Bling

NaN Admin delete please, posted in wrong fred.

Good end result

Just don't forget to count the engine on hours, that is the main thing to look for remember. Check the gloveboxes for Barries 3B1 book with all that data recorded.

Yeah obviously engine hours matter. I regret even suggesting now that higher mileage equals higher wear. Thus why lower mileage cars are worth more as a rule. Which was not considered in the post I quoted. It's being nit picked to death. As you were chaps.

I think you'll find the engine has in fact travelled just as far as the rest of the car. Unless it has been replaced. As for the traffic comment, bit pointless since we don't know either cars driving habits over it's life. A service history at least lets you know how well it's been maintained. I wasn't referring to specifically engine wear, but car wear in general.

I don't think you understand how mileage works. Cars that are driven wear down over time. One that has done more miles is likely to be more worn. Thus, one with less wear is worth more money in general. As for picking between, how much is 3k in relation to car cost? I'm assuming they aren't costing much so 3k could be a bit steep. That said, service history if any would sway me given the choice. I'd also be checking if the 2015 got any cool features the 2012 didn't etc. I paid more for a facelift model (not swift) as the changes made, made it a worthwhile extra expense.

Who is going to replace then engine? Would think mechanics would have decent networks for engines. (I only say this as when I had one rebuilt they sourced all sorts of 2nd hand bits for it) A bunch on trademe but to keep it simple you'd probably want to go for one from same chassis. You haven't said it's a hybrid so that should narrow it down a bit. 2az come in many models so as mentioned above should be a few around. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/engines/listing/3722217987?bof=sylVzUUc Getting up there price wise + shipping, but could be same chassis. Bit hard to know with no info though.

Just bookmarked that site funnily enough. Looks like you can pay with CC so not too much risk really. I'd lean towards legit till proven otherwise. Can ship a bit for $10 if using the right company. What are you after?

How I see it: Maybe i'm missing a trick if no one wants to take your money to sort the rears though...

Well I feel like you could get a sleeve welded on the rears the same as front. If Fortune Auto (MRP I assume?) can't get sleeves to fit the rear struts you could potentially (i'm not a certifier, just a spitballer) get sleeves made from the right material and get them welded on appropriately. Then put in the same threaded shocks design wise as front. Should be certifiable in my mind as it's the same thing as front, just a bit more work. Since it's already a coilover type suspension in the rear, might just all bolt in and job done. Just have the top mounting point left to sort out. Not sure if that's a top hat in those cars, but assume it is. Pick spring rates and have the shocks built to suit that. I've had custom parts made to work with my Fortune Auto coilovers. Just have to have local certifier onboard with your plans from the start to save problems later. If going low, with IRS, keeping it within the tolerances of factory camber may be fun?

How much you wanting to spend as well? I'm sure you could coilover the rear as well, but you may need to get the bottom section of the coilover machined up to suit the strut. Rear looks a bit larger diameter? It won't be a cheap option, so you'd have to be happy to bleed money to get it done. The above idea with Autolign would be my first port of call. It's a slippery slope once you go coilovers. Cletus does the certs for a living so will know the best options.

I'd change the hoses so you know they are good, especially if you're doing the other bits anyway, makes sense IMO.

What version of windows is the laptop running? Windows often comes with (or can manually install if not) "Windows Movie Maker" or similar. For basic stuff it's fine, and free.

More of a just here to look at the pics project browser, but I have to ask so I can stop wondering. Timing is all smick yeah and not contributing to the heat issues? Someone may have already asked / I missed you say it is. Sweet build though, so clean!

Yeah wouldn't bring kiddo purely because i'd get nothing done on electrical stuff. I'll fire you a PM when things are less hectic as ken for a catch up.

Yeah sounds complicated. When I was pissing around with mine the whole rod came out and I lost it in the engine bay. Maybe I was lucky nothing went wrong. Think I pushed the brake pedal with no M/C installed, because smart. I thought they did booster too, was trying to remember.

Slap me if i'm telling you to suck eggs etc. But I recall having to get mine adjusted and just needed a tool the measured the depth of the master vs the poke of the booster, just had to match them up. Easy tool to make, or could just use calipers to measure. Brakes can be such a nightmare, hopefully they have done what they are supposed to have and it's something simple. CBC did a good job of other stuff for me.

Oh if you only want Cig weld then yeah 135A rating should cover all car stuff i'd say. I have a BOC welder (180A) and for panel work it's always below half power, well below. You won't want to weld a towbar together, but panel work is really lightweight so will be sweet. The lower the settings go the better the thin jobs will go. Haven't used cig weld to know how low they go. I think mine goes as low as 30A and I fiddle the settings around there and upwards usually.

Check back the last 10 pages or so, quite a few people have purchased MIG's for exactly that usage. Some decent units for fair money these days.

Could be keen at a later Friday, focusing on getting car on road first which might take a couple of months... Pretty sure I can dig a project or two out of the garage to bring along for a tinker. Friday is usually my day off too so I won't even ask you to provide toddler toys and a playground.

Not sure who that is. I don't own it through anyone.

Bunnings gas wasn't a thing when I first started bird shitting on things so I have my own cylinder. Last time it needed a test it was ~$100 including a CO2 fill. Have got bits and pieces from these guys before and they sell cylinders. https://weldplus.co.nz/5kg-co2-ownership-cylinder-filled-s-n/ Mine will probably be due a test again by the time I go through the 6.8KG of gas. Good to have no rental costs though. Bunnings deal could be worth looking into as I think it was better than BOC. Plus BOC can get fucked as they sure seemed to charge a lot when there was no competition in the DIY market.

I mean if it's only going to meet WOF requirements for that short time it's being tested, why even bother getting the WOF? May as well just take your chances and have a polite attitude if pulled up. If you're not driving it to get repairs / work done on it towards cert though you'll be up a creek really. I won't be trailering my car for repairs for cert, will just hope for the best as i'll only be driving it for trips related to that. I get the impression you plan to drive it all over the show, which is where WOF or not you'll come unstuck. 2c

Can also get those with the threaded rod attached so can tighten them into nuts on the deck / remove as not needed. All the same junk on AliEx. Comac should have every option you can dream of too. https://www.comac.co.nz/U/Cargo-Control-Rope-Rings

Ken for a look / bring a snag, car probably won't be ready.