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Bling

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Everything posted by Bling

  1. Checked junk mail? If not there, just try another email, got mine instantly last time. After I lost it on my PC somewhere...
  2. Did a cube challenge at tech, then had to pressurise it to some stupidly high pressure. I think that was gas torch welded though, so not really relevant. It wouldn't really give you good practice for car work. Make mock ups of the repairs you need to do, and weld them in the same orientation they'll be on the car. About as good as you can do really to get good at certain welds. Maybe find someone locally with rust fucked car doors and fix them or at least weld in panels to fix them. Welding on flat sheet is good to fine tune the welder to get you a start. But on the car it will still need tuning until you get more welds under your belt. With experience you can adjust how you weld on the fly even if the settings aren't bang on. But when starting you want to settings pretty close to right, which is where the bench welds will help. I would just start with old car panels though, if that is the sort of thing you are fixing. Or start on the most basic repairs first. Even start a repair and post photos in here for comments / abuse / helpful tips
  3. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/listing/4089842805 225/40R14 set of tyres, in case anyone is currently after some. /not mine, could well be someone on here
  4. She's pretty rough out there in the building industry for sure...
  5. Put the tyres with same load rating on each axle so front match and rear match. Sorted. Unless you roll staggered wheels / tyre widths. You only mention load rating as the fail, so that should fix it / them. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__createpdf?pdf=aHR0cHM6Ly92ZWhpY2xlaW5zcGVjdGlvbi5uenRhLmdvdnQubnovcGRmLWhyZWY/aWQ9Mjc1NjMmbmFtZT1UeXJlcywgd2hlZWxzIGFuZCBodWJz Does look like a fail from my view, load rating isn't close enough on the same axle. If the old tyres are pretty low then it's going to handle a bit odd with good tyres on one side and low tread tyres on the other side. So perhaps having both new tyres on one axle is the right idea anyway?
  6. Used to see Dewalt on sites a bit, but eventually it all changed to mostly Makita and Milwaukee. I get the impression it didn't seem to last, rough trades maybe.
  7. Mix and matching oil brands. Google says it's fine, what does OS say. I have a mostly full bottle of 5w-30 fully synthetic oil. Can I top it up to be a full oil change with another same spec 5w-30 fully synthetic oil? Reason being the oil I have no isn't easy to find as it's been replaced / on clearance but not near me. So plan is to buy a 5L bottle and use what I have already and top up with the 5L. Leaving enough for my next change. I imagine it's not really any different to an oil change at a garage where previous brand (and even grade) isn't known. Chur
  8. Brushless for life. I find I use 12v tools more than 18v. 12v ratchet is probably my favourite.
  9. He is only talking about the Hikoki gear that run both voltage batteries. Never tried it myself, pretty sweet that they built the batteries to work both ways. I tend to get Ryobi for most things these days. Mainly garden tools as their range is top notch for the pricing. But still have the odd garage tool too. I'd buy all team red if they didn't cost 2-4x* as much quite often. *unless buying from i-tools, then often in same ballpark as Ryobi.
  10. 2" ball is pretty oddball. Parents boat trailer used to have a similar coupling type. Was always a bit odd feeling but the trailer never fell off.
  11. They doing it for you then? If not, easy enough to sort here https://www.milwaukeetool.co.nz/redemptions/ Always more to buy... you're on the slippery slope, welcome.
  12. Oh yeah, probably can redeem a free battery via redemption with that kit, the seller give you the info?
  13. Would need to venture to Tool Shed for that carry on. /doesn't look like they have combos in stock though Circ saw is sweet, I only have 12v saw, but it sure makes life easier when paired with a decent capacity battery.
  14. You wanting just a drill or to replace the dugga aswell? I wonder if you can buy adaptors for say Milwaukee battery to Metabo. Could just grab a drill kit then and run the other Metabo gear off the new batteries. These guys are parallel importers, but I tend to buy half my gear from them because overpriced via official importer / channel. https://www.i-tools.co.nz/collections/milwaukee-m18/products/milwaukee-2804-20-m18-fuel-12-brushless-hammer-drill-kit I have that drill, but I grabbed it as a skin as already have some gear. Goes pretty well. Purchased it as I needed to add some 100mm holes to a metal cabinet + MDF, no worries doing that. Then perhaps one of these? I haven't gone deep, could be better / cheaper options. Assuming your gear is 18V too. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004132882705.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.3fc35ef1VwSimq&algo_pvid=864618c4-bb05-4619-a739-020689763859&algo_exp_id=864618c4-bb05-4619-a739-020689763859-10&pdp_npi=3%40dis!NZD!44.43!28.87!!!!!%40211bf3f716808541855892097d06c0!12000028141691971!sea!NZ!116624700&curPageLogUid=y1ov6nT4H4UJ
  15. I don't want to say, it still grinds my gears.
  16. Ah cool, was a few years ago now that I was told it by inspector. Knowing me I probably would have googled it lol. New rule method is good. Does seem a bit pointless to have just belts installed though I guess. Unless installed for carting long blocks lol.
  17. Belts need to be gone too, but they may be attached to seats anyway so no biggie. Just FYI.
  18. What about one of those hydraulic hose jokers? Might have access to a good catalogue of that sort of thing for industry use.
  19. Cheers, just a couple before the weather turned to shit. Yeah I'm all for super low cars. But I spent many days in the garage looking at what was needed to go lower than it is. There is enough allowance in the coilovers to go much lower. That is the easy bit. I even purchased new longer bodied shock inserts as it was too low. One of those learn as you go things. Probably could go 50mm+ lower in it, more with the shorter shocks. But then everything else becomes a problem if you want to actually drive it. That's ignoring the geometry side of things that would be in the toilet without spending another bucket of cash on adjustable everything. I'm old, I want something that is relatively comfortable to fang.
  20. Yeah that looks pretty fucking tasty! I wasn't quite ready for the trip, but hopefully we'll have another before the weather turns to shite.
  21. Got this thing down to local garage and it got itself a sticker it hadn't worn in a while. So then it was time to put some rego on it, was going to chuck six months but forgot it's old as fuck now, so 12 months is cheap anyway. So did that, then called up another crowd to organise getting some plates pressed for it. I purchased them off trademe a week after getting the car, really good timing. They were going for dirt cheap so I offered for them to send them to me included in the dirt cheap price, they agreed. The single bashed to buggery plate has been hanging on the wall (it came off a trailer), taunting me for over four years now. Was tempting to go for the Jap plate style, but I ain't got money for that AND a tank of gas these days. Took it for a nice backround trip, the roads are all over the show, but it soaked it all up nicely. Low as possible is nice, but it would have been scraping most of the trip if lower. So a good compromise of low and actually able to drive it at pace over shit rural roads. Quite good being able to hit the sharp corners without slowing and it just sits flat with no roll. Wasn't harsh at all on the undulations in the road either. Overall, very happy with it's ride quality. I'd loved to have had it another 30mm lower, but the compromise needed to achieve that isn't worth it. Plenty around that are MUCH lower than mine, but low isn't everything (cop out lol). I wasn't willing to cut the body / guards to get it lower than it is. Just a short update, but an important one as it's finally back on the road. Will get myself some AA membership going on so i'm not so anxious driving it around. Still needs a carb fettle, likely new jets. So when the weather turns proper shit, i'll whip the carb off and see about sorting that out. Next on the to do list is some deadening and installing the speakers. Will update when I work on the 3D printed mounting hardware for those, but it won't be for a while. Will swap off the Levin badge too for the Corolla "C" badge I have. It's what it had factory, i've just left it on there because lazy. Some pics for proof.
  22. Just go to a different WOF place, if they failed it on that too, investigate it further. It's really the easiest solution IMO. If the car didn't have it from factory, then I don't see how it can be expected to have one installed now. If you can't see evidence that it has been removed, and it has been passing WOF checks it's whole time on the road... My gut says aftermarket stuff will not be allowed without cert. OEM is at least known quality, aftermarket can be a shit show, thus needs to be checked / approved / certed. I looked up brake proportioning valve on aliexpress for the lol's, this was on the first page. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989771506.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.59cca9a8j5UTNa&algo_pvid=9cecc3d3-72a9-4379-b52f-6f2c04a3afa0&algo_exp_id=9cecc3d3-72a9-4379-b52f-6f2c04a3afa0-10&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"66792891068"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!NZD!37.96!37.96!!!!!%40211bd4cd16795348344407871d0745!66792891068!sea!NZ!116624700&curPageLogUid=31RAH62HUUlj i'm not saying buying it for a second, just thought it was funny. As you were.
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