Bling

Do you drain it to 0% often? That won't help it's lifespan as they don't like that. That's if 0% is actually flat anyway. Could also come down to weight of rider and speed / load on the thing. Full nang probably less efficient so drain quicker.

Yeah pretty cheap for the area covered. Fit my budget anyway. I'll try pull finger in the next month or two and install some and report back.

I got 4sqm of this stuff, but on a roll: https://themarket.com/nz/p/20pcs-car-truck-vibration-sound-deadening-mat-2.7mm-butyl-rubber-sound-deadeners/5110-BD-32298?siq=e7bb167e-e77d-46c0-be72-ba2cb416728f&sii=5110BD-32298&mode=io I haven't got around to using it yet, but put a small piece on my hydraulic press beam to see how well it stuck. Seemed to do ok. Certainly won't be the best on the market sticky wise, but it's thick for the price. Going to do it in next few months if you're not in a hurry I can report back if it's good / dogshit. I got it to do floor / kick space areas not roof, and will probably give it a light heat gun action due to installing when it will be cold.

I use this on most things https://hylomar.com/en/universal-blue/ Can't say i've ever used copper coat on bolts like that. Not that say that you shouldn't, I just never have.

Checked junk mail? If not there, just try another email, got mine instantly last time. After I lost it on my PC somewhere...

Sounds like a Wayne question to me @h4nd

Did a cube challenge at tech, then had to pressurise it to some stupidly high pressure. I think that was gas torch welded though, so not really relevant. It wouldn't really give you good practice for car work. Make mock ups of the repairs you need to do, and weld them in the same orientation they'll be on the car. About as good as you can do really to get good at certain welds. Maybe find someone locally with rust fucked car doors and fix them or at least weld in panels to fix them. Welding on flat sheet is good to fine tune the welder to get you a start. But on the car it will still need tuning until you get more welds under your belt. With experience you can adjust how you weld on the fly even if the settings aren't bang on. But when starting you want to settings pretty close to right, which is where the bench welds will help. I would just start with old car panels though, if that is the sort of thing you are fixing. Or start on the most basic repairs first. Even start a repair and post photos in here for comments / abuse / helpful tips

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/listing/4089842805 225/40R14 set of tyres, in case anyone is currently after some. /not mine, could well be someone on here

Sweet, just wanted to double check, nice work chaps.

She's pretty rough out there in the building industry for sure...

Put the tyres with same load rating on each axle so front match and rear match. Sorted. Unless you roll staggered wheels / tyre widths. You only mention load rating as the fail, so that should fix it / them. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__createpdf?pdf=aHR0cHM6Ly92ZWhpY2xlaW5zcGVjdGlvbi5uenRhLmdvdnQubnovcGRmLWhyZWY/aWQ9Mjc1NjMmbmFtZT1UeXJlcywgd2hlZWxzIGFuZCBodWJz Does look like a fail from my view, load rating isn't close enough on the same axle. If the old tyres are pretty low then it's going to handle a bit odd with good tyres on one side and low tread tyres on the other side. So perhaps having both new tyres on one axle is the right idea anyway?

Used to see Dewalt on sites a bit, but eventually it all changed to mostly Makita and Milwaukee. I get the impression it didn't seem to last, rough trades maybe.

Mix and matching oil brands. Google says it's fine, what does OS say. I have a mostly full bottle of 5w-30 fully synthetic oil. Can I top it up to be a full oil change with another same spec 5w-30 fully synthetic oil? Reason being the oil I have no isn't easy to find as it's been replaced / on clearance but not near me. So plan is to buy a 5L bottle and use what I have already and top up with the 5L. Leaving enough for my next change. I imagine it's not really any different to an oil change at a garage where previous brand (and even grade) isn't known. Chur

Brushless for life. I find I use 12v tools more than 18v. 12v ratchet is probably my favourite.

Bet that one handled great lol!

He is only talking about the Hikoki gear that run both voltage batteries. Never tried it myself, pretty sweet that they built the batteries to work both ways. I tend to get Ryobi for most things these days. Mainly garden tools as their range is top notch for the pricing. But still have the odd garage tool too. I'd buy all team red if they didn't cost 2-4x* as much quite often. *unless buying from i-tools, then often in same ballpark as Ryobi.

2" ball is pretty oddball. Parents boat trailer used to have a similar coupling type. Was always a bit odd feeling but the trailer never fell off.

They doing it for you then? If not, easy enough to sort here https://www.milwaukeetool.co.nz/redemptions/ Always more to buy... you're on the slippery slope, welcome.

Oh yeah, probably can redeem a free battery via redemption with that kit, the seller give you the info?

Would need to venture to Tool Shed for that carry on. /doesn't look like they have combos in stock though Circ saw is sweet, I only have 12v saw, but it sure makes life easier when paired with a decent capacity battery.

You wanting just a drill or to replace the dugga aswell? I wonder if you can buy adaptors for say Milwaukee battery to Metabo. Could just grab a drill kit then and run the other Metabo gear off the new batteries. These guys are parallel importers, but I tend to buy half my gear from them because overpriced via official importer / channel. https://www.i-tools.co.nz/collections/milwaukee-m18/products/milwaukee-2804-20-m18-fuel-12-brushless-hammer-drill-kit I have that drill, but I grabbed it as a skin as already have some gear. Goes pretty well. Purchased it as I needed to add some 100mm holes to a metal cabinet + MDF, no worries doing that. Then perhaps one of these? I haven't gone deep, could be better / cheaper options. Assuming your gear is 18V too. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004132882705.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.3fc35ef1VwSimq&algo_pvid=864618c4-bb05-4619-a739-020689763859&algo_exp_id=864618c4-bb05-4619-a739-020689763859-10&pdp_npi=3%40dis!NZD!44.43!28.87!!!!!%40211bf3f716808541855892097d06c0!12000028141691971!sea!NZ!116624700&curPageLogUid=y1ov6nT4H4UJ

I don't want to say, it still grinds my gears.

Ah cool, was a few years ago now that I was told it by inspector. Knowing me I probably would have googled it lol. New rule method is good. Does seem a bit pointless to have just belts installed though I guess. Unless installed for carting long blocks lol.

Belts need to be gone too, but they may be attached to seats anyway so no biggie. Just FYI.

What about one of those hydraulic hose jokers? Might have access to a good catalogue of that sort of thing for industry use.