not saying this is 100% certain the problem however. But I had the exact same problem on disc rear, nothing I did would balance them. Pulled the proportioning valve out (4 or 5 port on firewall on my ae111) took it apart, cleaned the crud out and bang 100% balanced brakes. Been a couple years now and brakes still pretty balanced. There was like a 1/4mm ring of build up just stopping one piston (whatever) moving easily, washed the parts with brake clean and they came up like new. Pain to take apart, but a free repair. Apart from the brake fluid lost to remove / replace the valve.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Just been out to take some pics. Keen to know what A, B and C are. Can be either to the inside or outside, just need to know where they are taken from. Also keen to know the measurements at the jacking points front and rear. Again, can be either to the inside or outside of the points used for the jacks. Lastly the overall width of the sills, at rear doors if possible. Cheers!

Good shit

For $15 I thought you had got a few cans of blue and done the wags the downside to only reading pictures. Bronze looks the business

The white one? Flat stick at work but will try have a hoon past, cheers. If anyone on here can help with measurements that would be awesome though.

I have searched online to no avail. Best I could find was 2 door measurements. I'm not 100% sure if they would be the same or not (if you know, let me know). So i'd like to get some measurements for a 4 door. Basically just want to know if mine is roughly right, or if I need to get work done on it. There is no obvious damage at all, i'm just wanting to be extra sure. Mainly around the rear guard sections. Anyone got one handy that they could throw a tape measure at for me? I will get under the car on the weekend to take some pics so measuring points can be in the same places. Would be good to get a couple examples to work out an 'average'. As the build quality seems a bit lax in areas... Any help would be great