Bling

Hopefully a nice easy one. Current top hats have long bolts. If I want to space the strut down, is it acceptable to just have a ring of 10mm aluminum machined with the top hat bolts passing through? Size would match the size of camber plate that currently contacts car body, with the center hole matching the factory hole. Seems legit to me, but I think my certifier will cry if he sees me again before I want to book it in. (lots of complications). Down to a few things before cert and think the car is too low to pass, this is just a relatively easy way around it it needed. TIA

Owner cylinders can still work out ok depending on gas usage / type. I get mine tested every 5 years for around $100 with a fill of CO2. At my current usage rate that will last till next test. Might have to read back a few pages, but I think the Bunnings deal is pretty sweet. BOC took the piss on pricing for years so i'd personally never use them. Their pricing is why I purchased a cylinder to start with, no regerts.

Totally man, wee man is a bit small to appreciate such things at moment though. Will try for future a burger meat to talk shit though. Ignoring the fact I haven't fixed the OS whip... or got the other whip ready for cert still, shits depressing lol.

Both will be good dudes. I only have first hand experience with Warrick though, and it was top of the notch. Bort put me on to him, no regerts. You North Island dwebs should shhh, half the CHCH crew will know of Warricks work. What do you need doing?

Mine are like the second set, my certifier seemed happy enough. Worth checking with yours. My steering arm only has the locating rings around the bolts (IIRC), so that spacer copied that design. Test the height with washers, too thick and you may find the arm hitting the brake rotors. I found that anyway. I do have much larger rotors than factory though.

Won't make this one, but i'll tag this guy in case he hasn't seen it @yetchh

Decent muffler plus resonator, headers were probably fine factory so are fine now. It's usually turd mods to exhaust that case the problem.

Another thing worth noting, is that if you replace the current brake pedal with another, it will need a cert. Changing the pedal box from auto to manual parts triggers this requirement (brake pedal specifically). This is technically of course, lots of auto to manual swaps running around which need cert but will likely not be picked up. Just something worth knowing before carrying on. Easy answer is to just live the easy life with the auto, they aren't that bad.

I know with Toyota there are multiple options usually and some are better suited than others, situation / usage dependant. More info will lead to the best answers. Unless there is literally only one manual gearbag that will work in a sigma. I'd be surprised though. Could be weak gearbags worth avoiding, shit ratios, fitment issues and that sort of thing.

Perhaps post what the specs are now and what you are trying to achieve.

Wearing my tin foil hat solves that problem.

I'm still going to scoff at the 95% fail rate claimed. I just haven't seen any real evidence the fail rate for WOF's is 95%. And if you happen to find a place that fails your car 95% of the time, grow a Brian and go elsewhere. Or scrap the car as it's obviously due.

Any interest from anyone in one of these? https://www.gatx.com.tw/en-us/product/GS-204M Had it in the drawer a few years new unused, 1.4mm nozzle. Got it from panel shop (Resene automotive) as a decent all rounder sort of gun. Seems like a decent unit for the money ($160 IIRC). Seems a shame to not use it, but resale also might be nothing. The nozzle looks to be the same as many others and specs say it suits other sizes.

There are enough shit cars on the road failing that you don't have to "purposely" take in a non-compliant car. But hey, if that's what you enjoy doing then who am I to judge. My pass rate would have to be north of 80% averaged over many cars varying from three to 40 years old. I must just be lucky to get a pass 16 times more often than the average person. It's as if you think an inspector will overlook legitimate problems with a vehicle if you install a faulty bulb...

You fail 95% of your WOF checks do you? Might I suggest you aren't using a smart WOF place, but one that enjoys wasting their own time and yours.

Was actually there a couple / few months back kicking tyres for someone on here. Post lockdown BS means my time is even more limited. If no one sorts you out flick me a PM in a few weeks and i'll see what I can do. That mad man Chris ran past PaP a million times recently and is pretty local, maybe hit him up and see if he's able.

I'm too busy to pop and grab the bits sorry, don't even diddle my own car currently. Premium is just fancier cars, you still pick the parts yourself the prices are just different (might not all be different) to the normal yard cars. Fenced off in CHCH.

Who said there was? I didn't read the whole page on their site, just recommended them for other work I had done.

Replacing because it's knackered? If so, maybe give these guys / girls a call, I had them do some work (not booster) and it was well priced and top notch work. https://www.toresleeve.co.nz/Boosters.html

M10 sounds a bit light?

Can't see it ending well, if it worked well it would be the norm. Being flat and with sharp edges / corners, I can see it scratching the crap out of the paintwork. Maybe if the panel was glass flat with no curves it could work, but I doubt many areas will be that flat. Try it on someone elses car first.

How much hits? Can't just cut the cover and weld in a raised section above engine? Then just bend the seat springs up a little if they hit it.

I hear he has a brand new chequebook, expense no problem. /get it road legal and build up parts till you have everything needed to do what you want.

Barra

Does a factory one not fit your car?