flyingbrick

Iv seen that heaps and always assumed it was for correct headlight beam spread

Rack spacers sound real easy

Get a dti off Ali.

Racking my brain trying to remember which vehicle I had with the external drive units.. I'm sure it was my Nissan Safari. Had motors that protruded into the cabin and just fitted over the shaft that would otherwise take a crank handle. I always looked at them and thought they'd be ideal for a conversion.

Keen to see the hq!

Just trying to avoid this horrible shape

Thanks man. Have a much better idea now. Plate will go under rear steering arm mount (I'll mill 10mm off the underside of its boss so it can pass through) My current adaptor plate drawing is a little excessive- would you be happy if I ditched the lower adaptor bolt completely and used the steering arm bolt? So the plate would pass under steering arm.

Why don't ya make a nice less bulky arm rest so there's no seat there at all.

Haha, nicely spotted. I am (I think) going to use the other calipers just out of the picture. The red caliper just photographs better than the black bracket on the others

Hi Clint! So I have done the pcd on my new discs and am mocking up things on the floor for my caliper mounts. It's proving to be a bit trickier than I'd planned (there was no planning) Can I remove the steering lock nubbin (it conflicts with where an adaptor might go) and instead incorporate it into the back of my actual adaptor? Also, not really necessary BUT in the photo you can see the caliper mounting flangie poking the middle of my caliper. Could I cut this off and drill/tap a new hole in the cast iron further in? It's all similar material thickness etc.

I was surprised to read (I think on the lvvta forum) that the exhaust only needs to vent away from the PASSENGER compartment.. The question was specifically about a ute and he was told he could dump under the car if he desires. Maybe in your situation this would also be ok

You need a decent thickness of JB weld though. In this situation you'd have bugger all jbweld left (just a few threads after the thread is formed

Yeah but if you are taking it apart you may as well do it with propper insert

The problem is swarf falling in. Tapping braze makes the worst kind (it's like sand)

I always found it weird that they wouldnt wash the exterior of their building. Was nice when built then just went dirty green

Lol. Spark plug thread repair kit. Rrp $49.99 Contents: 1x foil square.

I'm not worthy

25 Piece Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit M14 x 1.25 http://s.aliexpress.com/2qM7bIjY (from AliExpress Android) They have Ali express in nz!

I'm curious as to how you ensured correct location of the motor in relation to the box? Cool project!

Yeah. Gauge plate is 01 tool steel. I can tell you that after a bit of heat it ends up EXTREMELY hard. (Don't get components laser cut out of gauge plate and then expect to file up the edges)

You should ask around for "gauge plate" offcuts. It's a nice ground constant thickness and can be hardened easily.

Just tap it out and if you fuck that up- drill and retap it a larger size lol

Finally got new front discs. A few things to do before front brakes are done- Machine hubcentric sleeve to center wheels and disk to hub (disk is a little too big in ID for the hubs spigot) Redrill disc PCD Draw adaptor plates for calipers and have laser cut.

Haha Muncie now you just gotta hope they for the right model of car

See Greg for carpets.